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Old 10-23-2010, 08:36 AM   #5986
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Can anyone help..

I've got the original shocks.

Is there anything I can do to improve the sealing and get them to work like the new shocks, if possible

What do the o ring grades 20 30 40 mean?

Also please recommend piston for indoor carpet


Using TRF shocks but would like to get the TOP shocks working, they don't look to be a whole lot different TBH

Cheers in advance
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:11 AM   #5987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shoei View Post
noticed differences with your chassis plate and top deck too.
yes!
chassis and topdeck is different!
JoJiAuE, any photo to your car?
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:13 AM   #5988
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Default Martin Crisp Setup for Halloween Classic Race

Well, I am still working on the setup, but so far the following setup is working well. I managed a 10.5 in 17.5 and and a 10.3 in mod with this setup.

FRONT:

shock oil: losi 30
pistons : 3 hole 1mm
springs : Tamiya blue (about 15 lbs)
shock position : three holes in on shock tower. hole 2 on the arms

swaybar: silver bar

Roll Center: 4mm on inboard upper links, 0mm on outboard upper links, Low Low on the arm. - this low roll center was important to smooth out the steering.

track width: 1mm spacers between bulk head arms

Ackerman: all the way forward in steering rack and where links attach to steering knuckles.

wheelbase - 2mm spacers forward in the front and 2mm spacers in the rear - just like stock build specs.

Droop: 2.0mm in the rear (difference between ride hight and just before the tires lift off the setup board)

REAR:

shocks : Same pistons and oil as front. two holes in on shock tower, hole 2 in the arm.
springs : Tamiya yellow (about 14 lbs)

Roll Center: Upper links : 3mm outboard and 2mm inboard. Low/High with arms. Just a slightly higher roll center in the rear than the front.

swaybar: silverbar

rear toe: 3.1 (1mm in front and 3.5 mm in rear)

0.5mm spacers on axels

Droop: 2.5mm in the rear (difference between ride hight and just before the tires lift off the setup board)

Chassis:
I am using the lipo chassis that comes with the kit, but I narrowed it by 5mm on both sides from stock. This is important when going with the soft sprint rates I am running, otherwise the chassis will rub on the carpet.
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:42 AM   #5989
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Default Halloween Classic at the Gate

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Well, I am still working on the setup, but so far the following setup is working well. I managed a 10.5 in 17.5 and and a 10.3 in mod with this setup.

FRONT:

shock oil: losi 30
pistons : 3 hole 1mm
springs : Tamiya blue (about 15 lbs)
shock position : three holes in on shock tower. hole 2 on the arms

swaybar: silver bar

Roll Center: 4mm on inboard upper links, 0mm on outboard upper links, Low Low on the arm. - this low roll center was important to smooth out the steering.

track width: 1mm spacers between bulk head arms

Ackerman: all the way forward in steering rack and where links attach to steering knuckles.

wheelbase - 2mm spacers forward in the front and 2mm spacers in the rear - just like stock build specs.

Droop: 2.0mm in the rear (difference between ride hight and just before the tires lift off the setup board)

REAR:

shocks : Same pistons and oil as front. two holes in on shock tower, hole 2 in the arm.
springs : Tamiya yellow (about 14 lbs)

Roll Center: Upper links : 3mm outboard and 2mm inboard. Low/High with arms. Just a slightly higher roll center in the rear than the front.

swaybar: silverbar

rear toe: 3.1 (1mm in front and 3.5 mm in rear)

0.5mm spacers on axels

Droop: 2.5mm in the rear (difference between ride hight and just before the tires lift off the setup board)

Chassis:
I am using the lipo chassis that comes with the kit, but I narrowed it by 5mm on both sides from stock. This is important when going with the soft sprint rates I am running, otherwise the chassis will rub on the carpet.
Good luck out there Martin! Let us know how it's going.
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:55 AM   #5990
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[QUOTE=Martin Crisp;8111648]Well, I am still working on the setup, but so far the following setup is working well. I managed a 10.5 in 17.5 and and a 10.3 in mod with this setup. [QUOTE]

Only 2 tenths difference between non boosted 17.5 and full mod?
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:56 AM   #5991
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Martin, this setup is for low grip carpet?
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:41 AM   #5992
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Default halloween classic setup

no, this setup is for high grip.
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:51 AM   #5993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
yes!
chassis and topdeck is different!
JoJiAuE, any photo to your car?
Self made chassis(Type 1)
The type 2 of the current production (with new top deck & motor mount...)
Attached Thumbnails
T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-type-i.jpg   T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-type-i2.jpg   T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-type-i3.jpg  
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:03 AM   #5994
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[QUOTE=-showtime-;8111760][QUOTE=Martin Crisp;8111648]Well, I am still working on the setup, but so far the following setup is working well. I managed a 10.5 in 17.5 and and a 10.3 in mod with this setup.
Quote:

Only 2 tenths difference between non boosted 17.5 and full mod?

yeah...I should be faster in mod need a driver upgrade
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:12 AM   #5995
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Too bad we can't download skills like in the Matrix. Team Tekin, get on that. EBCs. Electronic Brain Controls. I'll take the latest Hara firmware please.
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Old 10-23-2010, 11:13 AM   #5996
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I know how that goes!
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:15 PM   #5997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoJiAuE View Post
Self made chassis(Type 1)
The type 2 of the current production (with new top deck & motor mount...)
very interesting!

difference to drive?
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:30 AM   #5998
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I was giving my Photon a clean and check this weekend, and was still surprised with the lack of damage from a huge hit last meet, basically a back straight incident, someone stopped mid to end, t-bone full tilt.

But anyway, just when I think only the bumper looks a bit trashed, I see what looks like a chip near the motor on the top deck, then again opposing corner up front, turns out it's cracks on both sections, the carbon kind of hides it, but when you look close enough it's sort of cracked inside pushing up the surface a bit.

So I don't know if it's a bin job for the top plate, but I see now what took the load of that big hit, more interested than annoyed, stuff happens and all that, guess I'll order a new one when I get around to ordering my gear diffs.
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:28 PM   #5999
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Bummer... I had a fellow racer step into the path of my Photon, full rip just before the sweeper. Luckily, I didn't break his foot! I'm still finding parts that are broken, holes that are elongated, bent screws, bulkheads and so on. All from one really really hard impact. I plan on tearing down the whole car to inspect, then decide weather to trash it or not.

Last edited by pcar951; 10-25-2010 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:02 PM   #6000
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I made some minor changes to the setup by the end of the weekend....

Mainly I went to the softer sprint in the front....so I had yellow tamiya springs front and rear. Because of the softer front sprint, I also raised the front roll center a little by going with "L" block and a high cam setting, along with going to 3.5mm down from 4mm on the inboard upper links in the front.

The 17.5 car was really good for the A main in the warmup, but I got hit on the side and it broke my motor so I was done for the main.

In the mod A main, I put a different set of tires on and they had not grip, but in the morning qualifier this morning I was able to do 10.1, which felt good considering Kevin and Paul's best laps were 10.0. Made a lot of setup progress this weekend. I now have a number of new ideas I want to try as well for setup, as there is still room for improvement to optimize the carpet setup.

cheers,
Martin.
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