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Old 07-08-2009, 08:22 PM   #1306
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I don't think that quote is quite right, the cone washers are on the diff nut side, the thrust is on the screw side. I'm running one spacer there (.5mm from memory) as per the instructions, but I can adjust the screw through the hole so I guess EJ adds another spacer. I'm pretty sure my blade is rubbing on the nut, so shorter dogbones are the best fix
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Old 07-08-2009, 08:23 PM   #1307
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Originally Posted by WooHoo View Post
Does shimming the screw resolve the blade failure issue?
Im having a hard time understanding what the "issue" is with the blades. Ive got 40 runs on my 13.5/10.5 car and about 12 runs on my VTA car, and after inspecting both cars today the blades were found to be perfectly intact with very very little visible wear.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:03 PM   #1308
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Are all the people having blade issues running a lot of camber maybe?

I think syndrome is running jacos so this is a possibility?
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:46 AM   #1309
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Are all the people having blade issues running a lot of camber maybe?

I think syndrome is running jacos so this is a possibility?
I think it's only a problem experienced by the "down unders", everything is backwards there.
Great car Josh, it's just awesome.
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Old 07-09-2009, 01:02 AM   #1310
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Hi,

yesterday I tested the car and the feeling was realy good, I could make very constant laptimes and pretty fast, I just need to make a little bit the set up.
Can anyone tell me where to measure the rear down stop? in the wishbone or in the upright?

Thank you
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Old 07-09-2009, 04:49 AM   #1311
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Originally Posted by jtveten View Post
I think it's only a problem experienced by the "down unders", everything is backwards there.
What a gee up maybe I should double space my replies so you northern hemispherers understand better

I'm running the same rear end as Josh (he must work out haha)... 1.5mm camber, 1mm rear-front, 3mm rear-rear and I'm still losing blades from the rubbing on the diff nut

It's not an issue anyway, the my 43mm shafts are in the post
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Old 07-09-2009, 06:09 AM   #1312
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I usually float between 1.5 and 2 degrees of camber in the rear on Jaco blues like Larry mentioned. Front is almost always 1.5. There's really nothing unusual about my setup, it's pretty much kit as far as shims go, though I reduced the rear toe slightly. I would like to shim the car wider at the bulkheads all around once I get the right parts. I don't like using shims on the hexes with a spool, I always seem to spin the hexes inside the wheels when I do that. Wider hexes sound nice.

I don't know what to say about the blade thing. I'm not alone, several people have experienced it. It seems like certain circumstances exacerbate the problem more for some people than others. I'll be working with other locals to try and find a solution, and will share what I find with you guys.

EJ and Michael have been listening to our concerns with great interest, and really seem to be taking all feedback seriously. I can't say enough about their attitude and approach to this whole thing, it's such a refreshing change in RC.

I understand it's not my normal modus operandi, but I'm really not trying to cause trouble or complain. I just like the idea of reaching out to the community of drivers in an attempt to solve these little quirks together.
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Old 07-09-2009, 06:10 AM   #1313
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I think it's only a problem experienced by the "down unders", everything is backwards there.
Great car Josh, it's just awesome.
Don't be that guy.
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:25 AM   #1314
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Don't be that guy.
In my book...
All the good stuff is down under!
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:55 AM   #1315
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(about the blades.
its easy to check.
just take off the weel clamp(hex) take the pin out and see how far you can push the axle with the blade in the outdrives til it hits the screw or nut.
if you have some play it should be fine.
check it in all the arm posisions.
greetings marcel
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:07 PM   #1316
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Quote:
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(about the blades.
its easy to check.
just take off the weel clamp(hex) take the pin out and see how far you can push the axle with the blade in the outdrives til it hits the screw or nut.
if you have some play it should be fine.
check it in all the arm posisions.
greetings marcel
I try to keep all blades away from my nuts.....
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Old 07-09-2009, 12:53 PM   #1317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Don't be that guy.
It was meant to be humorous, see inserted, most everyone else understood. Sorry if it offended you.

Ref; the blades, check to see if you have some play like Marcel said, also Josh had an earlier post about how to properly install the blades. Good luck.

Mark has had no problems with the blades running mod on a high traction very tight technical track. The only problem he has experienced so far, has been with the diff only holding up for one day. He replaced the stock diff and thrust bearing balls with carbide balls, which solved the problem. He's a couple of tenths a lap faster then his old car, which was already the fastest car at the track. The car is just fantastik, it's so smooth and consistant with unbelievable corner speed.
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Old 07-09-2009, 01:16 PM   #1318
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CraigM - I'm not 100% sure but I think I built my car without any spacer behind the trust. I ran the cone washers (((( I can't remember how many come in the kit - Origionally I designed the car with only 4pcs but I think they put in 6-8 for production (I can't remember). This may also be the reason my blades were ok. I may have ground the end of the diff screw a little shorter but I'll have to check to be sure...
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Old 07-09-2009, 01:37 PM   #1319
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Josh kit comes with 6 cone washer. what about the black piece thats holds the nut in place. Can they try to sand it down some or try and see how far the black piece goes in on the diff. half with out the cone washer and then go from there and adjust the cone washer.
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Old 07-09-2009, 02:15 PM   #1320
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Can someone explain what the poundage of the springs are that TOP has? 344 = to? 306? and all the other ones.
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