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Old 08-02-2010, 09:08 PM   #5116
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Thanks for all the advice especially regarding spares and how to build shocks properly!

Just wondering what some of the regular Photon drivers use for Bodies for rubber carpet racing? ... Speed 6 / LTC-R / R9-R ?

If anyone is still using a ball diff, do you use the associated black grease in the thrust bearing or if Mr. Fairtrance wants to write another essay on this topic that would be fine too.

And going to 2 previous questions: Can you compensate with shock oils to make up for lack of harder springs? And if using Aluminum steering arms b/c the holes are different than the stock plastic ones can you compensate by changing the length of the bell crank?

All answers are much appreciated.

Ivan
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:46 AM   #5117
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Thanks for all the advice especially regarding spares and how to build shocks properly!

Just wondering what some of the regular Photon drivers use for Bodies for rubber carpet racing? ... Speed 6 / LTC-R / R9-R ?

If anyone is still using a ball diff, do you use the associated black grease in the thrust bearing or if Mr. Fairtrance wants to write another essay on this topic that would be fine too.

And going to 2 previous questions: Can you compensate with shock oils to make up for lack of harder springs? And if using Aluminum steering arms b/c the holes are different than the stock plastic ones can you compensate by changing the length of the bell crank?

All answers are much appreciated.

Ivan
For carpet racing it's mostly a speed 6 or if you like the feel of it, an ltc-r. I've not tried the R9-R though

As for the diff, yes black grease on the thrust, normal grease on the plates/balls
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:31 AM   #5118
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
And going to 2 previous questions: Can you compensate with shock oils to make up for lack of harder springs?
No, damping and springing are different things. A softly sprung yet heavily damped car will feel lazy, whereas a stiffly sprung lightly damped car will feel edgy.

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And if using Aluminum steering arms b/c the holes are different than the stock plastic ones can you compensate by changing the length of the bell crank?
No, you won't get a perfect compensation. Personally speaking I believe you will be able to get a completely satisfactory ackerman effect using either steering block, there is a lot of fine adjustment in the crank. If you need more aggressive steering, simply make the crank longer, or use a narrower insert.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:34 AM   #5119
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Note that the 10K to 50K oil suggestion from RC Market is cSt, not SAE.
Yes is Xceed CST !
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:48 AM   #5120
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I've jus ordered myself a new photon so I'm tryin to get some info etc on it

I can't seem to find what the internal ratio is of this car, I checked on gear chart.com but it's not listed, only the scythe (are they the same ratio?)

will kimbrough spur gears fit the spur mount?
Are the steel dogbones up front a necesity?

I've ordered the T.O.P mid size servo saver
are there any other "must get" items
I'll be running this in 17.5 rubber asphault

cheers
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:06 AM   #5121
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Did you take the internal gears apart? Make sure the shims are seated properly on the outdrive shaft.
When I took it apart, there were shims underneather the two gears which the outdrive shaft goes on and a bearing which slides on from the outside. If you're talking about the shims underneath the gear, then yes I have made sure it sits perfectly.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:13 AM   #5122
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Originally Posted by paraletic View Post
I've jus ordered myself a new photon so I'm tryin to get some info etc on it

I can't seem to find what the internal ratio is of this car, I checked on gear chart.com but it's not listed, only the scythe (are they the same ratio?)
2.0:1

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will kimbrough spur gears fit the spur mount?
I think Kimbrough's have the wrong hole count (6). The Photon has a four-peg spur adaptor. I use Kawada gears. Xenon and other Japanese gears should suit.

Unfortunately, you either need to modify the spur gear (ream out the holes) or the adaptor (trim the pegs) to get them to fit.

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Are the steel dogbones up front a necesity?
Unless you are a flawless driver who never, ever clips anything and never, ever gets clipped by anyone else - I would say yes!

