9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
07-06-2009, 09:55 AM
#1261
Started putting my Photon together Sunday and had a build issue... all I can say is that TOP has outstanding customer support and service. I have traded a few e-mails with EJ and he has been very responsive and definitely gained my confidence for having great people supporting a great product. 
Keep up the good work.
-Tim S.
Keep up the good work.
-Tim S.
07-06-2009, 10:00 AM
#1262
Started putting my Photon together Sunday and had a build issue... all I can say is that TOP has outstanding customer support and service. I have traded a few e-mails with EJ and he has been very responsive and definitely gained my confidence for having great people supporting a great product.
Keep up the good work.
-Tim S.
Keep up the good work.
-Tim S.
07-06-2009, 10:52 AM
#1263
NO 
J/K
I had trouble gluing the outer flange (J-03-01) to the spool (J-01-1).
On the spool there is only a small amount of surface area to apply CA and the flange is thin and narrow.
EJ suggested applying the glue to the flange then placing the flange onto the spool.
But before exchanging e-mails with EJ... I had cleaned off the CA from my kit spool and flange as best I could (with nail polish remover, a toothbrush and a jewelers screwdriver), then placed the flange onto the spool, put CA on the end of a toothpick and let it flow from the toothpick into the joint between the two. That seemed to work pretty well, but the damage to the kit pieces was already done.
Anyway, I have a new flange & spool on the way. I just want to say again that the response from TOP & EJ was fast, courteous and I couldn't be happier with their level of service and support.
The rest of the build so far has gone very well and I am very pleased with the quality of the kit.
J/KI had trouble gluing the outer flange (J-03-01) to the spool (J-01-1).
On the spool there is only a small amount of surface area to apply CA and the flange is thin and narrow.
EJ suggested applying the glue to the flange then placing the flange onto the spool.
But before exchanging e-mails with EJ... I had cleaned off the CA from my kit spool and flange as best I could (with nail polish remover, a toothbrush and a jewelers screwdriver), then placed the flange onto the spool, put CA on the end of a toothpick and let it flow from the toothpick into the joint between the two. That seemed to work pretty well, but the damage to the kit pieces was already done.
Anyway, I have a new flange & spool on the way. I just want to say again that the response from TOP & EJ was fast, courteous and I couldn't be happier with their level of service and support.
The rest of the build so far has gone very well and I am very pleased with the quality of the kit.
07-06-2009, 11:23 AM
#1264
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Peoples Republic of Northern Virginia
Posts: 5,682
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
NO J/K
I had trouble gluing the outer flange (J-03-01) to the spool (J-01-1).
On the spool there is only a small amount of surface area to apply CA and the flange is thin and narrow.
EJ suggested applying the glue to the flange then placing the flange onto the spool.
But before exchanging e-mails with EJ... I had cleaned off the CA from my kit spool and flange as best I could (with nail polish remover, a toothbrush and a jewelers screwdriver), then placed the flange onto the spool, put CA on the end of a toothpick and let it flow from the toothpick into the joint between the two. That seemed to work pretty well, but the damage to the kit pieces was already done.
Anyway, I have a new flange & spool on the way. I just want to say again that the response from TOP & EJ was fast, courteous and I couldn't be happier with their level of service and support.
The rest of the build so far has gone very well and I am very pleased with the quality of the kit.
J/KI had trouble gluing the outer flange (J-03-01) to the spool (J-01-1).
On the spool there is only a small amount of surface area to apply CA and the flange is thin and narrow.
EJ suggested applying the glue to the flange then placing the flange onto the spool.
But before exchanging e-mails with EJ... I had cleaned off the CA from my kit spool and flange as best I could (with nail polish remover, a toothbrush and a jewelers screwdriver), then placed the flange onto the spool, put CA on the end of a toothpick and let it flow from the toothpick into the joint between the two. That seemed to work pretty well, but the damage to the kit pieces was already done.
Anyway, I have a new flange & spool on the way. I just want to say again that the response from TOP & EJ was fast, courteous and I couldn't be happier with their level of service and support.
The rest of the build so far has gone very well and I am very pleased with the quality of the kit.
07-06-2009, 12:52 PM
#1265
The amendment should note that change.
Second: My review of parts fit is pass/fail.
I didn't need to ream the arms to get the pins in so they pass. I did ream some to free them up.
I did need to ream the gear to get the pulleys on so fail.
Actually I didn't ream the gear I carefully beveled the pulley pin edges which work very well. I believe this could be done in production. If an ejector is used at this location in the mold, it would complicate things.
Regardless.
I am very satisfied with the quality of the TOP car this far.
07-06-2009, 02:18 PM
#1267
Ran my car this weekend. And it was awesome again.
The track is real big and flowing but fast with good traction. I had to take a bunch of steering out of the car, it just turned too much and didn't carry enough speed. Made a few changes, shortened the front link, widened up the front and ran 2.5mm shim under the front camber link and a 1.5 under the rear inside.
Car was really really good. Schreff went to mostly this setup and his laptimes came right around. In the 2nd round he said "this is the best Touring car I have ever driven" So I think he liked it.
The new spool cups seem much better. You guys might want to get longer screws if you are going to shim out the arm mounts at all from the bulkheads, I pulled one out in a minor/major hit on the front end. Because I have the car widened a hair.
What is a cvd cushion?
