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Old 08-18-2010, 11:02 PM   #5371
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
Shim those pistons.... I bet it solves the problem.
Will do and report back. Building shocks is fun
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:11 PM   #5372
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Yeah, shim the pistons. It is the best thing I have ever done to my photon. My photon loves smooooooooth shocks. It returns the favor by handling well.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:46 AM   #5373
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Yeah, shim the pistons. It is the best thing I have ever done to my photon. My photon loves smooooooooth shocks. It returns the favor by handling well.
Yep, problem sorted. No big deal,
something for Top to add to the manual amendments+ throw in some shims...
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:45 AM   #5374
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
well...
I Found This....

Xray Rubber Spring isn't Classified by gf/mm
yeah... until you measure them hehe...
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:20 AM   #5375
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.Hi Lyn
Are you saying the hole is .2mm off from each other?
You know that each degree is about .44mm ...
So I trig the number and it is only .278 deg off base on the .2mm off!

If you are 1.15mm off the would make sense...
What I'm say'n is, the Original 6 cell 2.5 plate IS SCREWED!

I used it maybe for 2 Race days before replacing it with the NOW Discontinued 2.5 LiPo plate, which only requires the .40mm shim normally installed on the Left Rear Hinge Pin holder be moved to the Front/Rear/Left side only to make the Rear Toe Symetrical! If the Car is assembled w/6 Cell plate to Kit Default Specs, IT WILL HAVE 1.5* MORE TOE IN ON THE LEFT REAR CORNER!

The Now discontinued 2.5mm LiPo is only off by .20mm on the rear Bulkhead distance from parallel.
I CAN LIVE WITH THIS!! I'VE BEEN LIVING WITH THIS!
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:46 AM   #5376
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Default rear toe

One day I noticed that some wheels wobbled more than others and wanted the wheels to run true

I noticed when checking rear camber and finding it unequal that I could rotate the axle in the set up station and get the readings to be equal

So the hexes were not perfectly perpendicular to the axle

When I rotated the hex the toe would change by 2 degrees (and obviously camber)

So now I always modify the hexes on a new car until they are perfect. Now when I fit the wheels there is no wobble and they run true

And now toe and camber readings are always equal and accurate
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Old 08-19-2010, 03:19 PM   #5377
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One day I noticed that some wheels wobbled more than others and wanted the wheels to run true

I noticed when checking rear camber and finding it unequal that I could rotate the axle in the set up station and get the readings to be equal

So the hexes were not perfectly perpendicular to the axle

When I rotated the hex the toe would change by 2 degrees (and obviously camber)

So now I always modify the hexes on a new car until they are perfect. Now when I fit the wheels there is no wobble and they run true

And now toe and camber readings are always equal and accurate
I found that if you over tighten the wheel hex it will deform enough to create a wobble in the wheel.. Eventually I just replaced them all with new Hex..

How do you modify them?
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:46 PM   #5378
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Default Gear Diff Photon

I just ordered the gear diff. I do have a couple question. I assume it come prelubed with oil or grease? If so does anyone know the stock oil weight. If not can someone help me choose a oil weight to run. I plan on running 13.5 tarmac and 17.5 carpet. My driving skill is average to new. I guess I am looking for a set and forget oil. As I am still learning to drive and find and hold lines. I know my skill level will never see any advantage in fine tuning by changing oils.

Thanks

People running two diffs would say its easier to drive? Can you list some pros and cons from a new runner with two gear diffs.
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Old 08-19-2010, 05:10 PM   #5379
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Xceed 20k diff oil is in the gear diff. What most drivers are using in the rear diff is 10k (Xray or Ofna diff oil) and in the front 120K (Ofna) or 100k (Xray).
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:22 AM   #5380
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When putting new oil into the gear diff, do you fill both sides up or only one? Also, how high do you go with the oil?

Chi
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Old 08-20-2010, 12:11 PM   #5381
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When putting new oil into the gear diff, do you fill both sides up or only one? Also, how high do you go with the oil?

Chi
I don't "fill" either one of the sides. I remove the center gears and fill that side up to the top of the gear, then reinstall the center gearset. I put enough oil in the other side to fill it maybe 1/3. It was kind of trial and error. You don't want to fill it up because it will leak. Too little fluid and it will not run with the correct feeling for the weight oil that you are using. ie.. 100k will feel like 80k.
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Old 08-20-2010, 02:40 PM   #5382
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What size shim/brand are u guys using on the shocks. Do u use a shim on each side of the piston or just one side
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:01 PM   #5383
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Originally Posted by DAAAANZ67 View Post
What size shim/brand are u guys using on the shocks. Do u use a shim on each side of the piston or just one side
I use old motor shims to shim the piston. It doesn't really matter what side you shim from or if you shim from both sides. However I usually put shims on the shaft then then the piston over it. This way the shim doesn't get in the way when clamping the eclip back on.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:05 PM   #5384
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I use old motor shims to shim the piston. It doesn't really matter what side you shim from or if you shim from both sides. However I usually put shims on the shaft then then the piston over it. This way the shim doesn't get in the way when clamping the eclip back on.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:07 PM   #5385
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Originally Posted by cpatel529 View Post
When putting new oil into the gear diff, do you fill both sides up or only one? Also, how high do you go with the oil?

Chi
Just make sure not to put to much oil. You'll get what's called "diff lock". I like running the rear gear diff fairly free. It's a little harder to drive, but I get more steering. Other people's results may differ.

I haven't tried a gear diff up front. Something I need to test.
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