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Old 01-16-2011, 01:15 PM   #6826
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Bottom chassis - LiPo chassis allows you to flip the belts so you can balance it a bit lighter.

Shocks - The new ones are definitely better than the v.1 shocks

Optional 1.5mm CF camber link plates allow you to run longer links

The new top deck screws are better. Less likely to strip the heads (deeper 2mm hex) and the screw is .1 mm wider to fit the holes tighter.

CF Arms are lighter. I have yet to fully test their durability.

Alloy steering blocks. Last longer, unless you happen to bend one. I haven't yet. They are less prone to having the camber link ball studs pull the grub screw out of the hole. They're shiny

Alloy rear hub carriers. More durable. I never had a problem with the plastic ones, but others have. I just like them because they match the rest of the shiny bits on my car.

Alloy/CF bellcrank set is stronger and looks nice. The alloy radial Ackerman inserts are a must IMO.

Alloy axle pin retainers. Get them!

Serrated wheel nuts rock! They spin on and off way faster and they hold better.
yes, With lipo Chassis weighs 1350g with normal Body(no Light) good result!

- PO-DT1007RD Al. Axle Pin Holder
- TC-PDT005BK Centre Pulley Shaft V2 (Steel)

are highly recommended
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:55 PM   #6827
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I've got a question about the camber link plates. What does it means when it says 1.5mm or 1.25mm etc? Where is this measured from and to where?
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:12 PM   #6828
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I've got a question about the camber link plates. What does it means when it says 1.5mm or 1.25mm etc? Where is this measured from and to where?
The 1.5 plates are standard on the car with 3 holes for adjustment. The 1.25 plates have two holes that fall in the middle of the 3 original and 1 hole directly over the bearing cam for a long link. If you think of the original plates as having holes 1,3,5. The optional plates are like 2,4 and 10.
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Old 01-16-2011, 08:55 PM   #6829
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How can you tell the difference between the v1 shocks and the v2 shocks?
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:41 PM   #6830
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Default oneway diff

Anybody got oneway diff they want to sell? Please pm back
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:07 AM   #6831
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I think I need some help, maybe. My car is lose on corner entry only in high speed corners and tight corners at the end of a long stright. In the slow areas of the track the car is spot on. I lowered the rear roll center, changed the akraman, lowered the droop value and tried saucing the inner half of the front tires. Don't worry I didn't do all of these changes for one run this was over the cousre of the night. I'm just a little confused.

Setup

Front-
droop 1mm
springs 22lbs
shocks oil, 45wgt, #2 pistions
shock postion, center on arms, 3rd hole on the tower
roll center, medium blocks, cams high
camber plates, optional, 2nd hole, with 2.5mm shim, none on the c-hub
steering #9 insert, bellcrank mid, rear holes on aluminum kuckles
front toe out .5 degrees
chamber 2 degrees

Rear-
droop 1mm
springs 17lbs
shock oil, 45 wgt, #2 pistions
shock postion, center on arms, 4th hole in on the tower
roll center, medium blocks, cams low
camber plates standard, 3rd hole, 3mm shims, 2.5mm on the rear hubs
rear toe 2.5 degrees
chamber 2 degrees

tires used are Sweep EXP 30
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:19 AM   #6832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprintcarracer View Post
I think I need some help, maybe. My car is lose on corner entry only in high speed corners and tight corners at the end of a long stright. In the slow areas of the track the car is spot on. I lowered the rear roll center, changed the akraman, lowered the droop value and tried saucing the inner half of the front tires. Don't worry I didn't do all of these changes for one run this was over the cousre of the night. I'm just a little confused.

