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Old 06-28-2009, 09:18 AM   #1036
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Does anyone know / or can someone measure the driveshaft length? They're called 46mm, is that from 'pin to pin' on the dogbone to CVD? If it's 46mm pin to pin, that would be the same a Xray 52mm (which is measured from dogbone tip to tip) so it would allow the use of Xray shafts, I'm thinking of the ECS shafts which are worthwhile on an xray with tight indoors tracks- might work on the photon too?
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:36 AM   #1037
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Originally Posted by CLK@racing View Post
Hi EJ,

Some questions on mounting the servo in the forward position.

1) How much of the bell crank arm you'll need to file off? Wouldn't this weaken the strength where the screw hole is? Possible for you to take a pic of your filed crank arm?

2) What servo saver are you using? It seems to be positioned farther away from the servo compared to normal.

Thank you.
Well,
I am not EJ, but I mounted my servo in the front holes as well. It is using a JR 8800 Servo. I cut nothing off the steering assembly. All I did was take the top mounting ear off the servo on that one side and trimmed up the edge of the servo. Then shimmed accordingly to get the servo pushed out a little. I think I used 2.5mm when mounting the servo and a 2mm shim to attached the turnbuckle to the servo saver.
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Last edited by Jamie Hanson; 07-28-2009 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 06-28-2009, 10:59 AM   #1038
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Originally Posted by BagofSkill View Post
Does anyone know / or can someone measure the driveshaft length? They're called 46mm, is that from 'pin to pin' on the dogbone to CVD? If it's 46mm pin to pin, that would be the same a Xray 52mm (which is measured from dogbone tip to tip) so it would allow the use of Xray shafts, I'm thinking of the ECS shafts which are worthwhile on an xray with tight indoors tracks- might work on the photon too?
Okay but .. aren't they like $80 bucks a pair ?
I guess you would only need them for the front. (Duh!)
But will they work on a Photon?
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:06 AM   #1039
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
Well,
I am not EJ, but I mounted my servo in the front holes as well. It is using a JR 8800 Servo. I cut nothing off the steering assembly. All I did was take the top mounting ear off the servo on that one side and trimmed up the edge of the servo. Then shimmed accordingly to get the servo pushed out a little. I think I used 2.5mm when mounting the servo and a 2mm shim to attached the turnbuckle to the servo saver.
Hey Jamie .. umm don't get me wrong ... what I'm going to say might not make you faster but perhaps if you would spend a little more time making sure your tool is properly engaged to the fasteners you wouldn't have so many tool marks on your hardware. And for someone that is going to graphite sticker the electronics I would think you could have made your carvings a bit nicer. Was that a live beaver that you cut the ear of with ? Sorry man.. I'm just anal retentive. P.S. Did you used to live near Sterling Heights, Like back in the '80's?
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:00 PM   #1040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
Well,
I am not EJ, but I mounted my servo in the front holes as well. It is using a JR 8800 Servo. I cut nothing off the steering assembly. All I did was take the top mounting ear off the servo on that one side and trimmed up the edge of the servo. Then shimmed accordingly to get the servo pushed out a little. I think I used 2.5mm when mounting the servo and a 2mm shim to attached the turnbuckle to the servo saver.
Thanks Jamie, that's pretty much what was done on EJ's car, but the servo shim was 2mm.

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... Was that a live beaver that you cut the ear of with ? ...
A live beaver is our prefered method for servo trimming
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Old 06-28-2009, 12:20 PM   #1041
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Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
Hey Jamie .. umm don't get me wrong ... what I'm going to say might not make you faster but perhaps if you would spend a little more time making sure your tool is properly engaged to the fasteners you wouldn't have so many tool marks on your hardware. And for someone that is going to graphite sticker the electronics I would think you could have made your carvings a bit nicer. Was that a live beaver that you cut the ear of with ? Sorry man.. I'm just anal retentive. P.S. Did you used to live near Sterling Heights, Like back in the '80's?
Hahahahaah...
I was anxious to get the car on the track. The live beaver I keep in my tool box for jobs just like that..... I plan on cleaning it up a little. The servo had decals on it from before. I just wanted to make sure it ran. More pictures of the car will come later after I have cleaned it up for your approval.

