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Old 07-14-2009, 04:40 PM   #1426
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VTA Set-Up Sheet for 2009 XRAY Challenge / Memphis TN
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Old 07-14-2009, 05:40 PM   #1427
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Wondering if anyone can help out here. My car wants to breaks loose towards the end of a long tightening radius corner at my track. Everywhere else the car is really nice but I have to tip toe around this one corner and its costing me a bit of time. I stood the rear shocks up one hole last night and that helped a bit but it still doesn't inspire confidence through there. If anyone has any tips I'd love to hear them

thanx!

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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
I saw Craig's comment about using TRF shocks
It's just personal preference. I used the TOP shocks and they performed fine on the track, mine didn't really leak either. I sometimes found that adjusting the collar made the whole body spin, so sanding the cap might help there, but my main concern was that the piston didnt run up and down the body as smooth as I would have liked, and with 3 sets of built TRF shocks sitting there I was too damn lazy to play around with them

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Me too. I even got the red caps, collars and retainer. The TOP springs are a little big, though.
Same as the HPI springs, I never had a problem running them though. Where did you get the red caps and collars???
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:25 PM   #1428
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craig check to see if your chassis is hitting cause mine did that same thing the chassis was hitting the track and un loading the car making it almost snap loose
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:41 PM   #1429
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jag88 - For sure I'll be back out as I need to practice for IIC. Just a lot going on right now with Nitro races. I'll try to be at MSI around 2-2:30...

jtveten - It's not imperative but can be used as a tuning option. With the car being so new and never having a bladder that can work like this we just don't know 100% what is possible so we have to do more testing to see what works best in what conditions. The thing I wanted to be able to play with the balance of rebound and pressure to see how it effects or can generate traction - Again, everything on the Photon was really made to try and get as much as possible out of rubber tires. Tire prep - I'm not really sure there. I prefered tweak with a quick wipe of buggy grip at the Reedy Race on the Jaco's. Haven't run Sorex in a while so I am not sure there.

CraigM - Try the more narrow rear hexes (wheel hubs) and add spacers from the inside to keep the rear width the same. You can also try standing up the front shocks as it should help keep the front end from rolling too far on a long corner. The piston isn't quite as smooth on the body as I would have liked but for some reason the mold mfg decided to clean up the mold with the usual light blasting of the surface that makes the slight texture which is what you are feeling. I put my shafts with the pistons on them in the dremal with some really fine sandpaper just to clean up this texture a little and now they are really smooth. Also, be sure to use a .5mm spacer to take up the play in the piston/e-clips. I'm not sure if production was the same as the pre-production I recieved but there was some play in the pistons on the shafts. Hopefully, we can make running updates to fix all these little issues!!
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:13 PM   #1430
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
jag88 - For sure I'll be back out as I need to practice for IIC. Just a lot going on right now with Nitro races. I'll try to be at MSI around 2-2:30...

jtveten - It's not imperative but can be used as a tuning option. With the car being so new and never having a bladder that can work like this we just don't know 100% what is possible so we have to do more testing to see what works best in what conditions. The thing I wanted to be able to play with the balance of rebound and pressure to see how it effects or can generate traction - Again, everything on the Photon was really made to try and get as much as possible out of rubber tires. Tire prep - I'm not really sure there. I prefered tweak with a quick wipe of buggy grip at the Reedy Race on the Jaco's. Haven't run Sorex in a while so I am not sure there.

CraigM - Try the more narrow rear hexes (wheel hubs) and add spacers from the inside to keep the rear width the same. You can also try standing up the front shocks as it should help keep the front end from rolling too far on a long corner. The piston isn't quite as smooth on the body as I would have liked but for some reason the mold mfg decided to clean up the mold with the usual light blasting of the surface that makes the slight texture which is what you are feeling. I put my shafts with the pistons on them in the dremal with some really fine sandpaper just to clean up this texture a little and now they are really smooth. Also, be sure to use a .5mm spacer to take up the play in the piston/e-clips. I'm not sure if production was the same as the pre-production I recieved but there was some play in the pistons on the shafts. Hopefully, we can make running updates to fix all these little issues!!
Josh ygpm
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:20 PM   #1431
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Same as the HPI springs, I never had a problem running them though. Where did you get the red caps and collars???
TamiyaUSA. Maybe I should have ordered a second set before mentioning that?

I don't think there's anything at all wrong with the stock parts, this was just a style preference for me.

Shocks:
49313 - Cylinder Cap (red)
49314 - Cylinder Nut (red)
49315 - Aluminum Retainer (red)

Ball Connectors: (if you want to use Tamiya ball cups)
53641 - Ball Nut (red)
53643 - Ball Connector (red)
53969 - Ball Connector 5x8 (black)
53968 - Ball Connector 5x5 (black)

Bonus:
53645 - Stabilizer Ends (red)
53639 - 6mm ball nut (red) <-- may work with stock ball cups?
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:39 PM   #1432
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Yes.
Thank you
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:42 PM   #1433
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[quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Wondering if anyone can help out here. My car wants to breaks loose towards the end of a long tightening radius corner at my track. Everywhere else the car is really nice but I have to tip toe around this one corner and its costing me a bit of time. I stood the rear shocks up one hole last night and that helped a bit but it still doesn't inspire confidence through there. If anyone has any tips I'd love to hear them

thanx!

