"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors
#136
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Here is my actual setup
Madzaspeed
Sorex 36R with CS Tire-Max Grip heated to 60°
No screw on the topdeck for steering
Front:
Blocks: C - C
Camper: 2°
0,5mm Antidive
0,5mm wheel spacer
5mm height
Damper: 400er tamiya oil
white springs Tamiya
3-hole plates
2nd hole from inside on damper bridge
Rear:
Blocks: XA - E
Camber: 2°
0,5mm Rollcenter
1mm wheel spacer
5,5mm height
Damper: 400er tamiya oil
blue springs Tamiya
3-hole plates
5th hole from inside on damper bridge
a lot of stuff but I hope you can help me
Felix
Madzaspeed
Sorex 36R with CS Tire-Max Grip heated to 60°
No screw on the topdeck for steering
Front:
Blocks: C - C
Camper: 2°
0,5mm Antidive
0,5mm wheel spacer
5mm height
Damper: 400er tamiya oil
white springs Tamiya
3-hole plates
2nd hole from inside on damper bridge
Rear:
Blocks: XA - E
Camber: 2°
0,5mm Rollcenter
1mm wheel spacer
5,5mm height
Damper: 400er tamiya oil
blue springs Tamiya
3-hole plates
5th hole from inside on damper bridge
a lot of stuff but I hope you can help me
Felix
#137
Tech Initiate
The next time I will try the basic rubber Setup. I'm sure it works better than mine
Jilles,
do you always use a 2mm spacer for the front suspension arm? In the basic setup from the manual it's written with 1,5mm. Do 2mm work better or is it just better for modified ? (I'm running 9.5)
Is it correct that you raised the rollcenter by adding more spacers on the bulkheads?
thaaaanks
Felix
Jilles,
do you always use a 2mm spacer for the front suspension arm? In the basic setup from the manual it's written with 1,5mm. Do 2mm work better or is it just better for modified ? (I'm running 9.5)
Is it correct that you raised the rollcenter by adding more spacers on the bulkheads?
thaaaanks
Felix
#139
Felix,
2mm or 1,5mm is a very small differents, you might try 2mm and then 1mm to feel the differents.
Jonest,
At the TITC we used Paragon Fx2
At the LRP masters we had to use as a control additive the LRP carpet 2 which works really good on the LRP tyre.
Normally on carpet we use either LRP carpet 2 or CS yellow.
For carpet I never use tyre warmer, apply the additive around 20min in the rear and 10min in front. If you still have too much steering I can advice to apply additive shorter time on the front.
FX2 at the TITC also without tyre warmer and for 5-10min.
Always wipe off the tyre so it's completely dry going on the track.
Jilles
2mm or 1,5mm is a very small differents, you might try 2mm and then 1mm to feel the differents.
Jonest,
At the TITC we used Paragon Fx2
At the LRP masters we had to use as a control additive the LRP carpet 2 which works really good on the LRP tyre.
Normally on carpet we use either LRP carpet 2 or CS yellow.
For carpet I never use tyre warmer, apply the additive around 20min in the rear and 10min in front. If you still have too much steering I can advice to apply additive shorter time on the front.
FX2 at the TITC also without tyre warmer and for 5-10min.
Always wipe off the tyre so it's completely dry going on the track.
Jilles
#140
How much of the front tire do you dope?
#141
Tech Master
#142
#144
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Given I'm running LiPo, thats where I have about 20g of weight stashed, helps to get the weight forward.
I also was originally runnig a Ti/Alu screw kit, but I switched out all the ti under chassis screws for the standard steel ones, as it get the weight nice and low, and also means you don't have to add extra weight around. It's not much, but it all helps to get the weight low
HiH
Ed
#145
#146
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
I'll chime in a gain as well...
Given I'm running LiPo, thats where I have about 20g of weight stashed, helps to get the weight forward.
I also was originally runnig a Ti/Alu screw kit, but I switched out all the ti under chassis screws for the standard steel ones, as it get the weight nice and low, and also means you don't have to add extra weight around. It's not much, but it all helps to get the weight low
HiH
Ed
Given I'm running LiPo, thats where I have about 20g of weight stashed, helps to get the weight forward.
I also was originally runnig a Ti/Alu screw kit, but I switched out all the ti under chassis screws for the standard steel ones, as it get the weight nice and low, and also means you don't have to add extra weight around. It's not much, but it all helps to get the weight low
HiH
Ed
#147
Hi Jilles
Question about SP Motor. What timing do you use on carpet/asphalt track on 3.5 and 4.0 motors?
And what gearing you propose for 4.0T/5 cells on fast asphalt tracks?
Thank's
Question about SP Motor. What timing do you use on carpet/asphalt track on 3.5 and 4.0 motors?
And what gearing you propose for 4.0T/5 cells on fast asphalt tracks?
Thank's
#150
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Well, since you brought up the technique of putting ballast at various heights on the chassis - which was never in play in this thread - I'll be more specific:
Where you put ballast on the lower chassis plate does _not_ affect weight transfer. It permanently affects weight distribution.
Where you put ballast on the lower chassis plate does _not_ affect weight transfer. It permanently affects weight distribution.