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Old 05-05-2012, 05:42 PM   #8881
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Originally Posted by Nova F1 Racer
Time to sell my TOP Photon and all the spares you'll ever need....

Not going to post this in the for sale thread because I want to sell it local to some one that knows me and my "stuff".

Comes with transponder, a couple of motors, 2 Tekin speed controls, lots of spurs and pinions, and so many spares you could build another car. Oh and 4 gear diff, a one-way and 2 ball diffs as well. Plus lots of extras and people who know me just have an idea of what extras I am taking about...

Sell only, no trades I just don't have time to run it.....

Heading to France again so no replies until after May 17th ( Or before May6th )


I'd like to get $500 or best offer...

Both motors are 17.5 one has never beens used ( OHP ) Both are RS pro, one new in the box. Comes with the computer interface.... Pics when I get back...

Rick
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Old 05-06-2012, 03:10 PM   #8882
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Just want to shout out Mike Ivy for his near tq but win yesterday at Jackson RC showing everyone that the old Photon can still make it happen..
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Old 05-06-2012, 04:27 PM   #8883
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
TC 17.5 Blinky is; Tour Car running a 17.5 turn motor using a Timing based ESC with no timing.

What class are you running at your track and what wind is the TP motor?
I'm running sportsman 17.5 stock but I think everyone is squeezing something extra out of there motor, timing bump up on there SC, turbo and I think there even doing something's with rotors to get more out along with magnets. I was able to use a friends LRP 17.5 to my SC and no change. I have sent and email to Tekin support.

I did meet someone who rep Thunder Power motor he look at my set up, he said it was ok. (set up in my radio to speed controler, speed cotroler lights flashing the way there supost to be) He said my gear ratio should be around 3.88. I can tell you I was running a 6.55 and it was just fine, if I got up that tall in gearing I would need more track and a lot less infield. My gears would have to be pinion 45 and spur 87 that would get me to 3.87. I present run 33 pinion and 108 spur. Information the track that I run at is only maybe 100 ft by 25 ft, please don't hold this numbers as what it is I can find out. But it's not a large track.

What gearing would you say I need for a track a little more or less? I do know when I 1st ran this car I had to turn my gearing down because I was spinning out at every coner. Plus made some camber and toe adjustment. But with out proper power, best thing is, to go back and fine out what happen to power from brushless motor. Because if this is what electric is like, no thanks not for me. It's a little frustration coming out. I was getting close to what I wanted too keep running, maybe some fine running at the chassis and know this happen. I'm sure I will find the fix soon.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:44 PM   #8884
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Originally Posted by yogii View Post
I'm running sportsman 17.5 stock but I think everyone is squeezing something extra out of there motor, timing bump up on there SC, turbo and I think there even doing something's with rotors to get more out along with magnets. I was able to use a friends LRP 17.5 to my SC and no change. I have sent and email to Tekin support.

I did meet someone who rep Thunder Power motor he look at my set up, he said it was ok. (set up in my radio to speed controler, speed cotroler lights flashing the way there supost to be) He said my gear ratio should be around 3.88. I can tell you I was running a 6.55 and it was just fine, if I got up that tall in gearing I would need more track and a lot less infield. My gears would have to be pinion 45 and spur 87 that would get me to 3.87. I present run 33 pinion and 108 spur. Information the track that I run at is only maybe 100 ft by 25 ft, please don't hold this numbers as what it is I can find out. But it's not a large track.

What gearing would you say I need for a track a little more or less? I do know when I 1st ran this car I had to turn my gearing down because I was spinning out at every coner. Plus made some camber and toe adjustment. But with out proper power, best thing is, to go back and fine out what happen to power from brushless motor. Because if this is what electric is like, no thanks not for me. It's a little frustration coming out. I was getting close to what I wanted too keep running, maybe some fine running at the chassis and know this happen. I'm sure I will find the fix soon.
Like the Thunder Power rep mentioned run around a 3.8 for a no timing class. I run this same gearing on a 60'x40' track with 25 timing on the motor, it's very fast. I would only use a 6.55 FDR if i was running 17.5 with timing from the ESC.

If your car is braking loose in the back there are setup issue. Ask some of the fast guys at your track for setup help or check out one of the setups on Hanulec's Wiki page, try Larry's Gate 2009 or Schreffler's 2010 Snowbirds setup. Either are pretty good the only mods i've made are; long wheel base front and back, bell crank forward, and i use sway bars 1.4mm front and back.

Either that or your using a spool up front which can make the rear break loose if your not easy on the throttle coming out of the turn. Front spools take some time to get use to. For a beginner i would recommend a ball diff up front until you feel comfortable driving the car.

http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:18 PM   #8885
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
Like the Thunder Power rep mentioned run around a 3.8 for a no timing class. I run this same gearing on a 60'x40' track with 25 timing on the motor, it's very fast. I would only use a 6.55 FDR if i was running 17.5 with timing from the ESC.

If your car is braking loose in the back there are setup issue. Ask some of the fast guys at your track for setup help or check out one of the setups on Hanulec's Wiki page, try Larry's Gate 2009 or Schreffler's 2010 Snowbirds setup. Either are pretty good the only mods i've made are; long wheel base front and back, bell crank forward, and i use sway bars 1.4mm front and back.

