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Old 08-09-2010, 06:00 PM   #5221
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Thought Martin Crisp was running Tamiya? Wow, things change.
+1, and racing stock? Thought he was a Mod one..
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:11 PM   #5222
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+1, and racing stock? Thought he was a Mod one..
Its not stock anymore, Its Expert. And I would consider Martin an expert.

I don't blame him for running 2 classes after travelling 1500 miles.

I imagine a lot more sponsored guys will be running 17.5 expert at races from now on since 13.5 was thrown out the window.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:24 PM   #5223
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Well, it was a great learning experience for my new ride. I love the adjustability of the photon! I think I needed just a little more time to get the steering I wanted, but it was getting close in my very last run of the mod and 17.5 expert a mains. I think I had too much droop as the car was too lazy in transitions in a couple of critical corners, but the balance was good.

Yeah I really was hoping there would have been a 13.5 class as the 17.5 is a little slow for my liking, but I figured I needed as much experience with the car as possible.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:37 PM   #5224
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Martin, how about posting your setup?
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:03 PM   #5225
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Well, it was a great learning experience for my new ride. I love the adjustability of the photon! I think I needed just a little more time to get the steering I wanted, but it was getting close in my very last run of the mod and 17.5 expert a mains. I think I had too much droop as the car was too lazy in transitions in a couple of critical corners, but the balance was good.

Yeah I really was hoping there would have been a 13.5 class as the 17.5 is a little slow for my liking, but I figured I needed as much experience with the car as possible.
Good run ...martin....
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:32 PM   #5226
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
Well, it was a great learning experience for my new ride. I love the adjustability of the photon! I think I needed just a little more time to get the steering I wanted, but it was getting close in my very last run of the mod and 17.5 expert a mains. I think I had too much droop as the car was too lazy in transitions in a couple of critical corners, but the balance was good.

Yeah I really was hoping there would have been a 13.5 class as the 17.5 is a little slow for my liking, but I figured I needed as much experience with the car as possible.

Martin - Any chance of an updated setup book? With quite a few new adjustments in cars nowadays, as well as the lighter weight and more powerful motors. It would be good to see your excellent setup book updated, i know myself and plenty of others would buy a new copy
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:55 AM   #5227
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μ.PRO
LIGHT WT. GEAR DIFF. MAINTANANCE KIT (PRO STOCK ED.)
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T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-mp-tp-0002.jpg  
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:18 AM   #5228
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EJ Evans, what happend?
setup problems?
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Old 08-11-2010, 05:21 AM   #5229
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I also seen the manual never mentioned putting thread lock on the cv grub screws, but I put some on jus from past experience of cars
Just put some thread lock on the cv grub screws, but it caused the cv to stop working properly... its all bound up and is stopping the steering action in the front of the car...

anyone got any ideas on how to remove the thread lock?? haha...
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Old 08-11-2010, 06:02 AM   #5230
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You put to much on
you only need the smallest amount ie: a very thin smear, not a blob

get some motor spray and spray it in the cv, pull it apart then allow it to soak in a small container with some motor spray for a bit
then clean it with a clean cloth
assemble with smallest amount
once is assembled get a clean rag an wipe any residue off from the cv an ya set to go
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:54 AM   #5231
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
Martin, how about posting your setup?
I don't have my car in front of me so this will be by memory, but here it goes

Tires: Solaris

Front:
Camber -2
Springs: 324
Shock oil: 70 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 3 from outside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium low
- upper links: inside shims 2mm, no outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
toe out: 0.5 deg
droop: 1.5mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
ackerman:
- front hole in steering knuckle
- all the way forward on center steering assembly.
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm forward
Track width spacers: 0.5mm all the way around



Back:
Camber -2
Springs: 306
Shock oil: 55 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 1 from inside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium high
- upper links: inside shims 3mm, 2mm outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
Track width spacers: 2mm on front, 3.5 on rear
toe in: 1.875 deg ((3.5 - 2)/0,8)
droop: 2.5 mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm backward

The I did not try this setup until the last round of the triple A main, and it finally gave me a good amount of steering, but the car rolled too much, and I lost time in transitions. The steering was mainly achieved by going from 2mm to 3mm of spacers on the rear inside upper link, but with the droop settings so high, the car rolled too much and wanted to keep turning the corner on exit. If I had one more run, I would have gone to between 0.5mm and 1mm front droop and 1.5 mm rear droop.

