9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
10-22-2011, 01:21 PM
#8386
Check ya servo and servo saver
If cars second hand check there isn't a bent hinge pin etc
If it's new the front left C-hub is normally tight on the king pin collars and binds the steering knuckle take a drill bit the right size and lightly ream the hole in the C-hub with drill bit by hand till the king pin collars slide in easily
10-23-2011, 01:02 PM
#8387
10-23-2011, 03:24 PM
#8388
Body
What is the best body for this car?
10-23-2011, 03:30 PM
#8390
body
I have 2 tracks,
1 is med to large outdoor, 17.5 blinky, rubber tires
2 is small to med, carpet 17.5 blinky, rubber tires.
Also looking for a gearing for this car. I have a 88 spur, with Tekin 17.5 redline motor.
1 is med to large outdoor, 17.5 blinky, rubber tires
2 is small to med, carpet 17.5 blinky, rubber tires.
Also looking for a gearing for this car. I have a 88 spur, with Tekin 17.5 redline motor.
10-23-2011, 03:34 PM
#8391
At my local track (DRCW in VAB) we started outdoors this year with 4.0, by the end of this season, some of the guys are running in the 3.2's with high-normal motor temps.
10-23-2011, 03:37 PM
#8392
Blinky start is around 4.0, boosted 6.0. Adjust based on temps and torque/rpm requirements. Check with some of the locals and see what FDR they're running.
At my local track (DRCW in VAB) we started outdoors this year with 4.0, by the end of this season, some of the guys are running in the 3.2's with high-normal motor temps.
At my local track (DRCW in VAB) we started outdoors this year with 4.0, by the end of this season, some of the guys are running in the 3.2's with high-normal motor temps.
10-23-2011, 03:43 PM
#8393
There's less than a 1/2 second split average lap time per driver between blinky and boosted at our track, so you can see that the blinky 17.5s are almost as fast as the boosted. I personally have run a P37 all summer and don't feel as though I'm giving up anything. I have as much grip and as much speed in blinky as anyone else out there, it's just my driving that sucks in an EPIC manner!
If you come for our Halloween race, you'll see what I mean.ETA: just checked my car, and I'm running 86/53 (3.25FDR) 4 dot insert X12 blinky Tekin, coming off the track at 180ish with ambient air temps at/near 100 this summer. I KNOW that there are cars geared a lot higher than mine, though! Now that it's getting cooler, might see some crazy rediculous FDRs, which may work, as long as you can carry the corner speed on the infield!
Last edited by Buckaroo; 10-23-2011 at 03:57 PM.
10-23-2011, 04:04 PM
#8394
car
ETA: What does 4 dot insert X12 blinky mean? I am running the Tekin Redline 17.5t motor. Should I gear it about the same?
10-23-2011, 04:12 PM
#8395
Minimal mechanical timing. X12s run VERY hot compared to all other motors (2S sweet spot seems to be between 170 and 200ish) and timing is controlled through small plastic inserts. The 4 dot insert = 27.5degrees, or basically zero/fully retarded.
Most motors today are built with the zero line being 30ish degrees of resident mechanical timing.
Most motors today are built with the zero line being 30ish degrees of resident mechanical timing.
10-25-2011, 06:52 PM
#8396
weight
What is the ideal weight for this car?
If I put the car on scales what should each side and end be?
If I put the car on scales what should each side and end be?
10-25-2011, 07:25 PM
#8397
. i used to waste a lot of time trying to balance out my car w/ scales/etc -- thinking about having more weight in the outside "sweeper" front tire but at the end of the day it really isn't worth it. things are just relative. making sure the car is balanced left to right is important -- and moving your speedo or battery in/out a few millimeters can really make a difference between adding additional unnecessary weight just to get the car to balance.instead of worrying about weight balance i'd ask the question - have you rebuilt your shocks recently (and replaced the o-rings)? this is WAY more important to getting your car to handle consistently.
