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Old 06-28-2009, 11:54 PM   #361
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Hy Jilles,
congrats for your win yesterday at the Efra GP in Luxembourg and thanks for your help around the 3 days

a really nice guy who lives his passion

regards Tom
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:35 AM   #362
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hi jilles,
i want to ask question about camber change and roll center.
when we add spacer under the rear upperlink on the bulkhead side, it is lowering rear RC, thus increases rear traction.
but it also reduces camber change, which means reducing rear traction, isn't it?
so, which one has greater effect to the rear traction?
and if i want to increase rear traction, should i lower the RC or increase camber change?
thanks before.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:10 AM   #363
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Congratulations to Jilles for another impressive win for the Tamiya Team!
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Old 06-29-2009, 12:25 PM   #364
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Congratulations Jilles, you are a machine.
Xray T4 2016 ~ ORCA Vrita VX3 ~ Speedzone 7.5
Xray T4 2016 ~ ORCA Vrita VX3 ~ Speedzone 13.5
Xray X12 2016 ~ ORCA Vritra VX3 ~ Speedzone 10.5

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Old 06-29-2009, 01:17 PM   #365
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That's awesome
Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects.

AE 12R5.1,Tekin RS PRO
17.5 super stock T.O.P PHOTON , TAMIYA M05 Mini
CEFX.. High Velocity Racing Motor
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Old 06-29-2009, 01:42 PM   #366
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Hi Jilles

I was wondering would Tamiya be producing those setup books like those done by X-Ray?

I think it would be very helpful for Tamiya racers in general.
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Old 06-29-2009, 02:16 PM   #367
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Download the HUDY set-up book, it applies for all touring cars, but obviously uses Xray's for pictures.
RC America|EA Motorsports|ORCA
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:36 AM   #368
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Jilles, congratulations on your win!

I wondered about the 0 rebound on your shock setting. I heard some people using what is called a dual stage damper. It uses holes on the top hat and the bladder as a valve to create 0 rebound initially, then rebound is increased on the rest of the stroke. Have you heard about anything like this?
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:33 AM   #369
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As I explained in previous posts, I never run the sponge in the shock.
Also in Pro Stock I recommend very little rebound in the shocks.
It's better to have you car balanced with adding 20gr.

I think 1435 is not too bad.
We are normally around 1400 with a light weight body, Titanium screws.
Shorten the wires as much as possible, that for sure helps the weight.
See you in Andernach!

Most parts I replace ones in a while are drive-shafts, drive shaft blades, belts,
Suspension Ball, spool outdrives, every big race I also renew the plastic parts.
Diff plates, diff thrust bearing.

I know, it's hard to get it out undamaged. I normally cut it with a knife and put new ones in.

Try to use C / C blocks in front to gain more steering.

Thanks! It was pretty good last weekend!
See you soon!

Don't ask to complicated questions!
I normally use 4mm shim under the bulkhead and 3mm under the suspension block. WHen I want to change the rollcenter I always do that by changing it under the arms. I have found that 4mm(bulkhead) and 3mm(susp.block) spacer in the rear always works best in any condition.

Carking,Skitee, GoingFast,
Thanks for the compliments!

Might be a good idea! So far I haven't seen it.

We normally drill a hole in the top to reduce the rebound almost to 0.
Because the air between the bladder and the plastic can go out.
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Old 07-02-2009, 04:46 AM   #370
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Jilles do you set your timming on your 3.5 speed passion motor? i have 3.0 motor can you give me a recomended FDR for 5 cells, i running on hot humid temp around 30-40 deg celcius thanks
Freq:29.945, car no:29, W.A.R.C.M.C.C, http://projectm-design.blogspot.com/
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Old 07-02-2009, 05:29 AM   #371
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Hey Jilles, and everyone..
This thread is really awsome thanks!

I have just ordered a speed passion 6.5turn v2 with the intension of running it with lipo.
With possible timing advance on the ESC i am expecting it to get fairly hot, and am wondering what the best thing to do with the rotor is:
It hasn't arrived here yet so i don't know the size of the standard rotor but I am wondering if a 12.5mm is better. (if its 12.3mm std..)

I am also struggling to find out what the difference is between these two;
SP Rotor 3.5T; Euro R Hi Power 12.5mm,
SP Rotor 4.5T; Standard 12.5mm.
Which rotor would be best to upgrade to, if any of these two?

Also will the internal fan on the rotor be useful or would i be better taking it off for these requirements..?

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Old 07-02-2009, 03:27 PM   #372
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Hey Jilles

Firstly, congrats once again on your recent results, well done! Its great to see another Tamiya driver doing well

Secondly i'm after some advice again please.

I have been running your DHI carpet setup at my local track using sorex 28's on a fast sweeping track to great effect, but we have recently changed to a tighter track with lots of hairpins and changes in direction and my lap times have dropped off the pace by almost half a second a lap!!!!!

I need some suggestions on what to change as everything i try seems to make matters worse at the moment rather than better!

I have the speed on the straight but seem to just have to wait to get on the power too long on the tight corners.

Should I look at roll centre changes or go for something more extreme like spring rates

Please help!

Cheers in advance

Schumacher UK
EA Motorsports www.teameamotorsports.com
Team EAM
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Old 07-04-2009, 02:01 PM   #373
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Thank's Jilles
Today I tried no rebound in shock and results is great. Car have great balance when i put 20gr on the right site. And i won the Pro Stock class on the event in my country. So many thanks.
And what do you think about put receiver on the rear right site of the car. I can easier make perfect balance with out put the 20g on the right.
Blazej Orlowski
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Old 07-05-2009, 02:44 AM   #374
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I think for 5 cells a 3.0T motor is too much, you will have difficulties to make
5min. I suggest timing back to C and a FDR of 9.0
For a 3.5 I normally use FDR between 7.7 and 8.5 with timing between B and C.

All the team always use 12.5 rotor, this is the best compromise.
The Euro Edition 12.5 is little more effecient then the normal 12.5.
Only when it's really hot I use a coolfan on the rotor but most of the time without coolfan.

You can try 1mm rollcenter in the rear for better rotation.
1C/1C blocks in front for more steering in the short corner.
Also look around what bodies the fast guys are running, as for example the LTC-R body might have a small advantage on small technical tracks.

Great to hear! For balance I think it's a good idea to put the receiver on the otherside. The only negative thing is all the wires going across the belts and so on.

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Old 07-06-2009, 01:23 AM   #375
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I quess you are a great fan of the Awesomatix car!
You can not imagine how happy I am to be a part of the TRF team.
This was a dream come true for me to be racing and working for Tamiya.

The best of luck with your Awesomatix car!

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