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Old 08-15-2011, 04:56 AM   #8101
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Originally Posted by calif_bouncer View Post
WHATS THE FASTEST FIX FOR LOWERING/RASISNG THE ROLL CENTER I TQED AND WON THE 17.5 MAIN TODAY BUT IM DRAGGIN THE OUTSIDE EDGES OF THE CHASSIS! IM RUNNIG 5MM FRONT AND 5.5 MM REAR RIDE HIEGHTS
I don't understand your question. Do you want to:
1- change the roll centers (setup)
2- prevent the car from dragging (try raising ride height to 5.25f/5.75r-- but otherwise cars drag)
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:23 AM   #8102
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The chassis 'will' drag the edges, I don't think there is a lot of ways to stop it completely depending on your setup, mine does it more since I stopped running a rear bar, ideal/fast setups always seem create the most wear on things.

Right now my Photon has been quite good, but man it throws off serious sparks from screws in 2-3 corners, and my motor is being ground down nicely, for the speed it will carry I can't complain.
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:48 PM   #8103
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i am new to tc as well as to the photon. i am currently running in the 17.5 blinky class. i am running the d3 motor with 6 degrees endbell timing. i am also running a venom 5000 mah 30c battery. questioning the other drivers they are all running an fdr of 3.8 - 4.0 i am at 3.91 with a 45 /88.
i am getting smoked at the 50 foot mark on the 100 foot straight. on the end of the straight is a right hand sweeper that really carries a lot of speed so by the time we hit the 2nd right hander i have really lost a lot of ground. even though we can come out of final corner side by side..... my question is what am i missing ... would going to a battery with a higher discharge rate make that much difference in this class ? or is there something else i may be missing? also running an rs pro.
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:31 PM   #8104
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Could be battery, but you would have to try a few to be sure.

Having a free running drivetrain can make a big difference. There may be some binding of the layshaft bearings if the shims are even slightly over the edge of the layshaft. When you tighten up the screws, it can push the shims into the bearings. You should probably check all of the bearings though, Especially the outer wheel bearings. Also check that the camber link plates aren't squeezing the bearing cams. On one of my cars I shim all the camber plates. My other photon doesn't need any shimming.

Most guys are probably cranking the endbell timing all the way up or close to all the way. I think each notch represents 8 degrees on a D3.

How hot is your motor after a race?
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:48 PM   #8105
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Could be battery, but you would have to try a few to be sure.

Having a free running drivetrain can make a big difference. There may be some binding of the layshaft bearings if the shims are even slightly over the edge of the layshaft. When you tighten up the screws, it can push the shims into the bearings. You should probably check all of the bearings though, Especially the outer wheel bearings. Also check that the camber link plates aren't squeezing the bearing cams. On one of my cars I shim all the camber plates. My other photon doesn't need any shimming.

Most guys are probably cranking the endbell timing all the way up or close to all the way. I think each notch represents 8 degrees on a D3.

How hot is your motor after a race?
there are no shims on the layshaft....will check into that in the a.m., i will also check the link plates. i would assume to check these, just remove the link plates and check to see if driveline is more free than with them in place. i will also look into replacing the bearings as a set then i would have some spares. i have only raced this car twice, but i did buy it used...
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:56 PM   #8106
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Crank the endbell timing and hang on. If it blows smoke that is too much gear.. nut being walked on a straight is not fun.

U might want to invest in revtech 60c packs.. they are the best.
For motors a thunder power or revtech are better than the d3
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:58 PM   #8107
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there are no shims on the layshaft....will check into that in the a.m., i will also check the link plates. i would assume to check these, just remove the link plates and check to see if driveline is more free than with them in place. i will also look into replacing the bearings as a set then i would have some spares. i have only raced this car twice, but i did buy it used...
if there are no shims on the layshaft, then the spur and pulleys would have a fair bit of lateral play.

To check the camber plates, take the screws out, then place the plate back on the bulkhead and see if it rocks on the bearing cam or if it sits flush.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:02 PM   #8108
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thanks locked.....
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:34 PM   #8109
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For everyone who purchased one of the aluminum steering bellcrank pieces from me, I was unaware at the time of the alloy inserts for this. Allthough the plastic inserts fit fine, these alloy inserts will not quite fit. I am now finishing up another run of these and I have a set of the inserts thanks to Michael at Top USA. I have also eliminated the use of the hex nut by incorporating a 3mm tapped hole in it's place. For those of you who already have these, if you would like to exchange yours for the new version, if you send me yours back, I will ship you the new one for half of the Prioriy Mail shipping fee or I will cover 1st class mail. His is something that got by me and I believe needs to be taken care of. PM or email me if you have any questions or conserns.
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:36 PM   #8110
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Larry - I got to run the bellcrank last Saturday. They came out really nice
Thank you for making them.
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:48 PM   #8111
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Originally Posted by team_tamale View Post
For everyone who purchased one of the aluminum steering bellcrank pieces from me, I was unaware at the time of the alloy inserts for this. Allthough the plastic inserts fit fine, these alloy inserts will not quite fit. I am now finishing up another run of these and I have a set of the inserts thanks to Michael at Top USA. I have also eliminated the use of the hex nut by incorporating a 3mm tapped hole in it's place. For those of you who already have these, if you would like to exchange yours for the new version, if you send me yours back, I will ship you the new one for half of the Prioriy Mail shipping fee or I will cover 1st class mail. His is something that got by me and I believe needs to be taken care of. PM or email me if you have any questions or conserns.
Just paid for 3 of those bad boys.
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Old 08-17-2011, 05:59 PM   #8112
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I'll probably just order a couple more of the new batch rather than send mine back. I did manage to get an alloy insert to fit in one, with a little work. I might not be able to remove it so easily though. I think I made that one a permanent #9

The tapped hole will be a nice touch.

I really can't repeat enough how much I appreciate that you made these, team_tamale. The first batch may not have been absolutely perfect, but they're pretty close, so I'm perfectly happy to just pay you for 2 more when you get the new ones done. Also, I just don't want to race without them now if I had to wait for the new ones
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Old 08-18-2011, 03:36 AM   #8113
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Hello Racer,
has someone a Setup for the Exotek Chassis ?
And what should i look at, while building ist whit the East Coast Servo Mount ?
Thanks for your answers,
Pierre
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:36 AM   #8114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
Crank the endbell timing and hang on. If it blows smoke that is too much gear.. nut being walked on a straight is not fun.

U might want to invest in revtech 60c packs.. they are the best.
For motors a thunder power or revtech are better than the d3
haven't seen the rev tech on the track yet, but hear dyno numbers are silly . . .
didn't the D3 finish 1st,2cd 3rd and TQ the asphalt nats in 17.5???
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:14 PM   #8115
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haven't seen the rev tech on the track yet, but hear dyno numbers are silly . . .
didn't the D3 finish 1st,2cd 3rd and TQ the asphalt nats in 17.5???
Yeah but those d3 were slow. Just ask scooby
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