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Old 03-30-2011, 05:56 AM   #7321
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I Think your screws were better.
Countersunks`s were a little bit to unstable and tourn around very fast, becaus of the little inbus.

Last edited by cuberider09; 03-30-2011 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:25 PM   #7322
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Old 03-30-2011, 01:27 PM   #7323
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I have used ca glue from time to time. I recently just switched to regular ball ends and ball studs up front only.
Which ones did you use?
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:24 PM   #7324
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Which ones did you use?
Losi because I had them around and I think the M3 threads were too big if I remember right.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:14 AM   #7325
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Default Low grip track - Remove wings?

Race on a low grip concrete on rubber tyres 17.5 & mod.

I have the 'stiff' lipo chassis.
Thinking of removing the chassis wings to increase flex / improve grip.

Has anyone tried this? Would appreciate the feedback please.

Thanks

Alan
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:36 AM   #7326
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Originally Posted by mazmo View Post
Race on a low grip concrete on rubber tyres 17.5 & mod.

I have the 'stiff' lipo chassis.
Thinking of removing the chassis wings to increase flex / improve grip.

Has anyone tried this? Would appreciate the feedback please.

Thanks

Alan
I havent ran on concrete but you would think your going to want more flex. You need the old 6 cell chassis!!! Thats why I plan on running out doors this summer.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:36 AM   #7327
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Race on a low grip concrete on rubber tyres 17.5 & mod.

I have the 'stiff' lipo chassis.
Thinking of removing the chassis wings to increase flex / improve grip.

Has anyone tried this? Would appreciate the feedback please.

Thanks

Alan

Simple answer = yes
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:40 AM   #7328
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Can some one point me to a asphalt parking lot stock car set-up please?
And a Tekin Stock ESC setup would be most welcomed also....

THX in advance....
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Last edited by Nova F1 Racer; 03-31-2011 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 03-31-2011, 07:42 AM   #7329
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Just remove the riser from the outer point of the wing. If u remove the entire wing with nothing to connect the car to the top deck it will bow the chassis and pop belts off
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:37 AM   #7330
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Default pulley problem

hello, can you please help me with something asap. i am trying to change the stripped spur gear and i cant get it out. i have alloy 20T center pulley (not the plastic one). How do i get the red center pulley shaft out? its stuck. i hear you guys saying use the black shaft in the forum but before i can use that i need to take red one out. where do i get it? i really need to do it asap.

ok now if i decide to go with black shaft, what parts can i reuse? i see parts in use are:

1. 20t center pulley
2. pulley shaft (red or blac)
3. 5x10x4 bearings
4. screws
5. Mold L-07-1 spacers (i dont even know where i can get these. i dont see it anywhere)
6. spur gear


ok. so whats my next step. with above parts in hand and extra black pulley shaft. where can i see how to fit it ? (basically step 7 from manual). how does the step 7 in manual change with new black pulley shaft in picture? does new black pulley have have threads inside like red one to screw it up? does anything change because of my alloy 20T center pulley (not the plastic one). Please help.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:56 AM   #7331
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Originally Posted by neupane00 View Post
hello, can you please help me with something asap. i am trying to change the stripped spur gear and i cant get it out. i have alloy 20T center pulley (not the plastic one). How do i get the red center pulley shaft out? its stuck. i hear you guys saying use the black shaft in the forum but before i can use that i need to take red one out. where do i get it? i really need to do it asap.

ok now if i decide to go with black shaft, what parts can i reuse? i see parts in use are:

