9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
11-05-2010, 09:24 PM
#6125
If you see anything I need to change on the car, please let me know. I will be ordering the rest of the stuff here soon.
Futaba 4PL
Futaba BLS551 steering
Tekin RS ESC and 17.5 motor
Thunder Power batteries
Thanks,
Chris
Futaba 4PL
Futaba BLS551 steering
Tekin RS ESC and 17.5 motor
Thunder Power batteries
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by Mangoats; 11-05-2010 at 09:53 PM.
11-05-2010, 10:23 PM
#6126
Also one of the benefits of the LiPo chassis is you can run the belts round the other way, more room for the electrics, and you probably won't need that lead weight side tray with a lipo.
For extras I just love the option alloy lipo brackets with velcro strap, some consider it bling, but I find it holds the battery in perfectly and makes changing so easy.
11-05-2010, 11:31 PM
#6127
^What Bishop said +
One of your rear A arms needs to be flipped over. You'll see the holes are staggered. On one side the first hole is closer to the end than the other.
Check how freely the spur and pulley assembly spin, you may need to shim the side of the layshaft that doesn't have the tab.
One of your rear A arms needs to be flipped over. You'll see the holes are staggered. On one side the first hole is closer to the end than the other.
Check how freely the spur and pulley assembly spin, you may need to shim the side of the layshaft that doesn't have the tab.
11-05-2010, 11:47 PM
#6129
Did you put some shims on the shock shafts when you built them?, you 'need' like a .2-.3mm shim or your shocks will click once built.
Also one of the benefits of the LiPo chassis is you can run the belts round the other way, more room for the electrics, and you probably won't need that lead weight side tray with a lipo.
For extras I just love the option alloy lipo brackets with velcro strap, some consider it bling, but I find it holds the battery in perfectly and makes changing so easy.
One of your rear A arms needs to be flipped over. You'll see the holes are staggered. On one side the first hole is closer to the end than the other.
Also one of the benefits of the LiPo chassis is you can run the belts round the other way, more room for the electrics, and you probably won't need that lead weight side tray with a lipo.
For extras I just love the option alloy lipo brackets with velcro strap, some consider it bling, but I find it holds the battery in perfectly and makes changing so easy.
One of your rear A arms needs to be flipped over. You'll see the holes are staggered. On one side the first hole is closer to the end than the other.
So I should also switch the drive system to the other side?
I will consider the aftermarket battery holder. Thanks for the heads up.
I also see the rear A-arm needs to be flipped over. I'll redo this! Thanks
Back off the tension on the shocks, go it.
Good info so far guys.
Thanks,
Chris
11-05-2010, 11:54 PM
#6130
He means you should put .2mm or .3mm shims on top of each shock piston below the e-clip. There is a bit of play otherwise. Makes them much smoother shimmed. This tip is not in the instructions, but should be.
Definitely flip the belts. Bit of a pain since you just put it together, but it will balance lighter with the front belt on the battery side.
I recommend getting the 46mm steel dogbones for the front. You'll probably bend one of the aluminum ones with your first solid hit.
Definitely flip the belts. Bit of a pain since you just put it together, but it will balance lighter with the front belt on the battery side.
I recommend getting the 46mm steel dogbones for the front. You'll probably bend one of the aluminum ones with your first solid hit.
11-06-2010, 12:13 AM
#6131
I forgot about the spur shaft, they changed it and left two plastic shims in there, use both plastic shims like in the manual and it will bind some, and not be centered, throw away one plastic shim and replace with some thinner metal shims to get no bind and dead centre.
Shock shims, a flaw in some process, piston came up thin so you get .3mm or play in the shock, Top now do teflon? pistons and I noticed they come with a thin shim, I think.
Also if you feel the cover on you rear diff rub lightly on something, it means you need to pull the diff and rebuild it with the pulley the other way around, it's been punched out of a mold and makes it not even both sides.
Shock shims, a flaw in some process, piston came up thin so you get .3mm or play in the shock, Top now do teflon? pistons and I noticed they come with a thin shim, I think.
Also if you feel the cover on you rear diff rub lightly on something, it means you need to pull the diff and rebuild it with the pulley the other way around, it's been punched out of a mold and makes it not even both sides.
11-06-2010, 12:16 AM
#6132
+1 for steel bones. I have not bent them, though they are just about FLOGGED after a few meetings in 17.5 open. The rears seem to hold up better... but are also showing signs of wear and slop.
To be fair, the car has done a state titles (including a practice day), about 7 club meetings and another larger regional event... so i guess its due for a drive shaft rebuild...
To be fair, the car has done a state titles (including a practice day), about 7 club meetings and another larger regional event... so i guess its due for a drive shaft rebuild...
11-06-2010, 08:40 AM
#6133
Mangoats or anyone interested, I have a 2007 word file that has most of the building tips that readers have suggested on this forum. It's a 10mb file, pm me if interested.
11-06-2010, 12:24 PM
#6135
