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Old 08-11-2010, 08:47 PM   #5236
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
I don't have my car in front of me so this will be by memory, but here it goes

Tires: Solaris

Front:
Camber -2
Springs: 324
Shock oil: 70 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 3 from outside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium low
- upper links: inside shims 2mm, no outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
toe out: 0.5 deg
droop: 1.5mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
ackerman:
- front hole in steering knuckle
- all the way forward on center steering assembly.
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm forward
Track width spacers: 0.5mm all the way around



Back:
Camber -2
Springs: 306
Shock oil: 55 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 1 from inside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium high
- upper links: inside shims 3mm, 2mm outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
Track width spacers: 2mm on front, 3.5 on rear
toe in: 1.875 deg ((3.5 - 2)/0,8)
droop: 2.5 mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm backward

The I did not try this setup until the last round of the triple A main, and it finally gave me a good amount of steering, but the car rolled too much, and I lost time in transitions. The steering was mainly achieved by going from 2mm to 3mm of spacers on the rear inside upper link, but with the droop settings so high, the car rolled too much and wanted to keep turning the corner on exit. If I had one more run, I would have gone to between 0.5mm and 1mm front droop and 1.5 mm rear droop.

Also I don't like the fact that I reduced the rear toe so much to get the steering, as this hurt my ability to get on the power in mod on exit of the corner, and also contributed to the car wanting to keep turning as it finished the corner, so I still need to figure out a combination that allows me to run at least 2.5 if not 3 degrees of rear toe. More time and I will figure it out
question what chassis are you running ? ( lipo chassis thick or med?)
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:56 PM   #5237
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Well, it was a great learning experience for my new ride. I love the adjustability of the photon! I think I needed just a little more time to get the steering I wanted, but it was getting close in my very last run of the mod and 17.5 expert a mains. I think I had too much droop as the car was too lazy in transitions in a couple of critical corners, but the balance was good.

Yeah I really was hoping there would have been a 13.5 class as the 17.5 is a little slow for my liking, but I figured I needed as much experience with the car as possible.
Nice run Martin, Glad your liking your new ride. Hope to race with you again soon. What track have you been racing at on your side of the border?

James
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:56 PM   #5238
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This is Toronto's "FastCats Depot" summer club racing in the Home Depot parking lot.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

This is just a fun practice race of us slower guys. John on the mic always makes it fun.
There's also RROL out in London Ontario and Durham Radio Control Racing Club.

I don't know of any indoor tracks nearby, but would very much like to.
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Last edited by locked; 08-11-2010 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:23 PM   #5239
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Good !
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:49 PM   #5240
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μ.PRO
LIGHT WT. GEAR DIFF. MAINTANANCE KIT (PRO STOCK ED.)
anybody stock this in the US?
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:38 AM   #5241
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Couple questions:

1. What length universal bones are people running on the front and rear of their Photon? I noticed that A-Main Hobbies sells a 43 mm and a 44.5 mm length aluminum version. Apparently there is also a 46mm version as well (is this the steel one).

I generally run 2mm of track washers on each side for the front and the standard wheel hexes.

I am looking to purchase the LiteModz CVS and not sure if I should order the Photon Front or Photon Rear for the front of the Photon. The LiteModz Photon Fronts are 46mm and the LiteModz Photon Rears are 44mm.

http://www.litemodz.com

2. When running boosted 17.5 is it recommended to run the aluminum, steel or composite spool outdrives?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Chi
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Last edited by cpatel529; 08-12-2010 at 01:23 AM.
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:50 AM   #5242
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Hi Martin, i wrote down your settings in a setup sheet, let me know if it's all right.
(btw, i didn't know if you were using sway bars or not, so i left the stock ones)

Cheers!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Photon Martin Crisp Roar Nats 2010.PDF (392.8 KB, 191 views)
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:23 AM   #5243
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anybody stock this in the US?
unknow !
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:07 AM   #5244
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Originally Posted by Fastfreddy74 View Post
Hi Martin, i wrote down your settings in a setup sheet, let me know if it's all right.
(btw, i didn't know if you were using sway bars or not, so i left the stock ones)

Cheers!
kool!