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I've ordered the T.O.P mid size servo saver
are there any other "must get" items
I'll be running this in 17.5 rubber asphault

cheers
The TOP saver is a repackaged Kimbrough and is a good choice. No other parts are necessary on the car and the only area that needs a little attention is the shock build as detailed a few posts above. So, get a set of fine 3mm shims, and you might like to get a small selection of alternative springs and 3mm spacers for tuning.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:39 AM   #5123
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Cheers

are there optional sized diff pullies or such to lower the internal ratio?
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:52 AM   #5124
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I too have just picked up this chassis to run this summer. Its a new to me kit and was setup by the old owner to run 17.5 carpet with 2 runs on it. I plan on running 13.5 tarmac. Can someone direct me to a set up using stock kit parts only.

I plan on stocking up on some parts today and I looking for advice on what spares to buy and tunning options. I am not a great driver so look like steel bones should be at the TOP of my list. I do plan on running carpet in the fall. So a recommend spring selection would help.
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:02 AM   #5125
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Cheers

are there optional sized diff pullies or such to lower the internal ratio?
Not that I know of - why would you want to change it?
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:05 AM   #5126
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I too have just picked up this chassis to run this summer. Its a new to me kit and was setup by the old owner to run 17.5 carpet with 2 runs on it. I plan on running 13.5 tarmac. Can someone direct me to a set up using stock kit parts only.

I plan on stocking up on some parts today and I looking for advice on what spares to buy and tunning options. I am not a great driver so look like steel bones should be at the TOP of my list. I do plan on running carpet in the fall. So a recommend spring selection would help.
Kit setup in the back of the manual will be a good starting point and will use all the kit parts!

For springs, it depends on how high the grip is. Here in the UK we tend to have lower grip than in the US so only the grade between the kit springs really gets used. From reading US setups, the front end seems to get set a lot harder for the higher grip, but for our tracks, the car doesn't steer if set up that hard!
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:07 AM   #5127
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Cheers

are there optional sized diff pullies or such to lower the internal ratio?
Later !
U interest use which gear ratio ?
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:10 AM   #5128
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I use kimbrough gears 99 percent of the time with no problem. All you have to do is ream out the 4 holes that the spur gear holder goes into and you are all set. It takes about 30 seconds to do this.
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:18 PM   #5129
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Default love the photon

I'm currently building the photon and enjoying it, until I got to the roll bar links... I had taken note of the many build tips/blogs around on the build and pre-threaded the plastic link with a 3x10m hex screw several times before attempting to screw in the hollow alu roll bar link.. I got it 99% in and was wanting to get the link flush/square and broke it... these things are made of butter.

The (rubber) kit came with steel outdrives for the spool, should I use these?

Does the steel outdrive use a different screw (into the pulley)?

and... I'm a little confused with the universal shafts and the amendments to the manual..
Should I be using the 46mm in the front and the shorter in the rear + put the plastic C - on the dogbone for the rear... ?

There is a set of shims for the universal shafts.... (one only) should I use these on the shorter rear outdrives to remove the play between the hub and the hex wheel adapter?
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:26 PM   #5130
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Originally Posted by anthony_ling View Post
I'm currently building the photon and enjoying it, until I got to the roll bar links... I had taken note of the many build tips/blogs around on the build and pre-threaded the plastic link with a 3x10m hex screw several times before attempting to screw in the hollow alu roll bar link.. I got it 99% in and was wanting to get the link flush/square and broke it... these things are made of butter.
I Broke too, Used a hotbodies parts, most strong than TOP parts...
The (rubber) kit came with steel outdrives for the spool, should I use these?
Yes Use a Steel Outdrive
Does the steel outdrive use a different screw (into the pulley)?
use silver flat head Screw in spool bag
and... I'm a little confused with the universal shafts and the amendments to the manual..
Should I be using the 46mm in the front and the shorter in the rear + put the plastic C - on the dogbone for the rear... ?
yes, alu 46mm in front, alu 44.5 in rear with C-blade

There is a set of shims for the universal shafts.... (one only) should I use these on the shorter rear outdrives to remove the play between the hub and the hex wheel adapter?
in my kit not found a shim, but put 0,2 in rear and 0,1 in front
is LTD rubber version, Right?
careful not to tighten too much ball cup shocks.
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