TB-Evolution III vs. Yokomo SD
11-29-2003, 12:07 PM
#16
Tech Regular
not only the 415 but also the Evo4 in interest
11-29-2003, 12:12 PM
#17
Since I know the SD is Fragile my driving skills went better
11-29-2003, 12:13 PM
#18
Re: Re: SD!
Originally posted by trf racer
ive gone through less parts in a month then some for one race with sd.
once a bloke broke a wishbone every heat anf finall on his brokomo running stock.
i was running 12t limit and didnt once brake anything.
ive gone through less parts in a month then some for one race with sd.
once a bloke broke a wishbone every heat anf finall on his brokomo running stock.
i was running 12t limit and didnt once brake anything.
I am also sure that your racing experience has alot to do with your minimal breakage. And Yes, I truly believe that Tamiya is a well made product but, if I can't get spare parts?
For me, once I have more experience and do not break as much then I would look into an Evo, 415, R2, or R3.
11-29-2003, 12:13 PM
#19
Originally posted by utieh
Since I know the SD is Fragile my driving skills went better
Since I know the SD is Fragile my driving skills went better
11-29-2003, 12:18 PM
#21
Originally posted by racenut123
Hey Tricklosi,where do you race?You Know Jaime manzanilla?
Sd for sure.I owned the evo3 Surikarn and for the price a SSG sd is a better choice and a more reliable car.My Rayspeed Sd is just like an evo3 in the way it drives except I dont wonder 2 minutes into my heat if my drivetrain will start locking up do to a stripped front gear because I decided that I actually wanted to squeeze the throttle trigger.I dont have to worry between heat if I will be able to rebuild my front oneway in time before my next heat or main.Or I dont have to spend upward of 12 dollars a race day just for new front oneway gears!
Hey Tricklosi,where do you race?You Know Jaime manzanilla?
Sd for sure.I owned the evo3 Surikarn and for the price a SSG sd is a better choice and a more reliable car.My Rayspeed Sd is just like an evo3 in the way it drives except I dont wonder 2 minutes into my heat if my drivetrain will start locking up do to a stripped front gear because I decided that I actually wanted to squeeze the throttle trigger.I dont have to worry between heat if I will be able to rebuild my front oneway in time before my next heat or main.Or I dont have to spend upward of 12 dollars a race day just for new front oneway gears!
11-29-2003, 12:48 PM
#22
Come on guys..the yokomo sd is no more fragile then the TC3 or Losi xxxs.Either that or you guys breaking are a bunch of hacks or beginners and break because they they dont drive the car.I am not trying to say the evo3 has no potential.Its an awsome car!If tamiya would have fixed the issues,well it would be a different story for me.Matter of fact if you run Mod with a front ball diff instead,its all good! But I run a car with a oneway most of the time so at the urging of one of Tamiyas former factory drivers,Both of my evo3 s had to go.Anyways continue to take cracks at the sd.And when your oneway gear strips and this causes other issues during your heat,make sure to come see me after your last lap because I will have already finshed in front of you.
11-29-2003, 02:56 PM
#23
Tech Addict
For sure, if youre a beginner, you don't want to go with neither with a SD nor an Evo3 as you'll be fed up with brekages (those being either arms on the SD or gears on the Evo).
For the Evo3, the square gear boxes helps fixing the problem a lot, and Jurgen's one way (he also makes a spool) as well as Penguin RC plate. Also the Evo as well as the 414 are bullet proof (hardly break an arm) but you can bend a hinge pin and this is vicious as you don't know why you're car's not going well.
For the SD, the graphite arms helps but you still can break them (only on a heavy impact, which arrived me last week end, but I also already broke an arm on my 414 so...). I think the problem is in the moulding so for the problem to be fixed they should make a new mold. You can also bend hinge pins, but as this usually goes along with a broken arm you notice it. About C-Hubs I've never broken any, must be because I have the Suzuki aluminium steering, which prevents from loosing any king pin and thus the C-Hub. Other parts to break I don't see, and anyway I didn't, but I rarely have big crashes.
For the Evo3, the square gear boxes helps fixing the problem a lot, and Jurgen's one way (he also makes a spool) as well as Penguin RC plate. Also the Evo as well as the 414 are bullet proof (hardly break an arm) but you can bend a hinge pin and this is vicious as you don't know why you're car's not going well.
For the SD, the graphite arms helps but you still can break them (only on a heavy impact, which arrived me last week end, but I also already broke an arm on my 414 so...). I think the problem is in the moulding so for the problem to be fixed they should make a new mold. You can also bend hinge pins, but as this usually goes along with a broken arm you notice it. About C-Hubs I've never broken any, must be because I have the Suzuki aluminium steering, which prevents from loosing any king pin and thus the C-Hub. Other parts to break I don't see, and anyway I didn't, but I rarely have big crashes.