Also I don't like the fact that I reduced the rear toe so much to get the steering, as this hurt my ability to get on the power in mod on exit of the corner, and also contributed to the car wanting to keep turning as it finished the corner, so I still need to figure out a combination that allows me to run at least 2.5 if not 3 degrees of rear toe. More time and I will figure it out
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Old 08-11-2010, 03:29 PM   #5232
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Yeah thanks for that, I went for the blob to start with!
I've got them soaking in WD40 at the moment..

Won't do that again..

What else should I thread lock on the photon?
done so far:
Middle Pulley mount,
Sway bar set screws..
CV set screws

how about the spool?








Quote:
Originally Posted by paraletic View Post
You put to much on
you only need the smallest amount ie: a very thin smear, not a blob

get some motor spray and spray it in the cv, pull it apart then allow it to soak in a small container with some motor spray for a bit
then clean it with a clean cloth
assemble with smallest amount
once is assembled get a clean rag an wipe any residue off from the cv an ya set to go
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:18 PM   #5233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
I don't have my car in front of me so this will be by memory, but here it goes

Tires: Solaris

Front:
Camber -2
Springs: 324
Shock oil: 70 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 3 from outside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium low
- upper links: inside shims 2mm, no outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
toe out: 0.5 deg
droop: 1.5mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
ackerman:
- front hole in steering knuckle
- all the way forward on center steering assembly.
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm forward
Track width spacers: 0.5mm all the way around



Back:
Camber -2
Springs: 306
Shock oil: 55 assoc
Shock position on arm: middle
Shock position on shock tower: 1 from inside
roll center settings:
- arms : Medium high
- upper links: inside shims 3mm, 2mm outside shims
Upper link was located in inner most hole on camber plate
Track width spacers: 2mm on front, 3.5 on rear
toe in: 1.875 deg ((3.5 - 2)/0,8)
droop: 2.5 mm (measured by the difference between the car at rest and when the car is lifted up to the point when the tires are just about to come off the setup board.)
Spacers on hing pins : 2mm backward

The I did not try this setup until the last round of the triple A main, and it finally gave me a good amount of steering, but the car rolled too much, and I lost time in transitions. The steering was mainly achieved by going from 2mm to 3mm of spacers on the rear inside upper link, but with the droop settings so high, the car rolled too much and wanted to keep turning the corner on exit. If I had one more run, I would have gone to between 0.5mm and 1mm front droop and 1.5 mm rear droop.

Also I don't like the fact that I reduced the rear toe so much to get the steering, as this hurt my ability to get on the power in mod on exit of the corner, and also contributed to the car wanting to keep turning as it finished the corner, so I still need to figure out a combination that allows me to run at least 2.5 if not 3 degrees of rear toe. More time and I will figure it out
Hi I'm really interested in how the top drivers work out the oil weights to use

Is there some generally accepted wisdom on selecting oil weight for a particular track layout or track surface

Or is it a matter of getting the weight transfer ideal for your approach to driving the circuit (driving style)
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:21 PM   #5234
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I never did the spool on mine (but I also havnt had a big run with it so hopefully it won't come loose- I used the tapered screws)

I put a small amount of thread lock on the bell crank screw (the one used to adjust the length etc from position a,b&c)
I also glued the nut into the bell crank for easier adjustment

and the front bumper nuts I glued them into the bumper aswell

did you put longer screws in the suspension mounts?
I didn't like that the screws only went into the bulkheads a couple of mm
the bulkheads are threaded all way threw so I put longer screws in for a bit of added security
also put longer screws into the front body posts, the kit ones seemed way to short for my liking
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:15 PM   #5235
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Thanks for the setup Martin!

Is any one running the plastic drive cups on the spool? Mine seemed to "notch" very quickly.
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