Originally Posted by Jerry P
Things sure are quiet in here when Hanulec isn't around.
Originally Posted by stiltskin
Do you mean the thread, or the East Coast?
Virginia State Series race tomorrow at Debbies RC World. Gonna find out if the Nats setup works well down here.
Its nice to be missed.
I've posted THE setup (a.k.a. The Larry) from the 2011 ROAR Paved On-Road Nats at http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon#Setups
. Some minor variation of this setup was on my and Larry's cars all weekend. He was running a bit more front droop -- something that I added for main's day and it helped a ton.
Droop measurements are done via:
1- car on float board with front bumper, and stocks disconnected from lower arms
2- hang the end of the car you are looking to measure just off the flat board
3- using a thin/narrow ride height gauge measure right under the c-hub and rear hubs. too wide of the ride height gauge catches the curves within the arms thus making the settings incorrect. we are using the speedmind precision ride height gauge pn RG-10. other gauges can work -- but they need to be about 10mm wide. i know the dynamite red gauge is too wide.
Performing droop measurement via this method is SUPER EASY but only works well if/when you aren't changing your arm mounts.
Speaking of arm mounts -- PLEASE make sure to check the arm mounts a lot. Two potential issues:
1- Recently I switched to the red aluminum arm mount inserts and I found that after a BIG hit (where a 16 or 20mm screw would bend) that the aluminum arm mount bends too. I've tossed about 6 of these so far ... oops!
2- The plastic arm mount inserts wear/stretch after taking a bunch of hits. You'll see that the plastic has a bunch of play with the metal arm mount inserts. Play within these plastic parts changes pin height and effects droop settings. Doh!
Moral of the story -- stop hitting sh*t