Originally Posted by bkspeedo
I've never understood the difference in rasing or lowering the whole camber link (same amount of shims under both inner and outter link postions).
So how does 3mm under both inner and outter link postions effect the car versus zero shims inner and outter (the only difference is moving the link up or down 3mm)?
Generally speaking... raising the link equally allows for more roll on that end of the car, and lowering the hingepins allow for more roll on that end of the car. I wont say it generates grip, so much as it allows easier weight transfer across that end of the car.
Here, i part ways with the common descriptions of "grip" and "traction", and how its "found". To me, "generating grip" is a matter between the tire and track in question. A suspension is designed to make USE of the grip FOUND between tire and track. A properly adjusted suspension makes the most EFFICIENT use out of the grip found between tire and track... assuming the nut behind the wheel is up to par.
Link length and height combined affect camber gain. Camber gain adjustment allows for a flat tire contact patch regardless of the amount of chassis roll. Generally speaking, the less a car rolls, the more camber gain you will need to maintain a flat tire contact patch.
Incidentally, understanding camber gain and camber link length provides the basics for understanding Ackerman adjustment. Just look down on top of the steering links/knuckles/bellcrank, and think it through.
What do you think a longer steering link would do?
What happens if you move the bellcrank ballstuds further apart?
What do you think moving the center ackerman adjustment would do?
With that you might can see why TOP designed "radial ackerman" into the steering bellcrank. You affect link length and 'height' with one simple adjustment.