11-29-2003, 03:04 PM
#24
i'm a newbie, i hit a ton of boards but I don't break very much at all. BTW, I have an Evo 3 Surikarn. The only problem i have is my LHS doens't carry a lot of the parts for it, and Tamiya doesn't always have the parts in stock either. I've stripped the front one way 2x now, but other than that I still keep on going.
The cost of an Evo 3 Surikarn is STILL way cheaper than a rayspeed SD!!
I just wish Tamiya would focus on one or 2 cars at a time, and not put out a dozen per year!!
Ronin - SAVAGE 25 !!!! LOL
The cost of an Evo 3 Surikarn is STILL way cheaper than a rayspeed SD!!
I just wish Tamiya would focus on one or 2 cars at a time, and not put out a dozen per year!!
Ronin - SAVAGE 25 !!!! LOL
Last edited by hierog; 11-29-2003 at 04:27 PM.
11-29-2003, 04:20 PM
#25
Originally posted by hierog
i'm a newbie, i hit a ton of boards but I don't break very much at all. BTW, I have an Evo 3 Surikarn. The only problem i have is my LHS doens't carry a lot of the parts for it, and Tamiya doesn't always have the parts in stock either. I've stripped the front one way 2x now, but other than that I still keep on going.
The cost of an Evo 3 Surikarn is STILL way cheaper than a rayspeed SD!!
I just Tamiya would focus on one or 2 cars at a time, and not put out a dozen per year!!
Ronin - SAVAGE 25 !!!! LOL
i'm a newbie, i hit a ton of boards but I don't break very much at all. BTW, I have an Evo 3 Surikarn. The only problem i have is my LHS doens't carry a lot of the parts for it, and Tamiya doesn't always have the parts in stock either. I've stripped the front one way 2x now, but other than that I still keep on going.
The cost of an Evo 3 Surikarn is STILL way cheaper than a rayspeed SD!!
I just Tamiya would focus on one or 2 cars at a time, and not put out a dozen per year!!
Ronin - SAVAGE 25 !!!! LOL
Too late. Blue R2 on the way!
11-29-2003, 10:06 PM
#28
Tech Regular
I dont know what you guys are hitting the new sd is much stronger then there old belt drive car
as far as the evo3 its a good car but the oneway gear is a joke and tamiya changes cars like crazy
go with the yok sd
as far as the evo3 its a good car but the oneway gear is a joke and tamiya changes cars like crazy
go with the yok sd
11-29-2003, 11:36 PM
#29
regarding the toughness of each car,something WILL BREAK if u hit something else...
but i can atest that the Yok will break a little more than the Evo III.breakage is as easy to solve as ur LHS stocks the parts.dont run any car that u dont feel confident to speed and push further.
in fact i have not broken ANY 1-way gear after 3 months of driving.i really need to have a chat with those who break the gears like breakfast(they claim).
HOWEVER , the person who is now driving my Evo III is having those problems.
I have driven the Evo III against yok's and in terms of speed there is nothing between them.
the extra stiffness of the SD is a plus factor but not noticable on tarmac.
and believe it or not, I'm driving arguably the most fragile car out there, the FTTC3 and also,i rarely break anything.
it is the easiest to drive and i feel most confident in it.
Having said all that,
get the car where u can find replacements easily.tell the ppl who claim this car is faster or that car is slower : F!@k it.
Only a select few are really to be avoided and u will be safe with any other.
but i can atest that the Yok will break a little more than the Evo III.breakage is as easy to solve as ur LHS stocks the parts.dont run any car that u dont feel confident to speed and push further.
in fact i have not broken ANY 1-way gear after 3 months of driving.i really need to have a chat with those who break the gears like breakfast(they claim).
HOWEVER , the person who is now driving my Evo III is having those problems.
I have driven the Evo III against yok's and in terms of speed there is nothing between them.
the extra stiffness of the SD is a plus factor but not noticable on tarmac.
and believe it or not, I'm driving arguably the most fragile car out there, the FTTC3 and also,i rarely break anything.
it is the easiest to drive and i feel most confident in it.
Having said all that,
get the car where u can find replacements easily.tell the ppl who claim this car is faster or that car is slower : F!@k it.
Only a select few are really to be avoided and u will be safe with any other.
11-30-2003, 12:45 AM
#30
EVO3 has certain issues which will be addressed in EVO4... If you love Tamiya, then get the TRF415 while waiting for the EVO4...