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Old 04-23-2012, 03:05 AM   #8866
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Mike, why you prefer the xray ones over top?
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:38 AM   #8867
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Mike, why you prefer the xray ones over top?
In the states we race indoors on CRC click track and other hard border systems. The current (old) top steering blocks would break after a few hard hits. The Xray ones are a litttle beefier and can handle thd beating running on tight lanes.

From what I see the xray plastic blocks won't work unmodified in thd Photon EX so ill try the aluminum blocks initially while racing outdoors.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:57 AM   #8868
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Oh I see!!
We had an indoor race once and I used all my stock on c-hubs 0,2,4,6 left right!! Only ones who survived were those with alu c-hubs
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:02 AM   #8869
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Hinestly I've never run the stock c-hub as I've always been trying to run LCD/ecs style joints. The xray c-hubs are the gold standard in durability. I was happy these xray parts fit when I switched to the photon -- I had less spares to buy.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:38 AM   #8870
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The new Tamyia double jointed CVD's look nice and will work with the stock Photon c-hubs with just a little shaving of the inside side walls. They'll probably hold up better than the xRay ones as well, large pins holding them together.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:26 AM   #8871
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The new Tamyia double jointed CVD's look nice and will work with the stock Photon c-hubs with just a little shaving of the inside side walls. They'll probably hold up better than the xRay ones as well, large pins holding them together.
Can 10x5x4 bearings be used? Or only 3mm wide ones??

I'm also looking into the Reflex lcds for the TC 6.1. They are longer than 50mm ecs and top 44.5 mm shafts but shorter than top 46mm shafts.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:11 PM   #8872
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Can 10x5x4 bearings be used? Or only 3mm wide ones??

I'm also looking into the Reflex lcds for the TC 6.1. They are longer than 50mm ecs and top 44.5 mm shafts but shorter than top 46mm shafts.
Yes i did forget about that. You would need the 3mm thick bearings.
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:26 PM   #8873
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Smokin deal on my top
CEFX/TOP TOURING CAR
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:20 PM   #8874
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I hate to change the topic but can someone give me some info on what a good long lasting 17.5 motor would be. I purchased a Thunder Power 17.5 last September only too run it in 3 races and last night the motor had no top end. I thought my speed controller had lost itís bind with radio but that was not it. I always take 4 balance batteries to the race 1 to practice with, 2 too qualify with and 1 for the A main. Well the motor did great the 1st 2 qualifiers, but the final race it did 1 or 2 great practice laps and poof no top end. This morning I took motor apart couldít see anything wrong. Iím thinking itís in the timing bell. I have no means of testing this area, or even know what itís for. I have never adjusted the timing I left it ware it came on 20 degree mark. If you are thinking what speed controller Iím using, that would be the Tiken RS Pro. Any suggestions for a rookie. Thanks
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:48 PM   #8875
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I hate to change the topic but can someone give me some info on what a good long lasting 17.5 motor would be. I purchased a Thunder Power 17.5 last September only too run it in 3 races and last night the motor had no top end. I thought my speed controller had lost itís bind with radio but that was not it. I always take 4 balance batteries to the race 1 to practice with, 2 too qualify with and 1 for the A main. Well the motor did great the 1st 2 qualifiers, but the final race it did 1 or 2 great practice laps and poof no top end. This morning I took motor apart couldít see anything wrong. Iím thinking itís in the timing bell. I have no means of testing this area, or even know what itís for. I have never adjusted the timing I left it ware it came on 20 degree mark. If you are thinking what speed controller Iím using, that would be the Tiken RS Pro. Any suggestions for a rookie. Thanks
I would recommend the Team Epic Duo 3 17.5 motor or the RevTech 17.5. My experiences with these motors, in blinky and boosted class have been great. They are both very similar motors, but hold up to abuse very well. They do not overheat easily and are very competitive motors. A bonus is that they cost around $70-80. StormerHobbies has the Duo3 for $69.99.
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:29 PM   #8876
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I hate to change the topic but can someone give me some info on what a good long lasting 17.5 motor would be. I purchased a Thunder Power 17.5 last September only too run it in 3 races and last night the motor had no top end. I thought my speed controller had lost itís bind with radio but that was not it. I always take 4 balance batteries to the race 1 to practice with, 2 too qualify with and 1 for the A main. Well the motor did great the 1st 2 qualifiers, but the final race it did 1 or 2 great practice laps and poof no top end. This morning I took motor apart couldít see anything wrong. Iím thinking itís in the timing bell. I have no means of testing this area, or even know what itís for. I have never adjusted the timing I left it ware it came on 20 degree mark. If you are thinking what speed controller Iím using, that would be the Tiken RS Pro. Any suggestions for a rookie. Thanks
Most likely the Sensor board is bad, this can happen with any motor. I've been running 2 ThunderPower motors 3-4 race days a week since the beginning of January with no issues. I my opinion the TP 17.5 with a Green rotor is the faster motor I've ever used. Stick with it, there small, light weight, and run cooler than most.

FYI for TC 17.5 blinky run an FDR around 3.8 with timing set to 35 & a fan for a track size around 45x96ft, wicked fast.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:46 PM   #8877
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Thanks for the reply guys, that Thunder Power motor after coming off the track, was stone cold. I could if wanted wrap my hands around it and hold it forever. My rotor has no color to it other then silver. But I will try a Team Epic or Rev Tech
Thanks ones again
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:55 PM   #8878
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Most likely the Sensor board is bad, this can happen with any motor. I've been running 2 ThunderPower motors 3-4 race days a week since the beginning of January with no issues. I my opinion the TP 17.5 with a Green rotor is the faster motor I've ever used. Stick with it, there small, light weight, and run cooler than most.

FYI for TC 17.5 blinky run an FDR around 3.8 with timing set to 35 & a fan for a track size around 45x96ft, wicked fast.
Sorry what is TC 17.5 blinky? I know only one thing I love my TOP, I only hope I can get it dial in. I'm the only one at this track with one. I run Serpent 966 and 733 there so dial in. I hope soon I can push the TOP to higher limits.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:50 PM   #8879
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Sorry what is TC 17.5 blinky? I know only one thing I love my TOP, I only hope I can get it dial in. I'm the only one at this track with one. I run Serpent 966 and 733 there so dial in. I hope soon I can push the TOP to higher limits.
TC 17.5 Blinky is; Tour Car running a 17.5 turn motor using a Timing based ESC with no timing.

What class are you running at your track and what wind is the TP motor?
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:14 PM   #8880
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehqHQ...eature=g-all-u

Larry Fairtrace racing at iic!! They didn't show much of him on RCracing.tv but well done regardless.
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