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Old 10-22-2011, 02:21 PM   #8386
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hi there, i just recently bought photon. My car cannot go straight, i wonder what i should check out?
"trim" from the remote has already been tried to make the car go straight..but it didnt work out

thank you
Check turnbuckle/steering links are equal lengths
Check ya servo and servo saver

If cars second hand check there isn't a bent hinge pin etc

If it's new the front left C-hub is normally tight on the king pin collars and binds the steering knuckle take a drill bit the right size and lightly ream the hole in the C-hub with drill bit by hand till the king pin collars slide in easily
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:02 PM   #8387
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Photon EX WIN in Germany

A-main 10.5 Rd.1

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


A-main 10.5 Rd.2
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:24 PM   #8388
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What is the best body for this car?
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:25 PM   #8389
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What is the best body for this car?
Depends on your track size, motor size and blinky or boosted.

Slower classes seem to be running the Mazda6/Speed6 or LTCR. Faster seem to like the P37. Haven't seen a DNA or R9 since I can't remember when.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:30 PM   #8390
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Depends on your track size, motor size and blinky or boosted.
I have 2 tracks,

1 is med to large outdoor, 17.5 blinky, rubber tires
2 is small to med, carpet 17.5 blinky, rubber tires.


Also looking for a gearing for this car. I have a 88 spur, with Tekin 17.5 redline motor.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:34 PM   #8391
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I have 2 tracks,

1 is med to large outdoor, 17.5 blinky, rubber tires
2 is small to med, carpet 17.5 blinky, rubber tires.


Also looking for a gearing for this car. I have a 88 spur, with Tekin 17.5 redline motor.
Blinky start is around 4.0, boosted 6.0. Adjust based on temps and torque/rpm requirements. Check with some of the locals and see what FDR they're running.

At my local track (DRCW in VAB) we started outdoors this year with 4.0, by the end of this season, some of the guys are running in the 3.2's with high-normal motor temps.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:37 PM   #8392
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Blinky start is around 4.0, boosted 6.0. Adjust based on temps and torque/rpm requirements. Check with some of the locals and see what FDR they're running.

At my local track (DRCW in VAB) we started outdoors this year with 4.0, by the end of this season, some of the guys are running in the 3.2's with high-normal motor temps.
That helps a lot, what about the body, which one do you guys run down there?
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:43 PM   #8393
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That helps a lot, what about the body, which one do you guys run down there?
Slower classes seem to be running the Mazda6/Speed6 or LTCR. Faster seem to like the P37. Haven't seen a DNA or R9 since I can't remember when. Bottom line, run what you want, each has it's advantages and limits.

There's less than a 1/2 second split average lap time per driver between blinky and boosted at our track, so you can see that the blinky 17.5s are almost as fast as the boosted. I personally have run a P37 all summer and don't feel as though I'm giving up anything. I have as much grip and as much speed in blinky as anyone else out there, it's just my driving that sucks in an EPIC manner! If you come for our Halloween race, you'll see what I mean.

ETA: just checked my car, and I'm running 86/53 (3.25FDR) 4 dot insert X12 blinky Tekin, coming off the track at 180ish with ambient air temps at/near 100 this summer. I KNOW that there are cars geared a lot higher than mine, though! Now that it's getting cooler, might see some crazy rediculous FDRs, which may work, as long as you can carry the corner speed on the infield!
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Last edited by Buckaroo; 10-23-2011 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:04 PM   #8394
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ETA: What does 4 dot insert X12 blinky mean? I am running the Tekin Redline 17.5t motor. Should I gear it about the same?
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:12 PM   #8395
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ETA: What does 4 dot insert X12 blinky mean?
Minimal mechanical timing. X12s run VERY hot compared to all other motors (2S sweet spot seems to be between 170 and 200ish) and timing is controlled through small plastic inserts. The 4 dot insert = 27.5degrees, or basically zero/fully retarded.

Most motors today are built with the zero line being 30ish degrees of resident mechanical timing.
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:52 PM   #8396
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What is the ideal weight for this car?

If I put the car on scales what should each side and end be?
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:25 PM   #8397
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What is the ideal weight for this car?

If I put the car on scales what should each side and end be?
as low as possible . i used to waste a lot of time trying to balance out my car w/ scales/etc -- thinking about having more weight in the outside "sweeper" front tire but at the end of the day it really isn't worth it. things are just relative. making sure the car is balanced left to right is important -- and moving your speedo or battery in/out a few millimeters can really make a difference between adding additional unnecessary weight just to get the car to balance.

instead of worrying about weight balance i'd ask the question - have you rebuilt your shocks recently (and replaced the o-rings)? this is WAY more important to getting your car to handle consistently.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:57 PM   #8398
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instead of worrying about weight balance i'd ask the question - have you rebuilt your shocks recently (and replaced the o-rings)? this is WAY more important to getting your car to handle consistently.
You have a thing for "o-rings"? Does your "o-ring" leak all the time?


Really what is the issue with the o-rings that your replacing them all the time? How do you think it's affecting your car?
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:26 PM   #8399
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The orings swell and bind up your shocks. Simple as that.

Maybe Larry can chime in about his IIC 2009 experience with orings and failure ..
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Old 10-26-2011, 04:11 AM   #8400
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Ok since spec-r esc drive shafts have such a bad rep, has anyone heard of or tried the arrowmax esc shafts. I found them for the tamiya 417. I just don't want to spend $50.00 per shaft to buy the x-ray ones.
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