The swaybars were the 1.4mm

Also above someone noted I forgot to indicate which chassis I was running. I was running the medium lipo with the foam upper deck on the 17.5 car. On the mod car I was running the stiffer lipo with the normal upper deck and they felt similar.

Also I was running the Orca ESC and Orca Motor. Very very smooth compared to the Tekin, and it seems to have the same speed. Mark was running the Tekin with a DUO and we seemed to have dead even speed on the electronics.
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:19 AM   #5245
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Hi I'm really interested in how the top drivers work out the oil weights to use

Is there some generally accepted wisdom on selecting oil weight for a particular track layout or track surface

Or is it a matter of getting the weight transfer ideal for your approach to driving the circuit (driving style)
Shock oil and pistons is a very important area. Things that typically impact my decisions on shock oil/pistons is how bumpy the track is and also how stable my car is in it's transitions. For example at the nats I noticed my car was feeling very twitchy on power through chicanes and my diffs were not lasting more than 2 runs. You won't see diffs have that issue in 17.5 or 13.5 so quickly, but in mod, if the transitions are too quick I tend to see it on the track and in the diffs not lasting. So I went from 45 front and 40 rear to 70 front and 55 rear, all of a sudden my diffs lasted as normal and I could put the power down through the chicanes.

When the track is bumpy I find it is better to go with a slightly thicker oil than normal, but with really large holes to avoid pack. The smaller the hole the more pack you will get under quick compression, which will lead to a very bouncy car and therefore a general lack of grip. You don't want to go too high on the oil as this can lead to pack as well, or too big on the holes as this can lead to a car that transitions to much and also seems to take away from overall corner speed.

hope that helps.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:11 AM   #5246
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Hi guys
What cvds u usually use with spool?
Can I use 44mm steel tamiya cvds...
And is there any parts you advice to carry with me all the time such as rear uprights etc...
Thanx in advance
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:14 AM   #5247
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Hi guys
What cvds u usually use with spool?
Can I use 44mm steel tamiya cvds...
And is there any parts you advice to carry with me all the time such as rear uprights etc...
Thanx in advance
i use the stock CVD's with no issues at all. as fra as parts I would carry the basics, front and rear arms, front and rear hubs,steering knuckles,caster blocks. If you find the Parma or p dub bumper it will help you save alot of those parts
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:44 AM   #5248
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Originally Posted by cpatel529 View Post
Couple questions:

1. What length universal bones are people running on the front and rear of their Photon? I noticed that A-Main Hobbies sells a 43 mm and a 44.5 mm length aluminum version. Apparently there is also a 46mm version as well (is this the steel one).

I generally run 2mm of track washers on each side for the front and the standard wheel hexes.

I am looking to purchase the LiteModz CVS and not sure if I should order the Photon Front or Photon Rear for the front of the Photon. The LiteModz Photon Fronts are 46mm and the LiteModz Photon Rears are 44mm.

http://www.litemodz.com

2. When running boosted 17.5 is it recommended to run the aluminum, steel or composite spool outdrives?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Chi
Front CVD - 46mm steel in the front, Use the Steel outdrive on the spool will give you the most durable set up.

Rear CVD - 44.5mm aluminum is the standard setup and if you run the rear wide ie ( 2mm front , 4mm rear spacers under the pivot block ) 44 is a little short you'll run just inside of the chamfer on the inside of the outdrive it tends to wear out the short side of the diff. (ball diff) I'd like to ask the litemodz guys to make a 45mm, but havn't yet.

Hope that helps,
James
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:48 AM   #5249
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Thanks James!

I am only ordering a set for the front..

Also, what is the brand of choice for gear diff oil. I see that A-Main sells Mugen in 10k and 100k and also sells Ofna in 10k and 100k. They have a price difference of 50 cents.

Chi
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:50 AM   #5250
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Originally Posted by locked View Post
This is Toronto's "FastCats Depot" summer club racing in the Home Depot parking lot.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

This is just a fun practice race of us slower guys. John on the mic always makes it fun.
There's also RROL out in London Ontario and Durham Radio Control Racing Club.

I don't know of any indoor tracks nearby, but would very much like to.

I don't mean to rain on the Photon parade but the white car with clear wing in lead is a Tamiya 416X!
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