T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#5236
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
I don't have my car in front of me so this will be by memory, but here it goes
Tires: Solaris
Front:
Camber -2
Springs: 324
Shock oil: 70 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 3 from outside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium low
- upper links: inside shims 2mm, no outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
toe out: 0.5 deg
droop: 1.5mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
ackerman:
- front hole in steering knuckle
- all the way forward on center steering assembly.
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm forward
Track width spacers: 0.5mm all the way around
Back:
Camber -2
Springs: 306
Shock oil: 55 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 1 from inside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium high
- upper links: inside shims 3mm, 2mm outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
Track width spacers: 2mm on front, 3.5 on rear
toe in: 1.875 deg ((3.5 - 2)/0,8)
droop: 2.5 mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm backward
The I did not try this setup until the last round of the triple A main, and it finally gave me a good amount of steering, but the car rolled too much, and I lost time in transitions. The steering was mainly achieved by going from 2mm to 3mm of spacers on the rear inside upper link, but with the droop settings so high, the car rolled too much and wanted to keep turning the corner on exit. If I had one more run, I would have gone to between 0.5mm and 1mm front droop and 1.5 mm rear droop.
Also I don't like the fact that I reduced the rear toe so much to get the steering, as this hurt my ability to get on the power in mod on exit of the corner, and also contributed to the car wanting to keep turning as it finished the corner, so I still need to figure out a combination that allows me to run at least 2.5 if not 3 degrees of rear toe. More time and I will figure it out
Tires: Solaris
Front:
Camber -2
Springs: 324
Shock oil: 70 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 3 from outside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium low
- upper links: inside shims 2mm, no outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
toe out: 0.5 deg
droop: 1.5mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
ackerman:
- front hole in steering knuckle
- all the way forward on center steering assembly.
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm forward
Track width spacers: 0.5mm all the way around
Back:
Camber -2
Springs: 306
Shock oil: 55 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 1 from inside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium high
- upper links: inside shims 3mm, 2mm outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
Track width spacers: 2mm on front, 3.5 on rear
toe in: 1.875 deg ((3.5 - 2)/0,8)
droop: 2.5 mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm backward
The I did not try this setup until the last round of the triple A main, and it finally gave me a good amount of steering, but the car rolled too much, and I lost time in transitions. The steering was mainly achieved by going from 2mm to 3mm of spacers on the rear inside upper link, but with the droop settings so high, the car rolled too much and wanted to keep turning the corner on exit. If I had one more run, I would have gone to between 0.5mm and 1mm front droop and 1.5 mm rear droop.
Also I don't like the fact that I reduced the rear toe so much to get the steering, as this hurt my ability to get on the power in mod on exit of the corner, and also contributed to the car wanting to keep turning as it finished the corner, so I still need to figure out a combination that allows me to run at least 2.5 if not 3 degrees of rear toe. More time and I will figure it out
#5237
Well, it was a great learning experience for my new ride. I love the adjustability of the photon! I think I needed just a little more time to get the steering I wanted, but it was getting close in my very last run of the mod and 17.5 expert a mains. I think I had too much droop as the car was too lazy in transitions in a couple of critical corners, but the balance was good.
Yeah I really was hoping there would have been a 13.5 class as the 17.5 is a little slow for my liking, but I figured I needed as much experience with the car as possible.
Yeah I really was hoping there would have been a 13.5 class as the 17.5 is a little slow for my liking, but I figured I needed as much experience with the car as possible.
James
#5238
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
This is Toronto's "FastCats Depot" summer club racing in the Home Depot parking lot.
This is just a fun practice race of us slower guys. John on the mic always makes it fun.
There's also RROL out in London Ontario and Durham Radio Control Racing Club.
I don't know of any indoor tracks nearby, but would very much like to.
+ YouTube Video | |
This is just a fun practice race of us slower guys. John on the mic always makes it fun.
There's also RROL out in London Ontario and Durham Radio Control Racing Club.
I don't know of any indoor tracks nearby, but would very much like to.
Last edited by locked; 08-11-2010 at 11:19 PM.
#5239
Good !
#5240
#5241
Tech Master
iTrader: (80)
Couple questions:
1. What length universal bones are people running on the front and rear of their Photon? I noticed that A-Main Hobbies sells a 43 mm and a 44.5 mm length aluminum version. Apparently there is also a 46mm version as well (is this the steel one).
I generally run 2mm of track washers on each side for the front and the standard wheel hexes.
I am looking to purchase the LiteModz CVS and not sure if I should order the Photon Front or Photon Rear for the front of the Photon. The LiteModz Photon Fronts are 46mm and the LiteModz Photon Rears are 44mm.
http://www.litemodz.com
2. When running boosted 17.5 is it recommended to run the aluminum, steel or composite spool outdrives?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Chi
1. What length universal bones are people running on the front and rear of their Photon? I noticed that A-Main Hobbies sells a 43 mm and a 44.5 mm length aluminum version. Apparently there is also a 46mm version as well (is this the steel one).
