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Old 01-10-2011, 09:42 PM   #6811
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Whats the point of a narrower chassis if the motor is in the same position... and the batteries are still moved far out to compensate?
makes it look longer :P
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Old 01-10-2011, 10:22 PM   #6812
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Originally Posted by hanulec View Post
What servo are you using Kling? A few of us have been running within a hole for the outside wing, and drilling an additional mounting hole. This works for the JR 8800S or Spektrum 6040 servo (along w/ a little dremel work on the servo case).

http://racerlog.com/wiki/T.O.P._Photon#Servo_Mounting

I can pull together some measurements tomorrow if people are interested...
Hey Mike, I'm running a Futaba BLS551
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:42 PM   #6813
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Hey guys, just purchased a Photon. Do the diff's come pre assebled in the kit?
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:48 PM   #6814
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Hey guys, just purchased a Photon. Do the diff's come pre assebled in the kit?
Nope, nothing is preassembled in the kit.
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:59 PM   #6815
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Nope, nothing is preassembled in the kit.
OK thanks for the quick reply, going to be quite the day building it for racing at 5PM...
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Old 01-11-2011, 04:41 PM   #6816
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OK thanks for the quick reply, going to be quite the day building it for racing at 5PM...
There's always next week...
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:41 PM   #6817
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OK thanks for the quick reply, going to be quite the day building it for racing at 5PM...

Make sure you read the Wiki page before you build and pay attention to the shock tips, even after reading the blog I over tightened one of the ball cups. It really is an easy car to build though.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:17 PM   #6818
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Hey Mike, I'm running a Futaba BLS551
If you are useing the lipo chassis the bls 551 will fit strait in useing outer 2 holes (on the edge of chassis) with the large plastic mounts and servo saver
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:01 PM   #6819
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Originally Posted by mcb-jet View Post
If you are useing the lipo chassis the bls 551 will fit strait in useing outer 2 holes (on the edge of chassis) with the large plastic mounts and servo saver
Thanks!
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:55 AM   #6820
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Het guys, selling my nice photon.
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:54 AM   #6821
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mold L-06-1 diff nut retainer

does anyone know if this is sold as a replacement part? maybe there is something i could use in it's place.
your assistance would be appreciated.
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Old 01-12-2011, 08:17 AM   #6822
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mold L-06-1 diff nut retainer

does anyone know if this is sold as a replacement part? maybe there is something i could use in it's place.
your assistance would be appreciated.
Looks like it is included with the diff pulley #TC-PMLS01.
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:25 AM   #6823
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seems that way, thank you.
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:29 PM   #6824
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Default NEW PARTS

I just want to know - which of the new parts are worth getting the most - in other words which make the biggest improvements on a V1 car?

1. Chassis?
2. Steering?
3. shocks?
4. allow top links?
5. carbon fibre arms?

etc - etc - etc

do top do an upgrade kit?
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:44 PM   #6825
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Originally Posted by Lohan View Post
I just want to know - which of the new parts are worth getting the most - in other words which make the biggest improvements on a V1 car?

1. Chassis?
2. Steering?
3. shocks?
4. allow top links?
5. carbon fibre arms?

etc - etc - etc

do top do an upgrade kit?
Bottom chassis - LiPo chassis allows you to flip the belts so you can balance it a bit lighter.

Shocks - The new ones are definitely better than the v.1 shocks

Optional 1.25mm CF camber link plates allow you to run longer links

The new top deck screws are better. Less likely to strip the heads (deeper 2mm hex) and the screw is .1 mm wider to fit the holes tighter.

CF Arms are lighter. I have yet to fully test their durability.

Alloy steering blocks. Last longer, unless you happen to bend one. I haven't yet. They are less prone to having the camber link ball studs pull the grub screw out of the hole. They're shiny

Alloy rear hub carriers. More durable. I never had a problem with the plastic ones, but others have. I just like them because they match the rest of the shiny bits on my car.

Alloy/CF bellcrank set is stronger and looks nice. The alloy radial Ackerman inserts are a must IMO.

Alloy axle pin retainers. Get them!

Serrated wheel nuts rock! They spin on and off way faster and they hold better.
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Last edited by locked; 01-16-2011 at 08:57 PM. Reason: Replied quickly while at work. Omitted some items.
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