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Old 10-11-2010, 06:44 PM   #5911
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Got a question I picked up an older scythe car with a ton of parts. Ran it one time and had a blast now I'm looking at getting another car for a second class. I was wondering if the scythe parts were able to be used with the new photon car since I have so many spares. meaning arms chubs, steering block, hubs etc.

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Old 10-11-2010, 06:56 PM   #5912
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Originally Posted by DJG24 View Post
How are you suppose to mount the weight next to the battery? They just kind of sit in there but are not held in. What is the way to do this correctly?
Double sided tape
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:23 AM   #5913
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Originally Posted by jac9 View Post
Got a question I picked up an older scythe car with a ton of parts. Ran it one time and had a blast now I'm looking at getting another car for a second class. I was wondering if the scythe parts were able to be used with the new photon car since I have so many spares. meaning arms chubs, steering block, hubs etc.

LMK
Thanks
Jeff
There is a seperate Scythe thread with lots of info on the car (do a search, it will be a good few pages back).

Scythe parts are not really compatible with the Photon. Parts of the driveshafts are the same, and the complete Scythe suspension can be made to fit with a lot of shimming, but a few dimensions are different so the car will not handle the same anyway.
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Old 10-12-2010, 03:58 AM   #5914
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It's important that if you take the shims out from behind the gear you put it back in on the outside of the out drive. I spent quite a few hours last week figuring them things out and found that they need to have both those shims or the diff out drive will actually push back in and bind the gear causing them to break.
Ok Iīll try that. Thank you
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:27 AM   #5915
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i have something to share...

i sand the gear behind and make it shining.......after that, i feel my gediff is smoother alots...less notching feel...

maybe u guys can try it
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Last edited by kschu; 10-12-2010 at 06:35 AM.
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:50 AM   #5916
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yeah that sounds useful ,too
thanks
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:21 AM   #5917
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Yup, gotta try that.
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:03 AM   #5918
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Advice please,

Iíve got the Photon setup using a bastardized Marcos J. setup with 2.5mm top deck / 3.0 6-cell chassis (thatís what it came with), and 1.6 front 1.4 rear sway bar cause there was just too much grip on the car. Worked great for one of our medium grip / small tracks. Our other club is starting up real soon and is about to get new CRC carpet and the surface is maybe not as smooth either and Iím assuming the grip isnít going to be great there either to start with..

Here are my options:

1. I have two 2.0mm top deck (1 is missing the horizontal connecting piece so giving more flex) and the 2.5mm top deck.
2. I also have one 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm 6-cell chassis plate

If I wanted to give the car a bit more flex to accommodate a slightly not as smooth track with a bit less grip, would you play around with the top deck pieces first by going down in stiffness, or would you change right off the bat with the 2.5mm chassis? Or would I drive what I got now and just maybe only need to remove the sway bars? Buying the lipo chassis is not one of my options.

Also, just wondering how important it is to sand your bottom edge of the chassis plate and CA after?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Ivan
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Old 10-12-2010, 11:42 AM   #5919
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This weekend TOP in Japan hobby show
have some new product for Photon
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:04 PM   #5920
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Advice please,

Iíve got the Photon setup using a bastardized Marcos J. setup with 2.5mm top deck / 3.0 6-cell chassis (thatís what it came with), and 1.6 front 1.4 rear sway bar cause there was just too much grip on the car. Worked great for one of our medium grip / small tracks. Our other club is starting up real soon and is about to get new CRC carpet and the surface is maybe not as smooth either and Iím assuming the grip isnít going to be great there either to start with..

Here are my options:

1. I have two 2.0mm top deck (1 is missing the horizontal connecting piece so giving more flex) and the 2.5mm top deck.
2. I also have one 2.0mm, 2.5mm, and 3.0mm 6-cell chassis plate

If I wanted to give the car a bit more flex to accommodate a slightly not as smooth track with a bit less grip, would you play around with the top deck pieces first by going down in stiffness, or would you change right off the bat with the 2.5mm chassis? Or would I drive what I got now and just maybe only need to remove the sway bars? Buying the lipo chassis is not one of my options.

Also, just wondering how important it is to sand your bottom edge of the chassis plate and CA after?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Ivan
Its usually best to just try the car and work from there, but in general taking off the sway bars will give you more roll and more traction, it might be all it needs. Until you see how much grip there is or isn't its hard to say what is the best choice, I go with the easier options first, bars, springs, topdeck, etc.
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:15 PM   #5921
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Its usually best to just try the car and work from there, but in general taking off the sway bars will give you more roll and more traction, it might be all it needs. Until you see how much grip there is or isn't its hard to say what is the best choice, I go with the easier options first, bars, springs, topdeck, etc.
You forgot an option... "Peal Hanulec". That one always works.

Oh wait... it's not an option.
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:32 PM   #5922
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You forgot an option... "Peal Hanulec". That one always works.

Oh wait... it's not an option.
Its not my fault I'm better at one corner of the track than him
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:27 PM   #5923
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Advice please,



Also, just wondering how important it is to sand your bottom edge of the chassis plate and CA after?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Ivan
Crush, sand that chassis and seal it up with CA. All the little things add up to a fast car on the track!

Be sure to do your sanding while running water on it, CF dust is very bad for you. I use 100 grit wet to knock down the edge, then finish with 400 wet.
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:50 PM   #5924
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Its usually best to just try the car and work from there, but in general taking off the sway bars will give you more roll and more traction, it might be all it needs. Until you see how much grip there is or isn't its hard to say what is the best choice, I go with the easier options first, bars, springs, topdeck, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
Crush, sand that chassis and seal it up with CA. All the little things add up to a fast car on the track!

Be sure to do your sanding while running water on it, CF dust is very bad for you. I use 100 grit wet to knock down the edge, then finish with 400 wet.
Thanks for the advice Mike and Jimbo!

Ivan
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:11 AM   #5925
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my bad I think i posted my set up but left some info out (my bad) Here is the set up again

Used gear diffs front and rear (120,000 wt oil in the front and 10,000 wt in the rear)
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File Type: pdf Marcos J.revised setup.pdf (309.0 KB, 244 views)
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