I experienced exactly what you are describing with my Trans Am car. My 13.5 car has never showed this tendency but I had a heck of a time sorting this out on the VTA car.

Certainly try standing the front shocks up as Josh suggested. However, you may need to try a couple other things also. Try shortening the front upper camber link. This is not something I would suggest for most cars if you are running asphalt but the Photon has front grip to spare so give it a whirl. Next you can try adding some shims at the suspension mounts to get things a touch wider.
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:42 PM   #1434
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
jag88 - For sure I'll be back out as I need to practice for IIC. Just a lot going on right now with Nitro races. I'll try to be at MSI around 2-2:30...
Hey, watch for a guy walking into MSI tomorrow with a goofy friggin grin on his face and come over and sign my brand new Photon
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Old 07-14-2009, 08:57 PM   #1435
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
CraigM - Try the more narrow rear hexes (wheel hubs) and add spacers from the inside to keep the rear width the same. You can also try standing up the front shocks as it should help keep the front end from rolling too far on a long corner.
Thanks Josh, that sounds about right, I'll make those changes and report back
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:02 PM   #1436
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My shocks leak from the top but I don't think it is enough to hurt on a normal race day as I checked the ride and tweak after every race it stayed the same but the rebound changed on two of them after one race day which I figure is normal
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:50 AM   #1437
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Josh, thanks for the quick response. The tire tweak and buggy grip prep seems to be what we found to work on the Jaco blues also, so no change there. On the Sorex they just plain hook up with no traction compound needed. After bringing the car up to Roar minimum weight, the heavier 1.4 sway bars are a must. The car is really dialed. I ordered the belt tension adjuster, thinking I could run the belt with less tension overall and create a little more rip. What do you think? Broke the bell cranks on both cars tonight, seems that the weakest part is the bell crank. I'm going to install a servo saver, which I hope will relieve enough stress on the bell crank to save it. I heard there is a new bell crank in the works, is that correct, if so when could one expect to order it?

Thanks for all your efforts.
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:16 AM   #1438
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Originally Posted by jtveten View Post
Broke the bell cranks on both cars tonight, seems that the weakest part is the bell crank. I'm going to install a servo saver, which I hope will relieve enough stress on the bell crank to save it
I snapped a bellcrank in a really soft collision, this was after I stripped the grub screw out of the radial ackerman plate after a soft brush with the wall. After this I was thinking the steering was a real weak point, but then I installed the kimbrough medium saver and I've had some HUGE hits since without any further issue. I've even sanded the bellcrank down so I can run the servo in the forward mounts without a prob

Does anyone know a bearing co that is both reasonably priced and decent quality? My 10x15 bearings really haven't stood up to the rigors of racing, think I've only done 4-5 meets and they are cactus so I'd like to get some that will last a little longer
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:17 AM   #1439
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I understand that you are trying to make the transmission as free as possible but keep in mind that you are probably hurting yourself. At top end rpms, running the belts too loose will cause them to bounce all over the place and really make the transmission actually bind up. Loose belts = good punch off the corner but they make for terrible top speed (to a point). The belts should have a maximum of 4mm deflection (from relaxed position to pushing on them with firm tension). Anything more than this will actually cost you top speed and run time.
Thanks for the info JC...seems like I have been doing things wrong "what a fool"...yep a slack belt at speed does make sence...I was just trying to get "the best" in 17.5 class....Trust me I do run a tighter belt in 10.5

Ps to leaky shock tops that dont tighten...Hot Boddies diff bearing shims(very thin copper ones) fit nicely on top of the top shock mount between the inside of the cap, they are just enough to get that extra "nip" without deforming the diaphram ...saves trying sanding those caps down equally!!...hope this helps someone?
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Last edited by lesbaldry; 07-15-2009 at 05:50 AM.
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Old 07-15-2009, 06:24 AM   #1440
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les - Thanks for the info!! I'm sure they will make tolerance adjustments on the next batch so this is improved.

CraigM - Almost every TC out there has a servo saver in it via the bell crank or in the kits (like Tamiya) so really a servo saver should always be used. Keep in mind too - Always try to add traction to the rear if possible when the car breaks free through a section of the track. You may have to adjust the front for other areas but unless the car is simply too bound up and stopping in the center of the corner I always try to put as much traction into the car as possible.

I don't know about a new bell crank unless they are making an aluminum version but everyone needs to keep in mind - Make the bell crank stronger and something else will have to break - Eventually the servo and then we will all be back to running servo savers anyway...lol...

Thirtybird - No problem. I have to pick up my daughter from school, drop her off at home and grab my stuff. I should be out there 2:30ish.
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