T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
#5071
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Thanks for the quick answers Tony and the set up Larry!
Just a follow up regarding the shocks. At our track, I generally run 17.5. Are you guys using stiffer springs because you guys are running faster lower turn motors therefore the stiffer springs reduce body roll? And if I were to use softer springs, can I get away with using thicker oil instead? If you’ve got a simple explanation that would be great.
Regarding the aluminum steering blocks and the rear hole being in a different position. Can that be fixed by using a different steer length position on the bell crank? I would like to get the aluminum one for durability and also when you buy the plastic spares, they come as a package with the rear hub but I’m assuming that doesn’t break as often and I don’t need that many extra.
Thanks,
Ivan
Just a follow up regarding the shocks. At our track, I generally run 17.5. Are you guys using stiffer springs because you guys are running faster lower turn motors therefore the stiffer springs reduce body roll? And if I were to use softer springs, can I get away with using thicker oil instead? If you’ve got a simple explanation that would be great.
Regarding the aluminum steering blocks and the rear hole being in a different position. Can that be fixed by using a different steer length position on the bell crank? I would like to get the aluminum one for durability and also when you buy the plastic spares, they come as a package with the rear hub but I’m assuming that doesn’t break as often and I don’t need that many extra.
Thanks,
Ivan
#5072
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
The problem I have with the Aluminum steering blocks is the rear hole in them for the steering link is in a different spot than the stock ones and Schreff and I always use the rear hole in the plastic blocks on rubber tires. So you have to watch out for that. Every setup I have ever posted uses this rear hole on the stock blocks, the aluminum one changes the ackerman a lot.
#5073
Tech Apprentice
set up info ...needed..
hi i may have missed it but what do you set the droop on , wishbone , hub etc im using the hudy droop gauge , also what about shock lengh , i cant find that mentioned anywhere.......
cheers
cheers
#5074
have a question for yours, how do you tighten the pinion? I can't find space to insert the key...it's new lipo Chassis 2,25
under chassis, there is a hole in spur gear area, but I can't tighten pinion very well...
under chassis, there is a hole in spur gear area, but I can't tighten pinion very well...
#5075
Droop is normally measured to the bottom of the loop on the rear hub, and to the outer lower edge of the front wishbone. For outdoors/rubber, I would personally start at 0 rear/5 front. For carpet/rubber I would go to 1 rear/6 front.
#5076
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Peoples Republic of Northern Virginia
Posts: 5,682
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
#5077
Tech Apprentice
Build the shocks to the "normal" length, it's fine - just don't try and tighten the bottoms all the way up the thread, they won't go that far without damage! A few threads will be visible but they will be concealed by the spring cup.
Droop is normally measured to the bottom of the loop on the rear hub, and to the outer lower edge of the front wishbone. For outdoors/rubber, I would personally start at 0 rear/5 front. For carpet/rubber I would go to 1 rear/6 front.
Droop is normally measured to the bottom of the loop on the rear hub, and to the outer lower edge of the front wishbone. For outdoors/rubber, I would personally start at 0 rear/5 front. For carpet/rubber I would go to 1 rear/6 front.
im running this one indoors , for the rear droop i normaly take the rear hub off and measure on the rear arm and on the front to the c-hub ..
my photon has been going well , but last night was my 4th meeting and my worst !!! .... mostly , all fault of my own .... and not being able to concentrate ( i was knackered !! ) ... cheers
#5078
i use a long hex wrench and go on an angle from the center of the top deck
#5079
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
I just picked up one of these cars, I need to order some parts. I am confused on the difference between v2 and v3 drive shafts, the difference between the 3mm collar washers and the wide 3mm collars. Also what does changing the o-ring in the shocks accomplish?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#5080
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
I just picked up one of these cars, I need to order some parts. I am confused on the difference between v2 and v3 drive shafts, the difference between the 3mm collar washers and the wide 3mm collars. Also what does changing the o-ring in the shocks accomplish?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#5081
I just picked up one of these cars, I need to order some parts. I am confused on the difference between v2 and v3 drive shafts, the difference between the 3mm collar washers and the wide 3mm collars. Also what does changing the o-ring in the shocks accomplish?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
The Ultra Wide Collars are used under the suspension mounts to adjust toe. The small od collars are used to adjust camber link height.
Some racers prefer the 40 durometer 'o'rings to the stock 30's. On the V1 shocks they seem to leak less. On the V2 shocks we use the 30's
#5082
Shocks
The statement above make me wonder if Xray 10th sedan shocks can be used with the Photon.
#5084
#5085
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
The new kits come with the v2 shocks. And if you run xray shocks you'll never be able to use any setups posted on here because getting the shocks to feel the same as the kit shocks will be basically impossible.
And I cant explain how important it is to get your shocks feeling right on this car. It makes a world of difference.
And I cant explain how important it is to get your shocks feeling right on this car. It makes a world of difference.