Either that or your using a spool up front which can make the rear break loose if your not easy on the throttle coming out of the turn. Front spools take some time to get use to. For a beginner i would recommend a ball diff up front until you feel comfortable driving the car.

http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon
You are correct I'm using a spool in the front. No one, on the track running the TOP. But they have given me suggestions such as, loosening the rear diff. Witch helps. But my two counter partners are runing gear ratio 6.24 and 7.15. They really crank on the in field also run really good on the back strait. Im sure there timming is cranked up. Know having it this tall that will make me slow in the in field, no? With not having any power not sure how it will do? I can check and see what i have in the box. I know i don't have an 88 spur. Know would a gear diff help in the front? I have two complete gear diff with one spare kit to rebuild them. Just have not had a change to compair or get use to car. This next time will be the 5th time out.
Know the thunder power rep also recommended that I hook up a heat sink and fan on motor. He said it would probably run hot. Know I'm not sure if this is the way I want to set up a motor to start by running it hot. It seems like the higher the gearing the less bottom end I would have, no? Are you running a fan on your motor?
I did receive an answer back they send me to this web page, I tested the motor and it check out ok. I receive my other motor speed passion and tested it also. Check out good, here's the web http://www.youtube.com/watch?y=M02Mf...&feature=g-upl
Thank you for all your help bkspeedo
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:58 AM   #8886
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I think your fdr is way out. I think you will need to be mid 3's to be honest. with regards to set-up, what tires are you using? Is there condition OK? What cleaning methods do you do? U might find this to be the problem.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:00 PM   #8887
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Does anyone know off the top of their head if one of the spec R CVDs will work in the photon? I have the Spec R gear diffs in there but I am looking for the double jointed CVDs.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:11 PM   #8888
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http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Phot...ee_Drive_Axles
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Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
Does anyone know off the top of their head if one of the spec R CVDs will work in the photon? I have the Spec R gear diffs in there but I am looking for the double jointed CVDs.
Mike Hanulec offers alot of information on his wiki.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:14 PM   #8889
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Does anyone know off the top of their head if one of the spec R CVDs will work in the photon? I have the Spec R gear diffs in there but I am looking for the double jointed CVDs.
I am running the Yok.spec r cvd's with a stock top spool/outdrives (red aluminum) on my car. You need the wider hole xray castor blocks though.



http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon#Setups


"Atomic/Spec-R SPR001-BD C.V. Universal Swing Shaft (For YOKOMO BD5)
2mm shim added in between the T.O.P. Aluminum Spool Cups and the T.O.P. Photon Plastic Spool
Provides more "meat" on the blade to prevent breaking blades, and bending Aluminum Spool Cups"
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:19 PM   #8890
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You beat me to it Tony.

The wiki thread Mike has going has been a invaluable source of information for me.
Big thanks to Mike H. for taking all the time it takes to help us all out.

Wanted to add...You need to do the "pin mod" if you are running the older dcj's.. The early version of these axles were not very good in stock form.I am also running associated dogbone sliders. They are a better fit on the pins/cups.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:22 PM   #8891
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You beat me to it Tony.
Oh, I'm fast. A legend in my own mind. Haha. Have to agree that the wiki is very informative.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:20 PM   #8892
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Thanks for the responses guys. I will have a look at that when I get home.
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:29 PM   #8893
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Thanks for the responses guys. I will have a look at that when I get home.
Good luck with the crap metal spec-r garbage. I hear good things about the arrowmax products but haven't tried fitting them in a photon. I'm going to look at the reflex shafts although I fear they are made by spec-r (maybe they paid more than $0.1 for metal)
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:37 PM   #8894
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I think your fdr is way out. I think you will need to be mid 3's to be honest. with regards to set-up, what tires are you using? Is there condition OK? What cleaning methods do you do? U might find this to be the problem.
Maybe my app is wrong for calculating this. I have an app that is call "GEAR WIZARD" Toe Soft R/C car Gearing Wizard. I purchased it through the app store. It gives you car and make to choose from. What gearing are we talking, what pitch are we talking about? I know that with a 48P, (PITCH) 69T Spur and a 36T Pinion I will only be at 3.83.
Know I can go to a 39T pinion (48P) that will get me to 3.54. Wouldn't this heat up my motor? Wouldn't this also make me slow at the bottom? because how tall it is? Please give me gears 64P and 48P to get. When I talk ratio it's final drive ratio per car. Is that the same your saying? I'm just asking to make sure.
Thank you

Last edited by yogii; 05-08-2012 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:37 AM   #8895
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Maybe my app is wrong for calculating this. I have an app that is call "GEAR WIZARD" Toe Soft R/C car Gearing Wizard. I purchased it through the app store. It gives you car and make to choose from. What gearing are we talking, what pitch are we talking about? I know that with a 48P, (PITCH) 69T Spur and a 36T Pinion I will only be at 3.83.
Know I can go to a 39T pinion (48P) that will get me to 3.54. Wouldn't this heat up my motor? Wouldn't this also make me slow at the bottom? because how tall it is? Please give me gears 64P and 48P to get. When I talk ratio it's final drive ratio per car. Is that the same your saying? I'm just asking to make sure.
Thank you
They are talking about final drive. I would not worry about getting into the mid 3 for FDR. If you are getting to max speed on the straight, then you might think about lowering your FDR, but only if you are able to decrease your average lap. I found that driving with a 3.9 or 4.0 ratio was very hard. What I did was run a ballistic 17.5 that has a little more mechanical timing than some other motors. My FDR started at 6.0. What I found is that my average lap was faster with the higher FDR. Don't expect to be ballistically fast down the straight, but I did not have to slow down for the sweeper, which allowed me to carry more speed entering the infield. If I was a little better driver maybe I could have made up for the softness in the infield with a better set up on the car, but overall the extra speed on the straight made almost no difference in lap time.
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