"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
#241
Sorry guys for a little delay on my replies!
Manu 05,
I never have this problem so I really never tested to get more on power steering. My advice is go to 5mm droop in front or try thicker front shockoil.
Andre,
Thanks!
There are very little fulltime racers around the planet.
I work for Tamiya as a racer but not fulltime.
If you want to become a fulltime racer you should get good results first and then hopefully someone is willing to give you an opportunaty, it's not easy to earn some money from this "Hobby".
Phil,
The 416 WE is ready to run and no need for any option parts. If you build it with my starting set-up for asphalt it should work fine.
On asphalt no rebound works very good.
Joel,
The TA-05 is a great car to drive around. Very easy to drive and not much maintenance. The 416 is quicker on the track and has better cornerspeed.
EJ20,
When you feel your shocks are not the same as the previous practise you should rebuild them, not every run.
WHen it's more hot I suggest thicker oil, 500 is very soft, try 600 or even more thick when it's hot.
Drcy,
Hard to say which tyres you should use overthere. I quess it's pretty hot overthere so Sorex 36 is not a bad choice.
Try my basic asphalt set-up. I think the new SP version 2 speedo is a lot better then version 1, don't know about the GM ones.
Wow, that you still remember that from the Euros in Austria in 2003!
Overgear,
Can't really say why zero rebound is better, it feels better on the track, makes it more stable. 94EG already answer the other question.
IQ0,
For my Nosram speedo I use normally programs : 2,4,1,1
Keith,
Sometimes I use tyretweak just on it's own, sometimes after tyretweak I dry the tyre and apply some regular additive like, CS yellow, FX2 for a couple of minutes and then make the tyre dry.
Jilles
Manu 05,
I never have this problem so I really never tested to get more on power steering. My advice is go to 5mm droop in front or try thicker front shockoil.
Andre,
Thanks!
There are very little fulltime racers around the planet.
I work for Tamiya as a racer but not fulltime.
If you want to become a fulltime racer you should get good results first and then hopefully someone is willing to give you an opportunaty, it's not easy to earn some money from this "Hobby".
Phil,
The 416 WE is ready to run and no need for any option parts. If you build it with my starting set-up for asphalt it should work fine.
On asphalt no rebound works very good.
Joel,
The TA-05 is a great car to drive around. Very easy to drive and not much maintenance. The 416 is quicker on the track and has better cornerspeed.
EJ20,
When you feel your shocks are not the same as the previous practise you should rebuild them, not every run.
WHen it's more hot I suggest thicker oil, 500 is very soft, try 600 or even more thick when it's hot.
Drcy,
Hard to say which tyres you should use overthere. I quess it's pretty hot overthere so Sorex 36 is not a bad choice.
Try my basic asphalt set-up. I think the new SP version 2 speedo is a lot better then version 1, don't know about the GM ones.
Wow, that you still remember that from the Euros in Austria in 2003!
Overgear,
Can't really say why zero rebound is better, it feels better on the track, makes it more stable. 94EG already answer the other question.
IQ0,
For my Nosram speedo I use normally programs : 2,4,1,1
Keith,
Sometimes I use tyretweak just on it's own, sometimes after tyretweak I dry the tyre and apply some regular additive like, CS yellow, FX2 for a couple of minutes and then make the tyre dry.
Jilles
#242
Tech Adept
ThX for your answer Jilles,
it's very kind of your part!!
my last question...
What is for your the best servo for 1/10 touring car electro between the 2365 and the 2413 ?
Regards,
Manu
it's very kind of your part!!
my last question...
What is for your the best servo for 1/10 touring car electro between the 2365 and the 2413 ?
Regards,
Manu
#243
i have built it and ready for its first weekend of testing before the ETS at apeldoorn
See you there , cola's on me
#244
Tech Initiate
Hi jilles
How do you look after your NIMH cells? do you have like a routine you could share with us...discharging and charging?
cheers
How do you look after your NIMH cells? do you have like a routine you could share with us...discharging and charging?
cheers
#245
Hi Jilles
Can you write part number of HB sillver springs which you use in the Worlds set up?
