hana166

iTrader: (2)

Yeah what a total PITA...the fluid goes in the bearing and gums it up leading to unpredictable handling

Hopefully it will stop when the fluid levels go down enough

Also it was too tight, I made a gasket out of card to space out each side of the case to enable the bevel gears to move smoothly, its perfect now

Works well (at last) and at least its metal geared

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

Really what type of fluid are you using ? Mine haven't leaked at all.

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

No leaks here either. I've had excess oil seep out after a rebuild, but nothing more.

As for the TOP website, I really haven't looked at it for months. Once I dealt with Michael on the phone, I didn't have any reason to get back on the website. I realize that today most people would rather just point and click and see the package in a few days, but I like the personal attention. 2nd to none.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

Both my front and rear gear diffs are leaking slightly around the outdrive inserts. hana166 is right, it's getting in the outdrive bearings. I may have overfilled them though.... Is there a way of telling how much fluid is enough?

paraletic

iTrader: (13)

Has anyone else had a get diff fail/die on them?

I was using a gear diff front n rear just this weekend gone in a large 4day event
car was great all through practice and the first heat
then part way into my second heat the front diff let go, I went from first place to last in the heat
the diff would lock up the rotate notchy like then lock up then freewheel a few rotations before locking up again
under braking the rear would oversteer badly and on acceleration from corners it would oversteer badly too
took another qualifier to work out what had happened

after opening the diff we found heaps of metal filings in the oil it was like a grey metalic grease
all the gears had the tops of the teeth "buzzed" off
after fully cleaning the diff I havnt found any cracked gears etc, but it almost looks like it was starved of lube?
The thrust washers were badly scored the pin was worn badly the backs of the gears was scored up and even looks like the plastic housing got hot and scored/melted a bit
maybe under load the diff fluid is forced out and can't get back in cos it's to thick??
anyone else had this problem?
I was running exceed 100,000 in the diff with a 17.5 and a hobbywing speedy

locked

iTrader: (1)

Who is buying crap peddled by spammers? Someone must be or it wouldn't be worthwhile for them to keep annoying everyone else.

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

sorry i had to delete and ban the spammer

paraletic

iTrader: (13)

Ok so looking further into my diff failure

when I bought the diff it had no intstructions etc, as they all seem to
I hav also got my hands on a maintenance kit which does have instructions, so looking through them and my original diff, I noticed that it came from the factory one shim less than the instructions state???

Without the extra shim this would allow the gears to move an therefore not mesh correctly hence causing premature failure- surely

so did I just get a dud ?? Or does someone else have the same with there diff?
Perhaps this is why no instructions are included??

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

My diffs haven't failed in fact, they're getting smoother with each run, just leaking a little. Too bad you had one crap out! It's not the 20 bucks that rips ya, it's the DNF, right.

paraletic

iTrader: (13)

Yea pretty much
I just don't want it happening again
so trying to work out how make sure it doesn't
and if it was just a dud unit- therefore a correct rebuild will fix the problem- or it's something else

anthony_ling

iTrader: (2)

Photon Lovers.

Anyone else had problems with the wheel hex from the kit or the optional 6.2mm?

With the Kit versions, they deformed when the holding screw was screwed in..
and
the 6.2mm i've got 2 out of the 4 with difference in the depth (on each side) to where the pin sits.. creating a wobble in the wheel..

I'm thinking of trying an alternative: here for a cough, ahem blue car

These look very similar, Can anyone recommend an alternative that they have used successfully.

am i alone?

To troubleshoot I simply used brand new wheels, and moved the hex and wheel to various corners of the car to identify which hex's are bad.
Then using a digital caliper i've measured the depth to where the pin sits and found a 0.06mm difference..


I'm approaching the retailer(s) for an exchange/solution I'll let you know of the outcome.

RBR

iTrader: (3)

mine also deform a bit. how bad is the wheel wobble?

no wheel is perfect, there will definately be some wobbling during rotation.

sosidge

You are fuming over a 0.06mm tolerance in the part, measured with a caliper with a likely claimed tolerance of 0.02mm itself? No offence, but I think your expectations of how accurate these parts should be is too high, especially if this is a used part you are measuring. You are talking about the size of a grain of sand.

There are many problems that I can see with the clamp design hub, but it applies to all manufacturers. I've always preferred the captive pin style of hub (a la older Yokomo's), but Tamiya do the clamp hub so that is probably why everyone else has copied it! I very much doubt the 3Racing hubs would have tighter tolerances than the TOP parts.

anthony_ling

iTrader: (2)

The end result is a 1.5-2mm wobble at the tread, would you be happy with that? Maybe i've used the wrong icon,... is there one for frustrated?
I've been running nitro (foams) for years and haven't seen the problem before. I have 2 wheels that have some wobble, and I accept that... the other two with the bad hex, I don't accept, i'm not sure that the 0.06 difference is the cause, but i know the hex is the problem.

agreed, hence why i'm asking for suggestions..

sosidge

Well, I've done a few calculations and measurements, and even with 0.06mm difference in the hex right at the point where the axle goes through, you would still get only 0.75mm difference at the wheel rim. I personally was unable to measure the depth of the pin groove in my cars hexes as my caliper will not fit in there or find a reliable flat to use as a reference plane.

But, regardless of that, I don't doubt that you are getting 1.5-2mm difference at the rim, and no I wouldn't be happy about it.

But there are a great number of factors beyond just the machining of the hex that can cause this - buckled wheels, bent axles, bent pins, all of which are possible on a car that has been run. Or is this car brand new out of the box and exhibiting these problems on the first build?

Either way, 0.06mm would likely be within the machining tolerance of the part, you could try exchanging parts until you get two more that are correct but it might be a long process.

As far as the hexes go, the clamp type puts a stress on the hex in the direction it is supposed to be driving the wheels... not good. And sometimes they tighten in such a way that the originally flat hex surface is slightly distorted. Captive pin types (made by Yokomo but anodised red) were use on the early Scythes - 3146R-SET2 should be the part number for a pair, if you can find them. Or get them from an old Yokomo. I've just test fitted one on my Photon and they go on fine, albeit with a slightly different offset, approaching 1mm wider than the standard 5.2mm Photon hex.