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Old 01-02-2011, 12:07 PM   #6736
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compliments DaveW!
good idea!
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:39 PM   #6737
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Well, maybe Dave had just bad luck. But I agree, that is very frustrating.
Iīve decided for myself not to make such modifications on my car. I did several things to my rdx phi but I didnīt like to modify so many parts in case of modified parts breaking.
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Old 01-02-2011, 12:40 PM   #6738
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@DaveW:
Did this happen on a cold track?
Maybe the original top hubs are too stiff.
If I remember correctly the xray parts are little less stiff.
And in cold conditions they would last longer, indeed.
Iīve heard from people cooking their plastic parts in water before mounting.
Havenīt done this yet, but you might try this.
You arent the first to suggest that... and something i remember doing years ago to nylon based plastics on offroad cars... but hadnt thought about it in this situation.

I might try that to see... but at this point im pretty happy with the durability and feel of the car. I really dont feel like replacing any more hubs that i have to.

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Do you have a set of 1dg rear hubs to try? I've wished top would mold a set, its one of those things I have liked on other cars and think the top could benefit from.

I think there are other ways to use that style hub too, the HB arms have the same pin size, but if I remember right they are about .5mm shorter than the top, which could also be a tuning choice.
No not yet... but believe me its on the list. I want to remove a bit of inboard rear toe and add some outboard and see if that will keep the rear tires from glazing up as they do. Its nothing big, but its all about fine tuning... and finding something that works well for me. Ill post up what i find for sure though.



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compliments DaveW!
good idea!
Thanks Luppi. Ill be sure to post up anything else i come across that might be of interest.

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By the way, i got the XRay steering hubs to work with the TOP caster blocks/bushings. They were a direct fit for me.
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:57 PM   #6739
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Thanks Luppi. Ill be sure to post up anything else i come across that might be of interest.
By the way, i got the XRay steering hubs to work with the TOP caster blocks/bushings. They were a direct fit for me.
I want try with Sakura rear Hub, we'll see ...
yes, Steering Hub fit perfectly on Caster blocks TOP!
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:57 AM   #6740
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You arent the first to suggest that... and something i remember doing years ago to nylon based plastics on offroad cars... but hadnt thought about it in this situation.

I might try that to see... but at this point im pretty happy with the durability and feel of the car. I really dont feel like replacing any more hubs that i have to.
Have you tried boiling the TOP arms ? Some of us have done that to soften them slightly and I've not broken a single one all year running modified outdoors, or carpet indoors.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:54 AM   #6741
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Just picked up a couple of the micro pro gear diffs. They seem really "rough" almost like a bad ball diff. Do I need to sand the gears or are the shims too tight? I only ask as a buddy of mine just got some Spec-r ones for his TC5 and they are smooth as butter.

thanks
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:35 AM   #6742
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Just picked up a couple of the micro pro gear diffs. They seem really "rough" almost like a bad ball diff. Do I need to sand the gears or are the shims too tight? I only ask as a buddy of mine just got some Spec-r ones for his TC5 and they are smooth as butter.

thanks
Uhm, yes. Some have had luck breaking them in with toothpaste, I couldn't get mine that smooth, I got a couple spec-r's now and use the u-pro with thick lube for the front.
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:02 AM   #6743
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I just picked up a uPro gear diff second hand... im sure its self explanatory but... does anyone have an instruction sheet for proper assembly? This puppy feels like it has rocks in it...
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:15 AM   #6744
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I just picked up a uPro gear diff second hand... im sure its self explanatory but... does anyone have an instruction sheet for proper assembly? This puppy feels like it has rocks in it...
There a sheet that comes with the rebuild kit. There isn't much that you couldn't figure out other than one side uses 2 thin shims and the other uses 1. If I remember I'll take a pic of it tonight.
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:58 AM   #6745
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There a sheet that comes with the rebuild kit. There isn't much that you couldn't figure out other than one side uses 2 thin shims and the other uses 1. If I remember I'll take a pic of it tonight.
Thats cool. Id appreciate it if you could. The shimming is what concerns me. Any oil wt suggestions for an 'almost spool" feel in the front? I have heard everything from 80k on up...
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:06 AM   #6746
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Thats cool. Id appreciate it if you could. The shimming is what concerns me. Any oil wt suggestions for an 'almost spool" feel in the front? I have heard everything from 80k on up...
with only 2 spider gears I had to use a putty, even 500k feels soft in the upro. Right now I have stuff that's called fun tack, some are using serpents cleaning putty.

I don't want to say something that works for someone else isn't "right" but 120k for me diffed out really easy out of the corner.
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:12 AM   #6747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
with only 2 spider gears I had to use a putty, even 500k feels soft in the upro. Right now I have stuff that's called fun tack, some are using serpents cleaning putty.

I don't want to say something that works for someone else isn't "right" but 120k for me diffed out really easy out of the corner.
Hey Mike,

Do what Goat did. He filled the diff with toothpaste(not sure which one) and chucked it up in a dremel. The toothpaste broke in the gears pretty nice. I know he moved shims around too, but not sure which ones. The diff I stole from him is as smooth or smoother than a Spec R diff. The only thing is that it doesn't hold up well in anything quicker than a 17.5. If you try to run mod with it, it might last 2 minutes before ripping the gears up.
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:27 AM   #6748
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Hey Mike,

Do what Goat did. He filled the diff with toothpaste(not sure which one) and chucked it up in a dremel. The toothpaste broke in the gears pretty nice. I know he moved shims around too, but not sure which ones. The diff I stole from him is as smooth or smoother than a Spec R diff. The only thing is that it doesn't hold up well in anything quicker than a 17.5. If you try to run mod with it, it might last 2 minutes before ripping the gears up.
I did when we were at the gate, it got smoother, but not perfect, I think some gears are better than others, the rebuild kit I had was better out of the box than my original diff. I have spec-r for the rear now and the upro works well for the front, its easier to pack with putty than the spec-r, and you don't have the dremel the blades to fit the outdrives. I also tried running one with one less shim which felt great on the bench, but grenaded on the track in 17.5 blinky.
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:27 PM   #6749
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I tried what Goat does for break-in with toothpaste. That worked for awhile and the gear diff seized up.
I just got a new one and a rebuild kit. Took the diff apart. cleaned the bearings, polished the gears and re-shimmed it using the shims from the re-build kit. Made sure it spun free before putting it back together. Put xray 150 oil in it and it is really free. Not notchy.
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:47 PM   #6750
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Plain and simple. The u pro gear diffs are junk. There notchy as he'll and blow up very easy. There not worth even trying so save your money.
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