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Old 06-28-2009, 04:40 PM   #1051
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
read the previous couple pages. It has all ready been explained.
i dont tink so.
show me where. i was talking about the hardness not the system.
that is proven to work to me at my arp
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:01 PM   #1052
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If you saw my servo after I went wild with the dremel.... Hanson was wondering if there was anything left of it....

My first day running it report....

Where did all the *%$*&(&$)( steering come from? First time a I've ever ran a spool.... And I liked it!!!

Now the post build report.... 2 out of 4 shocks did not hold the shock oil..
I built them right ( OK 1 shaft had a nick in it ) Gonna take them apart and see what the problem is... I had the droop set way too loose... And used a set of snowbirds rubber tires because thats all I had at the time...

Thanks to Jamie for some build/set-up tips and Brandon Hess for really fine tuning the set up ( OK he really made a lot of tuning changes ) and it really made a huge difference...

The only issue I need to resolve is the lip battery with the banana plugs with the positive right under the upper deck....
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:19 PM   #1053
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Originally Posted by Ericjooopuntnl View Post
I build the car and it was a dream to build. No crazy things, nice fits and it looks awesome. I only have one problem; the diff is not smooth; i can get it smooth but the slip is than too much; if i tighten it so the slip is okay the diff is very hard to get around. What am i doing wrong??

greetz,

Eric
Eric,

Check the alignment of the cone washers inside the thrust assembly - it sounds like that is the problem. Build it to kit first - all cone washers facing the same direction with the correct orientation within the thrust - to confirm you have a problem. Also check the lock nut and plastic holder to make sure they aren't damaged. If all of the above is okay, then play around with the cone washers to change the progression of how the diff tightens up. See a few pages back for some explanations.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
The only issue I need to resolve is the lip battery with the banana plugs with the positive right under the upper deck....
Either you need to do a 90 degree solder job on the plug or mount the battery with sockets forward and angle it in at the front. That way you can plug into the battery through the middle of the top deck.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:20 PM   #1054
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Bagofskill - Yes, the universals are 46mm from pin/pin so they are the same as the 46mm Tamiya ones. Xray does measure them differently so I think their 52's are the same as the 46's (I'm not 100%). Honestly, we talked about a LDC for the front but after seeing the cost plus the unreliability (lot of races where I've seen them broken) we decided not to make them. If you want to use them, you will also have to use their castor block as they will not fit in our castor block. I designed the spool to actually load/flex to help absorb some of the bind/chatter from the universal so I don't know if the LCD is such a big difference in out car compared to others... Again, I haven't tested it thought so I can't really give any information about it.

marcel - The diff pulley was supposed to be perfectly on center but I think there is a small amount of offset which is probably the result of ejection/cooling from the mold (possibly because of the shoulder for the dust covers to pop on - it has to be "punched" from the mold rather than just simply released). Yes, put the shorter side toward the short side outdrive so it doesn't drag on the bearing cam.

Eric - I'm not really sure, please check the assembly compared to the manual and also check the rings/balls. Just push the outdrives together by hand with the balls rings to feel their movement. Take the trust out and put some pressure on the back washer to again check the movement - maybe this way you can find if there's a bad ball or something that is wrong with the thrust or main part of the differential.

I did design a new servo saver but I am not sure if the mold/parts were made yet or if they will be. Hopefully they will but I am sure they were swamped with a lot going on.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:22 PM   #1055
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I had a warped shock shaft, so in a pinch I threw some TRF shafts and pistons in there. They appear to be a direct fit. Since that's the car I'm coming from, it's where I'm sourcing my "uh oh" parts until I get my TOP supply built up.

I kind of wish the shock caps had an o-ring or something in them to help them stay a bit more snug. They're wanting to twist pretty easily when adjusting the collars.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:24 PM   #1056
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Nova - The fit on the o-rings is a bit too perfect. Mine were a little of the same but with the age/use of the o-rings they will swell slightly which should stop the shock leaking. I built my shocks at the Reedy and by the 2nd-3rd day they stopped.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:27 PM   #1057
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eric try to use 1 less ball in the trust bearing.
i think there is one to manny in it
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:37 PM   #1058
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My kit had one extra trust bearing ball. Also I are drooping from the round parts of the hub.
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:40 PM   #1059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr01 View Post
Eric,

Check the alignment of the cone washers inside the thrust assembly - it sounds like that is the problem. Build it to kit first - all cone washers facing the same direction with the correct orientation within the thrust - to confirm you have a problem. Also check the lock nut and plastic holder to make sure they aren't damaged. If all of the above is okay, then play around with the cone washers to change the progression of how the diff tightens up. See a few pages back for some explanations.



