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Old 07-15-2009, 05:26 AM   #1441
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Also, I wanted to let you guys know that even though our springs are similar to the HPI's - For the same coils/spring wire diameter they are actually a little softer (I think due to material difference or outer coating treatment). Just so you know when you are running that HPI Silver does not equal our 306g.
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Old 07-15-2009, 07:56 AM   #1442
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
Also, I wanted to let you guys know that even though our springs are similar to the HPI's - For the same coils/spring wire diameter they are actually a little softer (I think due to material difference or outer coating treatment). Just so you know when you are running that HPI Silver does not equal our 306g.
I have found the same to be true. HPI Golds feel a little harder on the track then 344's.
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:12 AM   #1443
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Josh-

Had a quick question for you...I have noticed that on the bench the front dampening/spring rebound feels alot softer in the front then the rear of the car. No matter what I do with piston, oil, spring I feel the same thing. At this point I am running 60wt oil, HPI Yellows, and HB 1.2 3 hole pistons in the front and it is now finally starting to feel a little harder then the rear (40wt, HPI blues, HB1.2 3 hole pistons in the rear). I have also tried all of the arm holes and it does not seem to change all that much. I was analyzing the overall shock positions on the tower is it would seem that by design the rear would be in fact softer just based on natural angles.

This has indeed translated on the track, I have been doing a lot of testing with the car and I am finding that the stiffer the front (and softer the rear gets) gets the better the car seems to feel, but at this point I am concerned that I might be going a bit to far.

Is the rubber tire car naturally softer/ more flexible then other rubber tire cars by design?

As for the car feeling softer up front is this an excepted phenomena?

This is a medium sized high bite carpet track.

Thanks...
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:14 AM   #1444
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Ps to leaky shock tops that dont tighten...Hot Boddies diff bearing shims(very thin copper ones) fit nicely on top of the top shock mount between the inside of the cap, they are just enough to get that extra "nip" without deforming the diaphram ...saves trying sanding those caps down equally!!...hope this helps someone?
Great Tip.Hara did this on his build blog for the Cyclone.Works like a charm.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:15 AM   #1445
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I snapped a bellcrank in a really soft collision, this was after I stripped the grub screw out of the radial ackerman plate after a soft brush with the wall. After this I was thinking the steering was a real weak point, but then I installed the kimbrough medium saver and I've had some HUGE hits since without any further issue. I've even sanded the bellcrank down so I can run the servo in the forward mounts without a prob

Does anyone know a bearing co that is both reasonably priced and decent quality? My 10x15 bearings really haven't stood up to the rigors of racing, think I've only done 4-5 meets and they are cactus so I'd like to get some that will last a little longer
e
Good to know that the Kimbrough medium servo saver solves the problem, 'cause that's the one we installed.
Avid RC for the bearings, been using them in all our cars for, four plus years. At a buck a bearing you don't mind replacing them more regularly. They seem to hold up about the same as the high priced, so called higher quality ones we have used.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:25 AM   #1446
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I really like the ABEC3 bearings (w/metal shields) from WalaWala (abec35.com?). The looser tolerances of ABEC3 (vs. 5) actually seem to make the bearings stand up better to carpet fibers, and they're cheaper. I just buy a giant pile of them and toss 'em when one doesn't come clean easily. Life is too short to try and revive a crappy bearing.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:40 AM   #1447
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I really like the ABEC3 bearings (w/metal shields) from WalaWala (abec35.com?). The looser tolerances of ABEC3 (vs. 5) actually seem to make the bearings stand up better to carpet fibers, and they're cheaper. I just buy a giant pile of them and toss 'em when one doesn't come clean easily. Life is too short to try and revive a crappy bearing.

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPath=84_95
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:59 AM   #1448
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I really like the ABEC3 bearings (w/metal shields) from WalaWala (abec35.com?). The looser tolerances of ABEC3 (vs. 5) actually seem to make the bearings stand up better to carpet fibers, and they're cheaper. I just buy a giant pile of them and toss 'em when one doesn't come clean easily. Life is too short to try and revive a crappy bearing.
that's exactly what I used to do in stock classes. (from wallawalla intact lol)

New bearings every meeting run with no sheilds, they didn't last long at all but worked great,
I may intact do this again ready for vegas in my stock car...

Cheers for the link too, I had lost that lol
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:40 PM   #1449
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ERTRACHTER you have a PM
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:54 PM   #1450
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Using shorter bones in the rear resolved the issue with CVD blades breaking.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:40 PM   #1451
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Using shorter bones in the rear resolved the issue with CVD blades breaking.
I noticed just getting the car out close to the width rule fixed all clearance problems. Just a fyi... Stopped loosing blades as well after I did that.
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Old 07-15-2009, 11:18 PM   #1452
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Using shorter bones in the rear resolved the issue with CVD blades breaking.
I tried the TOP 43mm bones from the scythe and it fixed the blade problem, but they are a tad short and probably wont work with rear tracks wider than kit. Best to wait for the 44.5s, or use another brands 44s
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:14 AM   #1453
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2 things I would recommend...

#1. Make sure all the thrust washers are ((((( in configuration. That may help.

#2. Make sure you sand the diff rings really good. The rings in the kit are far from being truly flat. Use like a 200 then go up to 400 grit getting the rings as flat as they can be. You'll see what I mean when you start sanding. It takes a little bit on each ring to get it right.

I'm willing to bet the sanding will help you the most.

Other than that, nothing else special to do.
So for #1 you are only using 5 of the 6 supplied cone washers in your diff?
Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2009, 09:26 AM   #1454
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I got to pet Josh's Photon last night....
I cant wait for my new kit to arrive.
Thirty Bird got his just before racing and we all wanted to get our hands on his nice new box.
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:28 AM   #1455
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Josh,

Can you post a pic of your car please?
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