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Old 02-23-2011, 05:48 AM   #7171
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Only use the spec r drive shafts if you want to be disappointed with breakage.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:49 AM   #7172
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No u need xray c hubs and bushings as well and thats it
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:51 AM   #7173
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Only use the spec r drive shafts if you want to be disappointed with breakage.
I have been runnimg them all winter with. Only 1 to breat and i took some hard hits
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:59 AM   #7174
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Im already using the xray hubs .. Are they like the xray shafts?

L.Fairtrace . Wat problems have u had with them?
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:59 AM   #7175
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Yes same as xray ecs but with.smaller bulb at spool end to fit the top steel cups. U can use x ray's also but u have to either get diff cups or grind down the "bulb" to fit the.cups like i did when i broke a bone in a bad wreck and didnt have a spare. Still running it now with no issues
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:01 AM   #7176
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Me and all the people at our track had nothing but problems with the spec r ones breaking, bending or generally failing.

Now I use xray ecs's and sidepiece spool cups. Failproof.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:06 AM   #7177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Me and all the people at our track had nothing but problems with the spec r ones breaking, bending or generally failing.

Now I use xray ecs's and sidepiece spool cups. Failproof.
I agreed.... I have two Spec R and they are alittle weak material made part..
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:21 AM   #7178
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Does anybody know how to run a yokomo gear diff in the front of a photon. I've shimmed for clearance on the bottom and using 46mm steel bones in the front with yokomo blades. My problem is binding when the wheels are turned. And they don't have to be at full throw either??. Anyone?
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Nevermind. Fixed it.
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you used 44.5mm front shafts, right?
I checked and they are 46 mm shafts. I went from some aluminum ones that were worn to some new steel ones. Put the new ones in and binding occured when turning. So I shaved the "bulb" on both ends and problem no more.
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Old 02-23-2011, 10:53 AM   #7179
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Think i will keep the top drive shafts for now dont realy spend
40 and they break ....
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:33 AM   #7180
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I got to run a high traction track last weekend (TZII), the 6.2mm (front) hex with a the front end at +2mm worked great. It put the car right at 190mm! It helped it from traction rolling with super quick transitioning and lots of corner speed!
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:42 AM   #7181
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I got to run a high traction track last weekend (TZII), the 6.2mm (front) hex with a the front end at +2mm worked great. It put the car right at 190mm! It helped it from traction rolling with super quick transitioning and lots of corner speed!
Great news...How did you do? could you share your set up ?
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Old 02-28-2011, 10:59 AM   #7182
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Great news...How did you do? could you share your set up ?
It was my first time out with a new a new car and I finished building it at the track LOL, but all and all I did ok.. I switched motors right before A2 and gained about .4sec... so I would have qualified A LOT better if I would have done that sooner . Then changed the set up right before A3 and it would have been great but I could have used more camber, as it was wanting to push.

But in general

Short arms in front

Long in back

2 hole pistons in front with 3 holes in the back (1.2)

Long camber links all the way around

6.2 Hex front Standard in rear..

The standard sway bar in front. none rear. (thats what I changed beofore A3)

Ride height was a little over 5 front and 5.5 rear

Hope that helps OVA see you in a coulpe weeks at the final NWIC race!

Last edited by Mr.A Morris; 02-28-2011 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:33 PM   #7183
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Originally Posted by Mr.A Morris View Post
It was my first time out with a new a new car and I finished building it at the track LOL but all and all I did ok.. I switched motors right before A2 and gained about .4sec... so I would have qualed A LOT better if I would have done that sooner . Then changed the set up right before A3 and it would have been great but I could have used more camber it was wanting to push.

But in general

Short arms in front

Long in back

2 hole pistons in front with 3 holes in the back (1.2)

Long camber links all the way around

6.2 Hex front Standard in rear..

The standard sway bar in front. none rear. (thats what I changed beofore A3)

Ride height was a little over 5 front and 5.5 rear

Hope that helps OVA see in a coulpe weeks at the final NWIC race!
New car?? did you get the lipo version?
I just might run my Photon next NWIC instead the 12th
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:13 AM   #7184
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Hey where on the car do you guys adjust the droop. Do you adjust it at the arms? I tried doing it under the hub in the rear but there is no real edge to it.
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Old 03-05-2011, 09:00 AM   #7185
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Originally Posted by rcfiend View Post
Hey where on the car do you guys adjust the droop. Do you adjust it at the arms? I tried doing it under the hub in the rear but there is no real edge to it.
I adjust Droop under the arms
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