Thank'
Can you write part number of HB sillver springs which you use in the Worlds set up?
Thank'
#246
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
HPI Silver springs are part #6543. The Blues are also a good idea to have (#6542)
Jilles,
I am using your base asphalt setup, but with HPI silver front and blue rear springs, and 400wt oil (ambient temps around 23 deg C). The car handles very well overall, however I notice through quick direction changes it can be a bit taily. Can you suggest something I could try to correct this?
thanks
Jilles,
I am using your base asphalt setup, but with HPI silver front and blue rear springs, and 400wt oil (ambient temps around 23 deg C). The car handles very well overall, however I notice through quick direction changes it can be a bit taily. Can you suggest something I could try to correct this?
thanks
#247
hi jilles
what's your set up going to be for ETS Apeldoorn ??
bit cheaky but i gotta ask
what's your set up going to be for ETS Apeldoorn ??
bit cheaky but i gotta ask
#248
Thank's Craig
sidecarphil1 see you soon on the ETS Are you driving in Pro Stock?
sidecarphil1 see you soon on the ETS Are you driving in Pro Stock?
Last edited by orzel24; 05-18-2009 at 06:24 AM.
#249
Manu,
Well, I like the 2413 because it's small and light.
At the moment I use the 2365 because it has little more kg, makes the car little smoother to drive and keeps the steering better over the 2413.
Oke Phil! Meet you at the ETS!
Green Speed,
When I come on the track I discharge my cells individual till 0.9V I charge them and after my run I leave them till next practise run. If you are not using them for longer then a week it's better to charge them a little bit ( 500mAh).
CraigM,
I suggest to try little harder shockoil in front or 100W thicker overall.
Jilles
Well, I like the 2413 because it's small and light.
At the moment I use the 2365 because it has little more kg, makes the car little smoother to drive and keeps the steering better over the 2413.
Oke Phil! Meet you at the ETS!
Green Speed,
When I come on the track I discharge my cells individual till 0.9V I charge them and after my run I leave them till next practise run. If you are not using them for longer then a week it's better to charge them a little bit ( 500mAh).
CraigM,
I suggest to try little harder shockoil in front or 100W thicker overall.
Jilles
#250
and yes i'm driving pro stock
please be gentle it is my first and my first season racing touring cars so i'm learning , but i think this will be a big learning curve
think there is 6 of my local club drivers driving at the ETS
#251
Tech Initiate
Hi Jilles,
Changed the car setting according to your advised and had a test on track last Saturday. The car turns a lot more aggressive than using the D/D block. However, the tail had a bit loose when in the double S corner and had no time to try to raise the real shock one step to improve it. What you will change to correct it? Thank you.
Sunny
Changed the car setting according to your advised and had a test on track last Saturday. The car turns a lot more aggressive than using the D/D block. However, the tail had a bit loose when in the double S corner and had no time to try to raise the real shock one step to improve it. What you will change to correct it? Thank you.
Sunny
#252
Yep, you will learn a lot I think this is the best series in Europe. Oh i'm impatient See you on the track.
#253
Hi Jiles.
In your basic set-up you metioned to put 0.5mm in the front rear block, is this on top of the 3mm spacer (for flipped blocks) required by the manual?
Thanks.
In your basic set-up you metioned to put 0.5mm in the front rear block, is this on top of the 3mm spacer (for flipped blocks) required by the manual?
Thanks.
#254
For the flipped blocks, it would have to go under the 3mm spacer. Between the 3mm spacer and carbon chassis...
#255
Sunny,
This is the difference between D/D and C/C.
Try the shocks more up next time.
Badboy,
Yes, instead of using 3mm spacer you add 0,5mm more under the block.
Jilles
This is the difference between D/D and C/C.
Try the shocks more up next time.
Badboy,
Yes, instead of using 3mm spacer you add 0,5mm more under the block.
Jilles