Originally Posted by CraigM
Hi Jilles, a couple questions regarding ESCs
When you started this thread you said your settings for the pearl v1 were...
but more recently you used these settings at TITC...
What is the reason for the big difference in power program, is it simply because you've changed motor brands?
Also do you find the top end similar even though profile 5 has more timing? do you just gear up?
And finally, why did you decide to use the v1 rather than the v2? I run one too as I've heard that it is smoother, however I have some events coming up (State Titles and FEMCA race) on tracks with 50m+ straights so I'm wondering if I should get a v2 for these events.
p.s. Will you be attending the FEMCA race in Sydney in September?
Craig, at TITC I ran very low power profile as the new Orion motor has a lot more power and torque. Also the track was not that big and the tyres were not that good to use all the power. I always liked the V1 more over the V2. V2 doesn't feel as smooth. Since last month I have been using the new R10 Orion speedo only.
I'm not sure about the FEMCA race as the Tamiya Asia Cup finals are the same weekend.
Originally Posted by VooDooPH
just wanted to ask if you have tips on selecting rims? like i noticed the yokomo rims have taller and thicker center ribs compared to the tamiya dish wheels... are there handling characteristics for each type?
Any wheels has it one characteristics. Nowadays we only use control tyre, inserts and wheels so I'm not really looking in this anymore. Difficult to say what rim should work best, as conditions are different all the time. Soft rims for low traction. Medium rim for high traction, I never liked the really hard rims.
Originally Posted by Tron
I think it's great you are back on this thread regular
When you say more camber do you mean more + camber like I have in my setup sheet or more negative camber like traditional setup shows, like -1.5/-2?
With the setup I posted I had zero traction roll issues, actually the car was a tad pushy but I was able to finish very well without incident. When I had the cambers at -1.5 front and -2.0 rear I had traction roll problem even with inner links at 5mm and 4mm
Thanks again I appreciate it.
Thanks! I mean more negative camber. Funny you have more traction roll problem. Maybe the tyres, rims are different?
Originally Posted by shikakae123
Want to ask,how does using the split suspension mount help as compared to the normal suspension mount?Does it give more flex for traction or what?
We have tested this many time and actually I like the one piece suspension mounts better. It feels like more traction. We experiment with the split blocks some times as it was easier with the belt taking out.
I recommend to use one piece.
Originally Posted by UrabusDenis
That would be very useful !
A question - how do you charge your LiPOs to get maximum battery life ? Obviously , at big events you get factory LiPOs and you don't have to care about it's life , but how with how many amps do you charge the batteries you own ?
Honestly I do believe you can charge the Lipo till 20A easy without damage the Lipo. Ofcourse lower rate will have more lifetime, but then you need to buy some new ones anyway as Lipo's improve all the time.
I charge 15A while running both stock and modified.
Originally Posted by theoneandonly
There are so many kinds of tryes techniques.How do you know which works best?Do you test them all everytime you go to a new track?And what if you have a time limit?How do you tackle the best possible situation?
When do you cook the tryes?And when do you not?
Ofcourse out of experience you bring the most regular tyre additives. From there you check the pits what others are using. Are they using thick or thin, they use tyre warmer? If we go to an event with no experience the team try all different so you can easily see what direction you need to go.
Cooking tyres is normally when the tyre has not too much traction and have also overheating problems. But if you have time, don't bother too much about set-up, tyres and additives are most important.
Originally Posted by Blueman Austria
First of all Thanks for your time you spend on this thread!
I have a few questions:
.) Can you explain the differences in the handling of the car using the outer/inner chamber link possitions?
.) How would you say differs the setup of the car when you race it in 17,5 0-Boost spec class? Would you say that there are fix points in the setup that you would change in advance compared to your modified setups?
.) I wich range do you use shock oil (from-to) on asphalt and carpet, and if you have a good setup for a track, do you run always the same shock oil in colder and hotter condition or does the track temperatur also affect the oil choice?
.) When you talk about steering full lock, what do you mean exactly? The steering knukle touches the c hub slightly, or do you always use a bit space between? how have you trimmed the dual rate on your sanwa on full steering? 100% or 125% or 150%
Thanks in advance!
- Inner camberlink pos - has more stability, and cornerspeed, less reaction
- outer camberlink po - less stability, little more steering, more reaction
I think 17.5T you can use harder spring then modified. You might run little harder oil in 17.5T as well. Modified is all about keep the wheels on the ground so with softer set-up you make the car more driveable.
Shock oil on carpet is always around 500W. For asphalt I suggest between 600 - 400, depends on track temp and tyre/asphalt.
When I mean full lock the steeringblock is about 1mm from the c-hub.
Originally Posted by CLK@racing
My 417 understeers in mid corners.
Does setting more drag brake gives you more overall steering?
When do you increase and decrease the drag brake?
Dragbrake is a good tool to get more steering. More dragbrake is more steering, but more motor temp and more difficult to drive perfect line.
Originally Posted by srw_g
I'd like to see how to attach the body shell and wings perfectly. Would you please share some tips in the new video?
My current questions are as below:
1. Hard to find/drill the holes on body and wing accurately;
2. How to cut the body and wing to follow the IFMAR spec perfectly?
3. It is said that the body postion forward or backward about 5mm can show different performance. Is it the key point to notice when attaching the body?
Thank you very much!
1. Experience, even after hunderds of bodies I still make a mistake sometimes. Practise body I first make holes and then I paint.
2. I always cut within the rules by using a muchmore tool with helps you check the roof height, wing size, wing height etc.
3. I always run my body slightly forward. If you made already a body that ran well, you can always copy the same holes on your new body by placing the old body over the new one and simply use a marker for the bodyposts.
Originally Posted by jonest
Good luck at ETS Netherlands!
Originally Posted by Robert_K
I would like to see a vid about tire prep.
A small question. I'm searching for more cornerspeed and I'm looking at my set-up. I've raised the turbuckels at the inside of my bulkheads for more cornerspeed and less chassis roll. But what about the suspension arms. When I'll raise al four the arms wil it give me more or less cornerspeed?
Tot in Apeldoorn!
I always feel while raising the suspension arms I get less traction but more cornerspeed. So if you want to try it, there must be enough traction.
But in theory, if you raise the arms you should raise the camberlink with the same about of shims. See you in Apeldoorn.
Originally Posted by marcel p
raise the arm gives more cornerspeed if the grip is there.
jiles or others coreckt me if im wrong
but that should be right. lol