9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
08-03-2011, 03:23 AM
#8071
If anyone runs VTA with their Photon, I swapped cars for the main because the car I had been running was getting slower with more traction, I run the same setup that Hanulec runs, I just threw on my tires, body, 21.5 and didn't even change the ride height and the car was really good.
08-03-2011, 06:33 AM
#8072
Thanks Tony 
I didn't try running compound on my tires that weekend, I see that most other were, not sure it it would have been better or not, I've had mixed results it it in the past, but that was usually at parkinglot tracks, not a prepped track.
I didn't try running compound on my tires that weekend, I see that most other were, not sure it it would have been better or not, I've had mixed results it it in the past, but that was usually at parkinglot tracks, not a prepped track.
08-07-2011, 06:54 PM
#8076
I've posted THE setup (a.k.a. The Larry) from the 2011 ROAR Paved On-Road Nats at http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon#Setups . Some minor variation of this setup was on my and Larry's cars all weekend. He was running a bit more front droop -- something that I added for main's day and it helped a ton.
Droop measurements are done via:
1- car on float board with front bumper, and stocks disconnected from lower arms
2- hang the end of the car you are looking to measure just off the flat board
3- using a thin/narrow ride height gauge measure right under the c-hub and rear hubs. too wide of the ride height gauge catches the curves within the arms thus making the settings incorrect. we are using the speedmind precision ride height gauge pn RG-10. other gauges can work -- but they need to be about 10mm wide. i know the dynamite red gauge is too wide.
Performing droop measurement via this method is SUPER EASY but only works well if/when you aren't changing your arm mounts.
Speaking of arm mounts -- PLEASE make sure to check the arm mounts a lot. Two potential issues:
1- Recently I switched to the red aluminum arm mount inserts and I found that after a BIG hit (where a 16 or 20mm screw would bend) that the aluminum arm mount bends too. I've tossed about 6 of these so far ... oops!
2- The plastic arm mount inserts wear/stretch after taking a bunch of hits. You'll see that the plastic has a bunch of play with the metal arm mount inserts. Play within these plastic parts changes pin height and effects droop settings. Doh!
Moral of the story -- stop hitting sh*t
Last edited by hanulec; 08-07-2011 at 06:57 PM. Reason: notes about ride height gauges
what until we get indoors.
08-08-2011, 08:51 PM
#8079
i cannot tell you what the 'built' shocks are -- but the shock w/o the cap & bladder I build to be 49.5mm long. this is measured from the bottom of the screwed on ball end to the top of the threads on the shock body before filling w/ oil.
there is an extra 'nub' on the bottom of the TOP shock shafts that you'll need to cut off when running rubber tires.
the only reason i know the measurement of 49.5mm off the top of my head is because i always reset my shocks to this length so i can try different oil/piston combos and swap different sets of shocks together with one another. i've also been taught to be ANAL about replacing o-rings.... as we've seen too many failures by folks who haven't regularly replaced their o-rings.
there is an extra 'nub' on the bottom of the TOP shock shafts that you'll need to cut off when running rubber tires.
the only reason i know the measurement of 49.5mm off the top of my head is because i always reset my shocks to this length so i can try different oil/piston combos and swap different sets of shocks together with one another. i've also been taught to be ANAL about replacing o-rings.... as we've seen too many failures by folks who haven't regularly replaced their o-rings.
08-08-2011, 08:57 PM
#8080
i cannot tell you what the 'built' shocks are -- but the shock w/o the cap & bladder I build to be 49.5mm long. this is measured from the bottom of the screwed on ball end to the top of the threads on the shock body before filling w/ oil.
there is an extra 'nub' on the bottom of the TOP shock shafts that you'll need to cut off when running rubber tires.
there is an extra 'nub' on the bottom of the TOP shock shafts that you'll need to cut off when running rubber tires.
With droop screws fully backed off i am getting 14mm ride height at full extension. Using the correct short shock bottom.
BTW this is not on a Photon, but a related project.
I recall reading about the discussions of where the piston is in the shock body, that when the piston is higher, you will get less pack, and hence less stability. I was working on a friends TCX and noticed that the shocks are all but completely bottomed out when using a regular 3mm over ride height droop.
08-09-2011, 04:55 AM
#8083
08-09-2011, 05:42 AM
#8084
Its very easy with a Dremel. Just cut right below the threads and grind the edges a little bit afterwards
08-09-2011, 05:43 AM
#8085
Tech Adept