9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
07-01-2009, 06:37 AM
#1171
This is getting off topic, but.......
I use warmers on carpet and it works. Put them on for 10-20 mins, and the heat soaks into the inserts and rim, so even though it's 2 mins between warmers off and the race start, I get more grip in the first 4 laps as everyone elses tyres are coming up to temp, and I always get a rocket start and grip into the first couple of corners.
I use warmers on carpet and it works. Put them on for 10-20 mins, and the heat soaks into the inserts and rim, so even though it's 2 mins between warmers off and the race start, I get more grip in the first 4 laps as everyone elses tyres are coming up to temp, and I always get a rocket start and grip into the first couple of corners.
07-01-2009, 07:28 AM
#1173
HAHAHA, we used to joke about Ray Woods track designs back in the day because they were always wonky and had one super technical section! I saw the website and the track looks brilliant. Good to hear the bistro arangement is still on!
Never heard of Whalan. I surfed a while ago and it seems forestville is closed down, Brush farm still runs and I don't know what else. There was a club at bankstown for a while- near the airport. Did you ever race at Hurstville indoors?
Matty took over CMC or something like that?
Never heard of Whalan. I surfed a while ago and it seems forestville is closed down, Brush farm still runs and I don't know what else. There was a club at bankstown for a while- near the airport. Did you ever race at Hurstville indoors?
Matty took over CMC or something like that?
Castle Hill is still going - now with a painted bitumen type surface which seems to be the rage here in Sydney. Windsor Hobby Centre (indoors) and Fairy Meadow (Woollongong) also use this type of surface. SMA? I think as well but haven't got over there yet...
Yeah Matt took over CMC.
07-01-2009, 07:32 AM
#1174
The only problem I've had is on top of the C-Hub but that is more related to that whole assembly being really tight. Had to play around a lot so I could get the ball tight at the top - from build the steering was binding when the ball was locked down.
07-01-2009, 07:33 AM
#1175
I'm just building my kit now....but I'm not sure if those are prone to coming loose or not. But what I have done is screw in the set screw and hand tighten the threaded ball, then give the assembly another 1/4 turn with a hex driver. This makes everything snug. We'll see if this works...
07-01-2009, 07:38 AM
#1176
I'm just building my kit now....but I'm not sure if those are prone to coming loose or not. But what I have done is screw in the set screw and hand tighten the threaded ball, then give the assembly another 1/4 turn with a hex driver. This makes everything snug. We'll see if this works...
07-01-2009, 07:46 AM
#1177
That's what I did as well, and found myself needing to tighten them here and there. Mostly, on the rear hubs, inner steering links, and top of the c-hubs. I spent about 30 hours at the track the last two days putting packs through the car, so things had plenty of time to loosen up. I didn't break anything, I think the P-dub bumper helped a lot with that. I did throw a belt off the spool during an impact, so I tightened it up one click on the cams. The belts definitely free up with some time.
About the belts...As others have stated the belt is tight in the factory setting. But it seems that if I loosen by a few notches it would be loose enough. But I'm thinking that i should run it with the factory setting first to loosen it up that way. What have you found?
07-01-2009, 07:52 AM
#1178
And for the springs, yes, I agree they look to me like )))((( which is a medium setting.
07-01-2009, 08:22 AM
#1180
Cool...
About the belts...As others have stated the belt is tight in the factory setting. But it seems that if I loosen by a few notches it would be loose enough. But I'm thinking that i should run it with the factory setting first to loosen it up that way. What have you found?
About the belts...As others have stated the belt is tight in the factory setting. But it seems that if I loosen by a few notches it would be loose enough. But I'm thinking that i should run it with the factory setting first to loosen it up that way. What have you found?
07-01-2009, 09:21 AM
#1181
New Drive Cups
Hello Everyone,
The new drive cups are in! They are made of a harder material that will wear better. When you get these, please throw your old ones away.
One bag (4 pcs) is complimentary to everyone that bought a kit. We'll be sending them out to all our customers.
You can also send us an email [email protected] and put in the subject heading "Drive Cups V2". We will need proof of purchase, USA customers only.
The new drive cups are in! They are made of a harder material that will wear better. When you get these, please throw your old ones away.
One bag (4 pcs) is complimentary to everyone that bought a kit. We'll be sending them out to all our customers.
You can also send us an email [email protected] and put in the subject heading "Drive Cups V2". We will need proof of purchase, USA customers only.
07-01-2009, 09:26 AM
#1182
That's what I did as well, and found myself needing to tighten them here and there. Mostly, on the rear hubs, inner steering links, and top of the c-hubs. I spent about 30 hours at the track the last two days putting packs through the car, so things had plenty of time to loosen up. I didn't break anything, I think the P-dub bumper helped a lot with that. I did throw a belt off the spool during an impact, so I tightened it up one click on the cams. The belts definitely free up with some time.
Make sure the pulley guid is glued on all the way. If you only have it glued only in the inner diameter, it will flex and the belt will come off. Hope this helps.
07-01-2009, 12:30 PM
#1184
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07-01-2009, 12:31 PM
#1185
If you just recently got your kit, we included an additional spool. The one that says new has the new drive cups. The spools however are the same.