I did live in Midland, Michigan up until about 3 years ago. Raced at Robbies Hobbies in Bay City, USA raceways in Bridgeport, JJs speedshop, the many locations of Larrys and also in GR.
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Old 06-28-2009, 02:58 PM   #1042
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hey josh
why is the spur gear holder and pullys so soft plastic.
the holder and pullys off the arp are much harder.
and is it tru there is a bit offset in the pully?
looks like the deep site off the pully has to point at the long outdrive site.
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:04 PM   #1043
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I build the car and it was a dream to build. No crazy things, nice fits and it looks awesome. I only have one problem; the diff is not smooth; i can get it smooth but the slip is than too much; if i tighten it so the slip is okay the diff is very hard to get around. What am i doing wrong??

greetz,

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Old 06-28-2009, 04:12 PM   #1044
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hey josh
why is the spur gear holder and pullys so soft plastic.
the holder and pullys off the arp are much harder.
read the previous couple pages. It has all ready been explained.
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:13 PM   #1045
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Well, First weekend with the car.....apart from motors problems it was planted!

Never had so much steering on a car. Changed a few things from the kit setup. Cant wait till i go out agian!
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:27 PM   #1046
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this week i have broken my steering crank that my taste is soft, so I replaced with the steering crank of which is identical MI4 and stronger and i use bloc caster 2 tamiya
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T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-p5290129.jpg   T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-p5290145.jpg  
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:39 PM   #1047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John St.Amant View Post
Hey Jamie .. umm don't get me wrong ... what I'm going to say might not make you faster but perhaps if you would spend a little more time making sure your tool is properly engaged to the fasteners you wouldn't have so many tool marks on your hardware. And for someone that is going to graphite sticker the electronics I would think you could have made your carvings a bit nicer. Was that a live beaver that you cut the ear of with ? Sorry man.. I'm just anal retentive. P.S. Did you used to live near Sterling Heights, Like back in the '80's?
I know Jamie very well and while it might look like he didn't finish things perfectly on some cosmetic things I can assure you that the car is built to perfection. Don't let a few little things fool you!!!!!!!!!!! He has made a living of beating people that have perfect looking wiring and pretty looking cars. He is an multi time National Oval Champion and Multi time Snowbirds Champion so he does know what he is doing.
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Old 06-28-2009, 04:55 PM   #1048
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Originally Posted by nocif13 View Post
this week i have broken my steering crank that my taste is soft, so I replaced with the steering crank of which is identical MI4 and stronger and i use camber 2 deg tamiya
I like the carbon crank, but not where the steering links end up - that's a long way forward compared to the kit

I think the team out here ended up with 3 broken cranks over the weekend, so make sure you carry spares and use a servo saver... speaking of which, does anyone know of a servo saver that would locate the ball link in the same position as the long hole on the kit horn? I've been using the long hole to get a little more lock, but the kimbrough servo saver seems to be about the same hight as the lower hole
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:00 PM   #1049
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I like the carbon crank, but not where the steering links end up - that's a long way forward compared to the kit

I think the team out here ended up with 3 broken cranks over the weekend, so make sure you carry spares and use a servo saver... speaking of which, does anyone know of a servo saver that would locate the ball link in the same position as the long hole on the kit horn? I've been using the long hole to get a little more lock, but the kimbrough servo saver seems to be about the same hight as the lower hole
replaces the steering crank OF Schum MI4,
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:34 PM   #1050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I like the carbon crank, but not where the steering links end up - that's a long way forward compared to the kit

I think the team out here ended up with 3 broken cranks over the weekend, so make sure you carry spares and use a servo saver... speaking of which, does anyone know of a servo saver that would locate the ball link in the same position as the long hole on the kit horn? I've been using the long hole to get a little more lock, but the kimbrough servo saver seems to be about the same hight as the lower hole
Tried a Tamiya?

I've got it on mine and get lock to lock easily.

Last edited by syndr0me; 06-28-2009 at 05:51 PM.
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