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Old 01-20-2013, 07:34 PM   #9016
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I just picked up a photon used from a guy over at horsham, its not the EX but it's a really good looking car.. A few of the fastest guys at horsham run this car( most likely the EX) but since I've only been racing since a few weeks before Xmas I figured let me drive and learn from the best.. I raced all summer with my nitro car and loved it and when I drove electric immediately lost interest with nitro so i have a base knowledge but I will have lots of questions soon.. Thanks in advance guys
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:39 PM   #9017
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I just picked up a photon used from a guy over at horsham, its not the EX but it's a really good looking car.. A few of the fastest guys at horsham run this car( most likely the EX) but since I've only been racing since a few weeks before Xmas I figured let me drive and learn from the best.. I raced all summer with my nitro car and loved it and when I drove electric immediately lost interest with nitro so i have a base knowledge but I will have lots of questions soon.. Thanks in advance guys
It's a solid car, I've wrecked numerous times and haven't broken anything yet. I'm running 2 photons, usvta and usgt.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:21 PM   #9018
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Exactly what I want to hear captain
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:59 PM   #9019
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What's the best oils to use for shocks and diffs?
Also, what is the purpose of a reverse one-way? Wouldn't it make the car rear wheel drive?
Can I put the photon gear diff in the front as an option(I don't see why not, just making sure) ? And what would you think would be a good starting point? 100,000 oil or higher?
Thanks in advance
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:27 AM   #9020
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
What's the best oils to use for shocks and diffs?
Also, what is the purpose of a reverse one-way? Wouldn't it make the car rear wheel drive?
Can I put the photon gear diff in the front as an option(I don't see why not, just making sure) ? And what would you think would be a good starting point? 100,000 oil or higher?
Thanks in advance
The one way is a differential that has a one way bearing in it so on power, it "locks up" acting almost like a differential, but off power it free wheels giving you better turning at the expense of brakes. You loose front brakes with a one way.

I run a gear diff in my VTA car with 120k oil right now. I plan on stepping it up some more though, its still pretty loose.

I run Ofna diff oils, and Associated shock oils. Use associated red label grease for the ball diffs. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2765&P=7
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:30 AM   #9021
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Has anyone experimented with the radial Ackerman plates?
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:33 AM   #9022
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Has anyone experimented with the radial Ackerman plates?
No, but I have messed with moving the ackerman forwards and backwards. I have found that moving it all the way forward makes it VERY touchy.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:35 AM   #9023
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I have been using Mugen 200k oil up front, 300k may work even better, but the 200k feels good to me.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:37 AM   #9024
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No, but I have messed with moving the ackerman forwards and backwards. I have found that moving it all the way forward makes it VERY touchy.
Are you talking about the bell crank?
Have you messed with the two sets of holes on the steering spindles where the link mounts?

Last edited by THE GOOCH; 01-22-2013 at 06:38 AM. Reason: I can't spell
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:45 AM   #9025
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I have been using Mugen 200k oil up front, 300k may work even better, but the 200k feels good to me.
I was going to try 300k Saturday to see how it felt.

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Are you talking about the bell crank?
Have you messed with the two sets of holes on the steering spindles where the link mounts?
Yeah, I was talking about the bell crank, it is adjustable. Another note with that is I had to file away some of the material to keep from hitting the front diff. Not much, but enough that if you dont it will rub. I had to do this with both the plastic and aluminum versions. I havent messed with the locations on the spindles (knuckles, whatever, lol). I'm using the 2nd (inner) hole.

Another note, if you havent already, setup you car using a setup station. A fellow racer helped me out with this, as this is my first TC, and there were several major things wrong. One of the most important was the roll center mounts, I did not realize the mounting block inserts were keyed, and could be run with the slash mark facing either up or down. Mine were all messed up! Right after we got everything setup properly I took it out and won the B main (Thanks Rick!)
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:55 PM   #9026
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The one way is a differential that has a one way bearing in it so on power, it "locks up" acting almost like a differential, but off power it free wheels giving you better turning at the expense of brakes. You loose front brakes with a one way.

I run a gear diff in my VTA car with 120k oil right now. I plan on stepping it up some more though, its still pretty loose.

I run Ofna diff oils, and Associated shock oils. Use associated red label grease for the ball diffs. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2765&P=7
I know a one way locks up on power
, but is a reverse one way the opposite?
How about muchmore shock oils? I know some fast guys from 360 v2 in new Rochelle ( shut down, hope it re-opens soon) that use it..

I used mugen 120,000 in my front diff for my nitro car and 80,000 in the rear, that's probable the brand I'm going to use
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:43 PM   #9027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
I know a one way locks up on power
, but is a reverse one way the opposite?
How about muchmore shock oils? I know some fast guys from 360 v2 in new Rochelle ( shut down, hope it re-opens soon) that use it..

I used mugen 120,000 in my front diff for my nitro car and 80,000 in the rear, that's probable the brand I'm going to use
The reverse one-way is for people that have flipped the belts (running them on the opposite sides to standard). You would never use it as a "freewheel drive, locked coast" setup. You're unlikely to ever want a one-way in electric TC (doesn't mean you are not allowed to try one though).

Last edited by sosidge; 01-24-2013 at 12:11 AM. Reason: Wrote one-way operation backwards
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:38 PM   #9028
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The reverse one-way is for people that have flipped the belts (running them on the opposite sides to standard). You would never use it as a "locked drive, freewheel coast" setup. You're unlikely to ever want a one-way in electric TC (doesn't mean you are not allowed to try one though).
That's what I thought, if someone used it without the belts flipped it would make the car rear wheel drive... Just was wondering what was the point, I always use a solid but want to try a diff, I never tried in my t2.
Which diff would I use? I have a yokomo gear diff in the rear should I use the top lightweight one in the front?
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:42 PM   #9029
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That's what I thought, if someone used it without the belts flipped it would make the car rear wheel drive... Just was wondering what was the point, I always use a solid but want to try a diff, I never tried in my t2.
Which diff would I use? I have a yokomo gear diff in the rear should I use the top lightweight one in the front?
I running a gear diff up front, ball diff in the rear.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:02 AM   #9030
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Anyone looking for a used photon I got a couple for sale. $350 for both. I have lipo chassis one and a carpet one with an extra chassis. You can see the photos of all the stuff here.
All aluminum hubs, battery holder, and steering crank. Gear diffs are in the lipo one. Also comes with an extra set of shocks. Tamiya shocks are on the lipo chassis.
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