The track is real big and flowing but fast with good traction. I had to take a bunch of steering out of the car, it just turned too much and didn't carry enough speed. Made a few changes, shortened the front link, widened up the front and ran 2.5mm shim under the front camber link and a 1.5 under the rear inside.
Car was really really good. Schreff went to mostly this setup and his laptimes came right around. In the 2nd round he said "this is the best Touring car I have ever driven" So I think he liked it.
The new spool cups seem much better. You guys might want to get longer screws if you are going to shim out the arm mounts at all from the bulkheads, I pulled one out in a minor/major hit on the front end. Because I have the car widened a hair.
What is a cvd cushion?
07-06-2009, 02:57 PM
#1269
Yeah, sorry, the little blade things that go on the driveshafts. Not sure where I got that name from. Anyway, we're blowing them up after odd crashes. They're disappearing entirely (seems specific to the right side) so if you're not careful, you won't know, and can mangle a diff outdrive. 
Anyway, wanted to see if I can locate another brand that fits to test durability, and so I can run my car while I wait for spares.
Anyway, wanted to see if I can locate another brand that fits to test durability, and so I can run my car while I wait for spares.
07-06-2009, 03:46 PM
#1271
Man, that's a pretty track. We did some outdoor nighttime racing around here last summer and had a great time.
I tried a Tamiya blade in the car (they're a little thin, but fit well) and it too disappeared, presumably from breaking since it happened without the CVD coming out. I've never seen one of those break in 2 years, so I'm wondering if maybe the blade is catching on the diff nut somehow? I only have 4 cone washers in the diff to allow for more clearance. Maybe I'll try a shorter CVD. The two other guys I've talked to with this problem were on carpet, so there could be something to that.
I tried a Tamiya blade in the car (they're a little thin, but fit well) and it too disappeared, presumably from breaking since it happened without the CVD coming out. I've never seen one of those break in 2 years, so I'm wondering if maybe the blade is catching on the diff nut somehow? I only have 4 cone washers in the diff to allow for more clearance. Maybe I'll try a shorter CVD. The two other guys I've talked to with this problem were on carpet, so there could be something to that.
07-06-2009, 05:15 PM
#1273
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Blades - The Kyosho "C" blades are actually the same as the TOP ones so I think they are purchased from an OEM mfg (I didn't draw up those..lol..). Otherwise, I'm not sure what other ones will work. I think the problem is that they spread a little when you put them on the universal and they don't quite return to shape enough - They then stay "open" and can sometimes work themselves a part while on the track. I actually compressed some of mine closed before I put them on and then was really careful not to over stretch them open when I put them on and they were fine..... I had it happen on both sides so I don't think it's diff related...
As far as the gears - The problem was if you try to fit different size Kimbrough gears - certain sizes fit perfectly and others are tight so you have to ream them. Initially, I was using the 116's because of racing a lot on foam tires/mod and those fit easily. The others are tighter around the holes but I didn't check all the different size spurs to check the tolerance. I recieved an e-mail from TOP about the problem and I checked 124-88 from Kimbrough and some were good and others would not fit and had to be reamed. Sucks and I guess the mother of all screw-ups got me - I assumed they were the same!! Little too close on tolerance on that one but I am sure they will adjust the mold on the next batch....
I need to get the question about the roll bar answered from a page or two ago.... I'll get the camera out and take a pic of my car and give the measurement on the roll bar link length..... Sorry for the delays, been working on a lot of things including the CEFX web site so hopefully I can get more done on that tonight!!
As far as the gears - The problem was if you try to fit different size Kimbrough gears - certain sizes fit perfectly and others are tight so you have to ream them. Initially, I was using the 116's because of racing a lot on foam tires/mod and those fit easily. The others are tighter around the holes but I didn't check all the different size spurs to check the tolerance. I recieved an e-mail from TOP about the problem and I checked 124-88 from Kimbrough and some were good and others would not fit and had to be reamed. Sucks and I guess the mother of all screw-ups got me - I assumed they were the same!! Little too close on tolerance on that one but I am sure they will adjust the mold on the next batch....
I need to get the question about the roll bar answered from a page or two ago.... I'll get the camera out and take a pic of my car and give the measurement on the roll bar link length..... Sorry for the delays, been working on a lot of things including the CEFX web site so hopefully I can get more done on that tonight!!
07-06-2009, 05:18 PM
#1274
07-06-2009, 05:58 PM
#1275
As for changes I made... somehow I'm 2 for 2 on race weekends with making changes that actually hurt the car, steering wise.
Larry and I have been changing things basically every run while track conditions stay somewhat similar.
I know I changed to a higher rear roll center (H mount in front/rear and M mount in rear/rear) to gain some anti-squat to help with some bumps on the track and some rear side bite. While that did help smooth the car, it took some of it's initial cut into the corner. What I've seen so far is the car is VERY sensitive to roll center changes both from the arm mounts and the shimming of the camber links. To me, that is a GREAT thing as it can make the car easier to tune depending on surface. That's why we've been able to make things work quickly using what comes in the kit with just some extra shims to change roll center and width.
Once we get springs and bars, we'll explore more, but for now, I couldn't be happier with the car.
I know, that at my hobby shop, Trains and Lanes... everyone is chomping at the bit to get a car, but TOP is out of them. Heck, today alone, they woulda sold 3 kits. EJ and Mike... yell at Vincent to get going!!
We need mo' cars. And yes, Blue Diamond's track is AWESOME!