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Old 07-22-2011, 10:02 AM   #7996
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And the EJ and exotek are the same or what

thanks

Andy
They are similar. The exotek because of material thickness is softer with more flex.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:09 AM   #7997
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Default Gods Of Tweak

Please help,
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.

Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.

THANKS!!
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:40 AM   #7998
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Originally Posted by souporsalad View Post
Please help,
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.

Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.

THANKS!!
Do you have a flat pitboard or piece of glass to use? if so, take the chassis completely off and lay it on the flat surface, then tap the corners lightly and see if ti rocks, you can also eyeball the edges to see any gaps. With use and abuse it probably won't be perfect, but if it's close, you can still use it.

Next put it back together and make sure you leave the "wings" that connect the lower bulkheads loose. Once the bottom screws are tight, with the top deck and wing screws check it on the flatboard again, then slowly tighten the top deck and wing screws.

Chances are your roll center blocks are tweaked if the car has taken a few good hits, check your arms, if the seem to have excessive play in the mounts, change the screws and the blocks.
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Old 07-22-2011, 10:41 AM   #7999
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Originally Posted by souporsalad View Post
Please help,
I'm an old Pan Car guy that is just getting back in to the sport. I have two photons (which are rad). I'm having a blast and learning lots of things. Chassis tweak is a new thing to me. To get to the point; The older of my cars is set up for VTA, which can be brutal some nights. I'm getting ready for a race tomorrow and was setting it up on my Hudy setup station to get it adjusted. I noticed right away that my flatness check was an epic failure. It seems like the bottom of the car is shaped like a soccer ball. I followed all of the directions to make sure that I had everything, that was appropriate, disconnected. Also tried loosening the upper deck, flattening and retightening. No luck. I would guess that I just need to set the car on a fresh chassis plate (thanks TOP for including both chassis in the new model), but wanted to ask if there were any comments from any of you. The car took a severe hit last weekend, and I hadn't checked flatness for a while, so that could be it.

Any comments will be greatly appreciated, whether it's tips, things to check, or causes for chassis warpage.

THANKS!!
I would start checking the bulkheads and make sure they are not tweaked or twisted. If the chassis is bowed (not flat) and you have loosened the top deck and tried to correct the problem that way, I would say this is the next step. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2011, 06:14 PM   #8000
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Let run this by you guys. Being bored and with a hyperextended knee. I was thinktanking about how to use Xrays gear diff with their ecs drives with the least amount of parts that I have. I figure that I need the gear diff (dah), Xrays 305432 front belt and 3Racing's Sakua 19t center pulley gear.

My concern will be the 19/20 center gear combo. Will this create a over/under drive?

I know it would be easier and cheaper to just Dremel the outdrives on my spare Yokomo gear diff but I don't want o weaken the outdrives.

Tell me what you think or any changes to it.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:25 AM   #8001
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Any good tips for on building this car?

things to watchout for?

Cheers
Jason
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Old 07-23-2011, 04:06 AM   #8002
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Any good tips for on building this car?

things to watchout for?

Cheers
Jason
Check out my wiki
http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:31 AM   #8003
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Originally Posted by vabroom View Post
Let run this by you guys. Being bored and with a hyperextended knee. I was thinktanking about how to use Xrays gear diff with their ecs drives with the least amount of parts that I have. I figure that I need the gear diff (dah), Xrays 305432 front belt and 3Racing's Sakua 19t center pulley gear.

My concern will be the 19/20 center gear combo. Will this create a over/under drive?

I know it would be easier and cheaper to just Dremel the outdrives on my spare Yokomo gear diff but I don't want o weaken the outdrives.

Tell me what you think or any changes to it.
If you are running a front gear diff, the ECS's are a waste, the diff will equalise the speed and eliminate the chatter. The spool/ECS combo seems to carry a bit more corner speed, I changed over recently after running a front gear diff for 6 months. If you want the spool/ECS combo, get the Mira outdrives from sidepiece racing, they make it a drop in affair. (along with xray chubs).
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Old 07-23-2011, 02:41 PM   #8004
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Cad pics of what the aluminum front bellcrank piece will look like.
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T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-bellcrank-1.png   T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-bellcrank-2.png  
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Old 07-23-2011, 02:51 PM   #8005
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Looks really good Larry!
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:54 PM   #8006
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Cad pics of what the aluminum front bellcrank piece will look like.
I will get two when they are ready.
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Old 07-23-2011, 04:02 PM   #8007
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Default cranks

I would be interested in two.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:03 PM   #8008
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Originally Posted by team_tamale View Post
Cad pics of what the aluminum front bellcrank piece will look like.
Nice. I'll take two. I'm not sure if you noticed the post about making it a bit smaller at the very front, but a lot of guys like the farthest forward position and have to shave down the front face of this part to prevent it from hitting the spool pulley. You just have to take maybe half of a millimeter off the front side.
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:40 PM   #8009
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If you will post two Australia I will take 1
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Old 07-23-2011, 07:49 PM   #8010
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Do you have a flat pitboard or piece of glass to use? if so, take the chassis completely off and lay it on the flat surface, then tap the corners lightly and see if ti rocks, you can also eyeball the edges to see any gaps. With use and abuse it probably won't be perfect, but if it's close, you can still use it.

Next put it back together and make sure you leave the "wings" that connect the lower bulkheads loose. Once the bottom screws are tight, with the top deck and wing screws check it on the flatboard again, then slowly tighten the top deck and wing screws.

Chances are your roll center blocks are tweaked if the car has taken a few good hits, check your arms, if the seem to have excessive play in the mounts, change the screws and the blocks.
Ok, Sorry for the delayed response, but here is what I found....
Before posted last, all I had done to the bottom of the plate was a general look and removed old tape goobers. I decided that before I tore the car apart that should look closer at the bottom of the car. I right away noticed two screws in the center of the car that had burrs from where they were beginning to strip. When I took a straight edge sanding stick to the car, I found that most of the countersunk screws did not sit flush, or below the surface. In my opinion, it seems like most of the screw openings on the aluminum components werent tapped square....OR, maybe the countersinking on the plate is not precise, but more likely the screws (pretty poor quality on the older model). Maybe some of you have seen this. I cant imagine another reason for these not seating properly. In summary, I sanded the heads as much as I could with a light grit nail sanding stick, and the cars sits pretty flat now. Not perfect, but good enough for a VTA car. The car runs like a champ, enough for a rusty retiree to take second in our Cup race today.

Side note - I have noticed that many things seem to be of better quality and construction on the Photon I bought last month, versus my two year old. I check flatness on the new car I run in 17.5 regularly with no issues.
Shame on me for not catching this sooner.

Thanks everyone again for your insight, I'm learning tons right now and am having a blast!

Soup
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