Setup

Front-
droop 1mm
springs 22lbs
shocks oil, 45wgt, #2 pistions
shock postion, center on arms, 3rd hole on the tower
roll center, medium blocks, cams high
camber plates, optional, 2nd hole, with 2.5mm shim, none on the c-hub
steering #9 insert, bellcrank mid, rear holes on aluminum kuckles
front toe out .5 degrees
chamber 2 degrees

Rear-
droop 1mm
springs 17lbs
shock oil, 45 wgt, #2 pistions
shock postion, center on arms, 4th hole in on the tower
roll center, medium blocks, cams low
camber plates standard, 3rd hole, 3mm shims, 2.5mm on the rear hubs
rear toe 2.5 degrees
chamber 2 degrees

tires used are Sweep EXP 30
I assume your droop measurement is over ride height. In which case, the thing that stands out to me is the 1mm in the rear - try winding that out to 2mm. I imagine that will plant the rear end a lot more.

The other things that look off are the rear toe - try going back out to 3 degrees, and the shims under the inner links, 2.5 and 3mm may 0.5 to 1mm too much.

You mention additive on the inside of the fronts, I assume you are saucing the whole of the rears!

Last edited by sosidge; 01-17-2011 at 04:16 AM.
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:06 AM   #6833
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Been playing around with setup recently and been setting up the car like we used to run the Scythe,

This setup I have been using is very fast and stable (at least with my driving) in stock 17.5 class on Asphalt,

recent results with this setup:
AARCMCC Nationals Bendigo, Qual 3rd, finished 5th,
Summer Nats Fairymeadow: Qual 2nd finished 2nd,

At first it will feel like it does not have enough steering but once you get used to it, it is fine,

had to upload to remote site as it exceeds rctech size limit:

http://hotfile.com/dl/97436116/312ea...12011.pdf.html
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:03 AM   #6834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
I assume your droop measurement is over ride height. In which case, the thing that stands out to me is the 1mm in the rear - try winding that out to 2mm. I imagine that will plant the rear end a lot more.

The other things that look off are the rear toe - try going back out to 3 degrees, and the shims under the inner links, 2.5 and 3mm may 0.5 to 1mm too much.

You mention additive on the inside of the fronts, I assume you are saucing the whole of the rears!
Yes I am saucing the whole rear tires. So on the chamber links for shims on the inner side 2mm would be better? I never really know how many shims you can put under them before you start to hurt the car. How many shims do you normally stop at under the chamber links?
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:41 AM   #6835
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Yes I am saucing the whole rear tires. So on the chamber links for shims on the inner side 2mm would be better? I never really know how many shims you can put under them before you start to hurt the car. How many shims do you normally stop at under the chamber links?
I just aim to stop the inner link being raised higher than the outer link, it causes some odd camber change which is not desirable in a tourer. I think that with your settings you may be close to doing that.

Your droop should be the first change to test though.
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:15 AM   #6836
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Quote:


Rear-
droop 1mm
springs 17lbs
shock oil, 45 wgt, #2 pistions
shock postion, center on arms, 4th hole in on the tower
roll center, medium blocks, cams low
camber plates standard, 3rd hole, 3mm shims, 2.5mm on the rear hubs
rear toe 2.5 degrees
chamber 2 degrees


I think your inner camber link on the rear is way too high. I use a lower camber link in the rear than in the front. Otherwise the rear will be loose. I suggest you use 2mm in the rear and 2.5mm in the front
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:06 AM   #6837
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Mike D, all gay'd up!

Attachment 695288

Dumas says he is running five classes at the Birds! His TOP sedan is fast!
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:09 AM   #6838
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I want to do the shock cap mod and in the TOP Wiki i read that i need a .57 drill, but in the moment all i have is a .62, will this be too much??
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Old 01-19-2011, 06:22 AM   #6839
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I want to do the shock cap mod and in the TOP Wiki i read that i need a .57 drill, but in the moment all i have is a .62, will this be too much??
That would be fine, thats around 1mm - I used 1,2mm thats what I had in my box. Just make a slight angle, so the hole will be in the middle of the shock cap, when You look from inside.
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Old 01-19-2011, 08:36 AM   #6840
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Whats your thought on the new TOP gear diff? I heard they had one before and was not the greatest the gears were to small??

RedRC.com LINK
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