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Old 05-22-2011, 08:36 AM   #7576
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
used on Carpet or Asphalt?
because, on carpet, I have try this Chassis(I narrowed old Lipo 2mm) and it work really bad!
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what do mean very bad ... not stiff enough ?
I used the 2.5 mm lipo chassis. Even after narrowing it, it is stiffer than the current lipo chassis.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:20 AM   #7577
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I used the 2.5 mm lipo chassis. Even after narrowing it, it is stiffer than the current lipo chassis.
I did not know there was 2.5mm!
I thought only 2mm and 3mm
eh, then the question changes!
how come you do haven't drilled the lipo side?
for the same dx-sx flex
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:39 AM   #7578
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
I did not know there was 2.5mm!
I thought only 2mm and 3mm
eh, then the question changes!
how come you do haven't drilled the lipo side?
for the same dx-sx flex
I haven't had too much time with the chassis but haven't seen any ill handling effects yet. Maybe I'll do some more cutting after a few more runs.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:40 AM   #7579
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Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
I used the 2.5 mm lipo chassis. Even after narrowing it, it is stiffer than the current lipo chassis.
+1
the base stiff lipo chassis that ships with the current batch of cars is VERY good. it works on carpet and asphalt (both with rubber tires). if you look where the car 'drags' on the track you can think about places on that chassis that it might make sense to 'self-optimize' the chassis with a Dremel and cut-off wheel.

this is one of the more extreme narrowing that i've seen. prior to this, Martin Crisp had done something as dramatic as this. it sure does make mounting electronics a little more difficult though...
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:22 AM   #7580
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What is the "theory" behind a narrow chassis working better? Is it just that the chassis does not rub on the surface?

I'm one of the lucky few that was able to grab a narrow chassis from EJ. It is amazing how much easier the car is to drive with it.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:28 AM   #7581
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What is the "theory" behind a narrow chassis working better? Is it just that the chassis does not rub on the surface?

I'm one of the lucky few that was able to grab a narrow chassis from EJ. It is amazing how much easier the car is to drive with it.
i believe it is all about chassis rub and scrub marks. indoors you'll see marks from carpet, and outdoors you'll see scrapes against the chassis. i've been running the EJ chassis in 13.5T outdoors and you'll see a nearly perfect 'scrub' on the entire chassis edge. with the stock stiff chassis (which i run in modified) there is a much greater scrub at the front sides of the chassis, and there is less scrub marks at the rear sides.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:54 AM   #7582
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Damn all you guys with the prototype narrow chassis :P

I tried to get Martin's when he switched to orange. I contacted him the weekend after, but he had already sold it.

Cyrul, if you are reading this, make some more of those narrow chassis and sell them through cefxspeedshop. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants one. I actually want two of them.
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:42 PM   #7583
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Damn all you guys with the prototype narrow chassis :P

I tried to get Martin's when he switched to orange. I contacted him the weekend after, but he had already sold it.

Cyrul, if you are reading this, make some more of those narrow chassis and sell them through cefxspeedshop. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants one. I actually want two of them.
Exotek's site lists a narrow photon chassis coming soon, hopefully very soon, I need 2 as well.
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:46 PM   #7584
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Exotek's site lists a narrow photon chassis coming soon, hopefully very soon, I need 2 as well.
I have seen the first proto-type first hand (I can't wait for the production version)
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Old 05-23-2011, 12:16 AM   #7585
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hey guys i want to trade my photon for a team magic e4rs if you know anyone that want to trade let me know please
it has lots of upgrades on it

trade roller for roller


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Old 05-23-2011, 07:28 AM   #7586
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
Damn all you guys with the prototype narrow chassis :P

I tried to get Martin's when he switched to orange. I contacted him the weekend after, but he had already sold it.

Cyrul, if you are reading this, make some more of those narrow chassis and sell them through cefxspeedshop. I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants one. I actually want two of them.
I have a Cyrul chassis. I noticed that it did not work for me. I switched back to the six cell and now it works.... .

PM me with a offer if you want to buy one. As I may stick with the six cell.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:43 AM   #7587
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Does anyone have trouble getting enough steering out of the car?

Everything was okay until we changed to a more technical track. I couldnt get enough right steering. I was told by another Top driver that my tie rod between the servo and the crank was too long.

Every other car I ever had always had too much steering. Currently I am at 100% Dual rate and 150% right travel.

I am going to go through the car tonight to see if I can find any reason this is happening.

Any insight on where to start would be great,


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Old 05-23-2011, 10:01 AM   #7588
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Originally Posted by gruman28 View Post
Does anyone have trouble getting enough steering out of the car?

Everything was okay until we changed to a more technical track. I couldnt get enough right steering. I was told by another Top driver that my tie rod between the servo and the crank was too long.

Every other car I ever had always had too much steering. Currently I am at 100% Dual rate and 150% right travel.

I am going to go through the car tonight to see if I can find any reason this is happening.

Any insight on where to start would be great,


Thanks
Chris
I had some simular issues, then when fitting a new low profile digital servo, I made a real effort to sort it out, in the end it comes down to position of the servo horn (look carefully how the manual shows it), and getting that linkage the right length etc.

Tweaked mine also in a setup station once done, and now I have perfect steering throw left to right (with no real tweaks needed on the radio), and generally more steering than I need at any time, I'll just dial my DR knob on the fly to suit track conditions and how much steering I need on the day.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:10 AM   #7589
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Originally Posted by gruman28 View Post
Does anyone have trouble getting enough steering out of the car?

Everything was okay until we changed to a more technical track. I couldnt get enough right steering. I was told by another Top driver that my tie rod between the servo and the crank was too long.

Every other car I ever had always had too much steering. Currently I am at 100% Dual rate and 150% right travel.

I am going to go through the car tonight to see if I can find any reason this is happening.

Any insight on where to start would be great,


Thanks
Chris
Do you have the kingzhead bellcrank? it helps to dremel the bulkhead where the arm can hit it, you can get some extra throw, that in addition to making sure the link isn't binding up on your servo saver preventing the arm from moving all the way.
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:18 AM   #7590
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Lol must be running asfault. I had same problem . I am running the newer lipo chassis. Running med/low role centers on all corners. Front shocks 324 out 1 hole. Narrow as possible in front and no sway bar.
In rear I have 1mm shim in front and 3.5mm in rear for toe. Shocks r in 2 holes with 306 springs and no sway bar. I'm running the #11 akerman insert out 1 mark . Out side links r in inner hole of nuckle. Run-in #2 on all 4 camber plates. Also I have the newest lipo topdeck with only 4 outer screws in it. After balancing my car I added 1/2oz under belt as far to rear as I could.(right front of pinion) . It went from pushing like a doze to being on the edge of loose with this setting. 2 other photon drivers using same set up now and we all love it . But I will say still don't have turn around radius of T3. But more than enough for 10'-14' lanes outdoor tracks
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