1. 20t center pulley
2. pulley shaft (red or blac)
3. 5x10x4 bearings
4. screws
5. Mold L-07-1 spacers (i dont even know where i can get these. i dont see it anywhere)
6. spur gear


ok. so whats my next step. with above parts in hand and extra black pulley shaft. where can i see how to fit it ? (basically step 7 from manual). how does the step 7 in manual change with new black pulley shaft in picture? does new black pulley have have threads inside like red one to screw it up? does anything change because of my alloy 20T center pulley (not the plastic one). Please help.
To remove the bearings and disassemble the 20 tooth pulley you will have to grind the od of the red shaft, it has become enlarged from tightening the screws. Then you can build your new 20t assembly with the Alloy pulley on the steel (black) shaft. You can reuse the 5x10x4 bearings or replace with new. The steel shaft uses the same screws and the red one. The Mold L-07-1 plastic spacers come with the kit plastic 20t pulley, and not separately. Because of the tab on the steel shaft the spacing will be different, you can use one of the plastic spacers (Mold L-07-1) and sand the other one thin enough to space the shaft properly. Alternately, you can use one of the plastic spacers and some metal shims to space the pulley, or all metal shims, just make sure that in either case that there is a little free play so the bearings spin freely. For metal shims the TOP Racing # PA-100507 shim set will work great. Reuse the spur gear or replace
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Old 03-31-2011, 12:47 PM   #7332
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Regarding more flex for low grip surfaces Steven Weiss left away the inner top deck screws as well as the middle screws of each bulkhead. This shoul give you the more flex you might want. If itīs not enaugh: you can change the single screw in the motor mount to a set screw only to fix the position to the chassis without making it stiffer cause of the screw. You can even grind of the bulkhead where you left away the middle screw so that the bulk doesnīt touch the chassis at this point. If that is not enought, too, change to the moderate lipo chassis

By the way: We have a facebook group around Steven Weiss: itīs called: "T.O.P Racing" Sadly I donīt know facebook well enough to give you a link to this group...
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Old 03-31-2011, 12:58 PM   #7333
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thank u michael.. that was quick response.
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Old 03-31-2011, 04:03 PM   #7334
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Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
Regarding more flex for low grip surfaces Steven Weiss left away the inner top deck screws as well as the middle screws of each bulkhead. This shoul give you the more flex you might want. If itīs not enaugh: you can change the single screw in the motor mount to a set screw only to fix the position to the chassis without making it stiffer cause of the screw. You can even grind of the bulkhead where you left away the middle screw so that the bulk doesnīt touch the chassis at this point. If that is not enought, too, change to the moderate lipo chassis

By the way: We have a facebook group around Steven Weiss: itīs called: "T.O.P Racing" Sadly I donīt know facebook well enough to give you a link to this group...
Yes, Steven use only 4 Screw on topdeck, more flex in corners.
But isn't for low grip surface...he uses this configuration with mid-high grip
is working hard to improve the car, and to bring in A-main in Europe and World Event.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:13 PM   #7335
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Originally Posted by Mr.A Morris View Post
I havent ran on concrete but you would think your going to want more flex. You need the old 6 cell chassis!!! Thats why I plan on running out doors this summer.
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Originally Posted by chris_dono View Post
Simple answer = yes
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Originally Posted by jlfx car audio View Post
Just remove the riser from the outer point of the wing. If u remove the entire wing with nothing to connect the car to the top deck it will bow the chassis and pop belts off
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutz View Post
Regarding more flex for low grip surfaces Steven Weiss left away the inner top deck screws as well as the middle screws of each bulkhead. This shoul give you the more flex you might want. If itīs not enaugh: you can change the single screw in the motor mount to a set screw only to fix the position to the chassis without making it stiffer cause of the screw. You can even grind of the bulkhead where you left away the middle screw so that the bulk doesnīt touch the chassis at this point. If that is not enought, too, change to the moderate lipo chassis

By the way: We have a facebook group around Steven Weiss: itīs called: "T.O.P Racing" Sadly I donīt know facebook well enough to give you a link to this group...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
Yes, Steven use only 4 Screw on topdeck, more flex in corners.
But isn't for low grip surface...he uses this configuration with mid-high grip
is working hard to improve the car, and to bring in A-main in Europe and World Event.
Thank you all for the prompt and helpful responses.
Think I'll try removing screws from top deck first, easiest adjustment and makes sense.

Alan
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