I generally run 2mm of track washers on each side for the front and the standard wheel hexes.
I am looking to purchase the LiteModz CVS and not sure if I should order the Photon Front or Photon Rear for the front of the Photon. The LiteModz Photon Fronts are 46mm and the LiteModz Photon Rears are 44mm.
http://www.litemodz.com
2. When running boosted 17.5 is it recommended to run the aluminum, steel or composite spool outdrives?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Chi
Last edited by cpatel529; 08-12-2010 at 01:23 AM.
#5242
Tech Regular
Hi Martin, i wrote down your settings in a setup sheet, let me know if it's all right.
(btw, i didn't know if you were using sway bars or not, so i left the stock ones)
Cheers!
(btw, i didn't know if you were using sway bars or not, so i left the stock ones)
Cheers!
#5243
#5244
The swaybars were the 1.4mm
Also above someone noted I forgot to indicate which chassis I was running. I was running the medium lipo with the foam upper deck on the 17.5 car. On the mod car I was running the stiffer lipo with the normal upper deck and they felt similar.
Also I was running the Orca ESC and Orca Motor. Very very smooth compared to the Tekin, and it seems to have the same speed. Mark was running the Tekin with a DUO and we seemed to have dead even speed on the electronics.
#5245
Hi I'm really interested in how the top drivers work out the oil weights to use
Is there some generally accepted wisdom on selecting oil weight for a particular track layout or track surface
Or is it a matter of getting the weight transfer ideal for your approach to driving the circuit (driving style)
Is there some generally accepted wisdom on selecting oil weight for a particular track layout or track surface
Or is it a matter of getting the weight transfer ideal for your approach to driving the circuit (driving style)
When the track is bumpy I find it is better to go with a slightly thicker oil than normal, but with really large holes to avoid pack. The smaller the hole the more pack you will get under quick compression, which will lead to a very bouncy car and therefore a general lack of grip. You don't want to go too high on the oil as this can lead to pack as well, or too big on the holes as this can lead to a car that transitions to much and also seems to take away from overall corner speed.
hope that helps.
#5246
Hi guys
What cvds u usually use with spool?
Can I use 44mm steel tamiya cvds...
And is there any parts you advice to carry with me all the time such as rear uprights etc...
Thanx in advance
What cvds u usually use with spool?
Can I use 44mm steel tamiya cvds...
And is there any parts you advice to carry with me all the time such as rear uprights etc...
Thanx in advance
#5248
Couple questions:
1. What length universal bones are people running on the front and rear of their Photon? I noticed that A-Main Hobbies sells a 43 mm and a 44.5 mm length aluminum version. Apparently there is also a 46mm version as well (is this the steel one).
I generally run 2mm of track washers on each side for the front and the standard wheel hexes.
I am looking to purchase the LiteModz CVS and not sure if I should order the Photon Front or Photon Rear for the front of the Photon. The LiteModz Photon Fronts are 46mm and the LiteModz Photon Rears are 44mm.
http://www.litemodz.com
2. When running boosted 17.5 is it recommended to run the aluminum, steel or composite spool outdrives?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Chi
1. What length universal bones are people running on the front and rear of their Photon? I noticed that A-Main Hobbies sells a 43 mm and a 44.5 mm length aluminum version. Apparently there is also a 46mm version as well (is this the steel one).
I generally run 2mm of track washers on each side for the front and the standard wheel hexes.
I am looking to purchase the LiteModz CVS and not sure if I should order the Photon Front or Photon Rear for the front of the Photon. The LiteModz Photon Fronts are 46mm and the LiteModz Photon Rears are 44mm.
http://www.litemodz.com
2. When running boosted 17.5 is it recommended to run the aluminum, steel or composite spool outdrives?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Chi
Rear CVD - 44.5mm aluminum is the standard setup and if you run the rear wide ie ( 2mm front , 4mm rear spacers under the pivot block ) 44 is a little short you'll run just inside of the chamfer on the inside of the outdrive it tends to wear out the short side of the diff. (ball diff) I'd like to ask the litemodz guys to make a 45mm, but havn't yet.
Hope that helps,
James
#5250
This is Toronto's "FastCats Depot" summer club racing in the Home Depot parking lot.
This is just a fun practice race of us slower guys. John on the mic always makes it fun.
There's also RROL out in London Ontario and Durham Radio Control Racing Club.
I don't know of any indoor tracks nearby, but would very much like to.
+ YouTube Video | |
This is just a fun practice race of us slower guys. John on the mic always makes it fun.
There's also RROL out in London Ontario and Durham Radio Control Racing Club.
I don't know of any indoor tracks nearby, but would very much like to.
I don't mean to rain on the Photon parade but the white car with clear wing in lead is a Tamiya 416X!