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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

Old 07-15-2009, 07:27 PM
  #406  
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Hello Jilles,

I am making the transition from 13.5 to Modified here in the U.S. with my 416.

How much drag brake do you run on your speedo, and do you make any adjustments on your radio to make the car more driveable? (I race sometimes @ SpeedWorld in Roseville, where you were for the '08 Reedy Race)

I'm literally squeezing the trigger maybe 20% through the infield and only getting to crack it full down the straight.

Also, when you ran the Reedy Race... did you have any rebound on your shocks?

Good luck in your upcoming races!
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:51 PM
  #407  
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Hey Jilles....regarding tire scrubbing with the green dishwashing stuff...in your opinion what is the main driving charateristics that you will see of scrubbed tires and unscrubbed tires? I have not tried scrubbed tires on my 416 yet and during the TITC, i only used the green stuff to scrubbed off the center mold parting lines and that was about it. i always thought the new shiny tire surface would give better traction....
Thanks!
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:55 AM
  #408  
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all the best at Andernach

wont be there got some other stuff to do and my TRF is in pieces after a slight crash
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:49 AM
  #409  
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Sorry to hijack this tread

have seen Craig M. the new Photon sponsored driver floating around.

Hope he is thinking of coming back to the blue side.

But i doubt it as TRF is not supported here in OZ nor do the importer for that matter.

It a shame Cause there is now at least 8 416 driving in stock at our club out of a field of 12


Sorry Mc phee
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:25 AM
  #410  
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Jilles,

Thank you for your shock building video on RedRC, it was very informative. A couple of questions about shocks:

1. What plastic parts do you guys generally use, and why? There's two different ones I see:
53918 - TRF V parts, Low Friction (gray)
53334 - V parts, Low Friction (black)

I think the WE kit comes with 53334? Any particular reason you'd use one over the other?

2. I see you were using the aluminum retainers on your shocks? Is that 49311, or the "1mm down type" like 53876?

3. (non-shock related) Do you know the part number of the low-friction sway bar ends you guys use?

Thanks!
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:14 AM
  #411  
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For every1's sake here's the video.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:16 AM
  #412  
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Thanks for the Video Jilles, really interesting... and nice to see I've been doing it mostly right all these years

One thing I'm intrigured with, is how you measure your shocks. I'm not saying I'm right, but I use a slightly different method. Ever since I started messing with rebound (on your recommendation in fact ), I've always measured the distance (with the piston rod fully extended) between the bottom of the shock body and the top of the lower ball joint. I find it ensures that the ball joints are all screwed in the same amount, helping for more consistent rebound build. So effectively I've set the shock length before even filling it with oil. I've found 12mm to be a good figure for that. Thoughts?

Looking forward to the rest of the tips

Cheers
Ed
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:40 AM
  #413  
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great vidio look forward to seeing th erest

also i now know what is ment by rebound

as i mentioned before this tread is new to me but what a great resource it is for the 416 racer or for any racer settinfg there car

and i still havent got trough all the pages

Also thanks to ED or Mr Tryhard i have trold trough your site over the last week i ihave learnt more here than i have since i started last november

Great service Thanks guys

best of luck todat Jiles
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Senna Racing
have seen Craig M. the new Photon sponsored driver floating around.

Hope he is thinking of coming back to the blue side.
yep I lurk in here and the 416 thread, partly because I have a lot of experience with the car and partly because Jilles' wealth of knowledge is hugely useful no matter what car you drive - without it I might not have the TOP drive If the oz tamiya importer ever decides to have a team then I'll be back, until then the 416 sits on the shelf with its trophies

Good luck in Andernach Jilles, another ETS series in the bag I think!
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Old 07-17-2009, 12:27 PM
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Jilles,

If you were to measure camber with a typical camber square (shown below) on your actual race wheels/tires, how would you go about dealing with suspension/bearing slack?

Would you push the bottom of the tires in towards eachother to simulate force on outside tire while cornering, or would you pull the bottom of the tires out away from eachother to simulate the force on an inside tire?

Thanks in advance! This came up in another thread, but my question went unaswered...

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Old 07-18-2009, 03:51 AM
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sorry for the double post
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Old 07-18-2009, 03:51 AM
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Just finished building My shocks thanks for the Vid.. looking forward to to the others

Final finish going trough all your tips i have pick up so much really looking forward to the start of our winter point score in a field of 7-8 416's i hope that this tread will give me some what of a edge


Thanks
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:19 PM
  #418  
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Default lower deck

Hi


what chassis you use because on the pictures we see that the battery is less forward on the 416we chassis


the 1st 416 lower deck item;9404856
or
TRF 416 lower deck (2.5mmTHICK) limited item;49495
or
special !



thank

Dimitri
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:43 PM
  #419  
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Hi Jilles,
A bit off topic...do you also run less shock rebound on your nitro?

Last edited by IQ0; 07-19-2009 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 07-19-2009, 03:08 AM
  #420  
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Default Question about shock building

Hi Jilles,

Thanks for the shock building video. One question about the step where you place the bladder and cap on top and close up the shocks:

In my manual (TA05-R), the directions say to have the shaft/piston all the way at the bottom of the shock body before placing the bladder on top and closing the cap of the shock, but in your video I see that you've got the piston just slightly below the top of the shock before you put the bladder on and cap it off.

I've currently built the shocks per the manual's instructions, but would like to know what the benefit would be to do it per the method you employed in your instructional video.

Thanks!
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