Either you need to do a 90 degree solder job on the plug or mount the battery with sockets forward and angle it in at the front. That way you can plug into the battery through the middle of the top deck.
I'm planning on getting a better lip with deans so that will solve that right away.... I had a 4.08 ratio.... Is that too high for stock? What is the target? 3.75?
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:46 PM   #1060
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
Nova - The fit on the o-rings is a bit too perfect. Mine were a little of the same but with the age/use of the o-rings they will swell slightly which should stop the shock leaking. I built my shocks at the Reedy and by the 2nd-3rd day they stopped.
The funny thing is they are leaking from the top.... I'm going to check the bladders and see if they are nicked/etc.. Thanks Josh and good luck in Europe...
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:14 PM   #1061
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The funny thing is they are leaking from the top.... I'm going to check the bladders and see if they are nicked/etc.. Thanks Josh and good luck in Europe...
The car i built for a mate, also has the same problem, it looks like what happened on the Hara Cyclone, the top shock cap ring is too deep, and doesnt compress the bladder enough to form a good seal, see the hara build steps, or you can also sand down the ring a little to get a good seal.


It seems like a servo save is going to be mandatory, i saw when CraigM broke his car, he just got a touch up from the rear by another car, and he lost all steering.
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Old 06-28-2009, 06:49 PM   #1062
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Well I built my car and ran it 2 days this weekend and experienced ZERO problems.

This car is going to be very good for me, tonnnns of steering and every adjustment I made did what it was supposed to and made the car better.


After running my previous car for over 2 years I would say this car is as good if not better for me already on rubber tires.

I ran on 2 different tracks this weekend that could not of been more different. One was super tight and small where the car needed steering and the other was wide open huge and flowing where corner speed. The car was awesome on both tracks but obviously better the 2nd day learning the car.

My car today was unbelievable I cant say enough good things about this car.


I am running a med black kimbrough servo saver in the top front hole on the saver and I have it offset so its at its highest point where the servo horn would be. Its not quite as tall as the stock one at that point but its close and gives me plenty of room for lock to lock and some.

I have an JR8800 shimmed out with the long mounts 1.5mm I'm not in the forward most hole so all I had to do was cut the top of the front ear off my servo and it fits great. But im also running a Tekin Rs and a 3520 Spekturm receiver so I don't need as much room as the guys running bigger electronics.

IMO this is the most innovative car since the Type R, Josh thought all of this stuff out very well.

As for the spur gear mount, I think its lovely and super light, don't over tighten it. And set your mesh right and you wont need to replace spurs all that often in the first place.

Yesterday I hit stuff as hard as you can with a 13.5 and broke nothing, these were hits that surely would of broken some other cars but mine kept on trucking. One of the hits drew a Ohhhhh from the onlookers but when the car kept on going people said "I need to get one of those".

Any cool little stuff I do to my car I will try and post on here to let everyone know.

I want to thank E.J., Josh, Michael, and Vincent for having me on the team, this is going to be a great year.
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:03 PM   #1063
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Originally Posted by Besercoe View Post
The car i built for a mate, also has the same problem, it looks like what happened on the Hara Cyclone, the top shock cap ring is too deep, and doesnt compress the bladder enough to form a good seal, see the hara build steps, or you can also sand down the ring a little to get a good seal.


It seems like a servo save is going to be mandatory, i saw when CraigM broke his car, he just got a touch up from the rear by another car, and he lost all steering.
Now that makes sense about the shocks.... Yes, a server saver is a must!!!
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:32 PM   #1064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericjooopuntnl View Post
I build the car and it was a dream to build. No crazy things, nice fits and it looks awesome. I only have one problem; the diff is not smooth; i can get it smooth but the slip is than too much; if i tighten it so the slip is okay the diff is very hard to get around. What am i doing wrong??

greetz,

Eric
Im willing to bet just about anything (except my Photon) that the problem with your diff is too many thrust balls. I built six photon diffs this week (two for me four for others) and I had this issue with two of the six. The kits have at least on or two extra thrust balls in the bag for the oh S#!* moment. So, if you are not paying close attention and accidentally put any more than eight balls in there, you will have issues. I also built one diff with only seven balls and it is as perfect and silky smooth as the others.

I am absolutely thrilled with the diff in my car by the way. It is by far the smoothest diff I have ever felt. Even after 18 packs I put on it this weekend it is pure sexyness.
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:34 PM   #1065
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Yes, a servo saver is a must. Me being "Mr. I don't need no stinkin' servo saver." I couldn't have been more wrong.

During one of my qualifiers, a car wrecked in front of me and stopped directly in front of me. I hit him full speed and it broke the steering bellcrank. Something that could have been avoided easily by not being lazy and putting a servo saver on my car.

Other than my bonehead moves, the car was rock solid.

I'm really excited to get more time on the car. And I can't agree more, with Larry, that it's going to be a great year.
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