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Old 11-19-2009, 02:26 PM   #2836
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Originally Posted by jeppesen View Post
Hi guys.

This weekend i was out racing, it was a great weekend with good racing, but i had a little problem, i had way too much grip, there were finals from A to E in the 17.5 rubber class, with 3 photons i the A-main and 2 in the B-main.

It was a photon that won , and became second, i was 6th, i copyed my set-up so it was like the winning car, used the same addhesive (the same bottle), and we race on control tyres.

I had grip roll problems, the two others didnt, the car was slow because of to much grip, we all run the rubber chassis, all stock from the box.

I have been thinking that my chassis is too soft?

Have you heard of such a problem??


And what chassis to bye for rubber carpet racing on medium grip tracks?
I know multiple people have posted this already. But here it goes one more time for good measure. If your running on medium to high grip carpet the stock rubber chassis flexs to much. There for I would suggest you try a foam lipo chassis or stk foam chassis.
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:36 PM   #2837
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I have a rubber spec and I don't have grip roll.

Play with your setup. Change your roll center.
put some glue on the side of the front tires.
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:39 PM   #2838
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when would you want to switch to the wider hex drives for the wheels? is anyone using these?
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:53 PM   #2839
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Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
when would you want to switch to the wider hex drives for the wheels? is anyone using these?

Im running them on the front of my rubber car.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:18 PM   #2840
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace View Post
Im running them on the front of my rubber car.
i guess using the wider hex is just like using wheel spacers?

Last edited by LOW ET; 11-19-2009 at 04:32 PM.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:56 PM   #2841
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i guess using the wider hex is just like using wheel spacers?
Yup, 1mm spacer on each side is the same as the 6.2mm hex.
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Old 11-19-2009, 05:01 PM   #2842
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when would you want to switch to the wider hex drives for the wheels? is anyone using these?
I heard that the wider track makes the car look cooler when it sits on your shelf.
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Old 11-19-2009, 05:17 PM   #2843
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I heard that the wider track makes the car look cooler when it sits on your shelf.
haha, that's awesome.

this car's just getting together, wgt is on the shelf, lol
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:43 AM   #2844
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Why did you mount your steering servo like that?
Is it whit tape mounted to the bottom plate?
Does it stay on his place after a hit?
sorry for the late reply.
i did this just coz i was bored
yeah its just mounted with tape and shoe goo. i did have a couple of hits at racing and it stayed in place fine, it did not move at all. i let the shoe goo dry for 24 hours so this did help to keep it in place better.
i would of liked to use at least 1 servo mount but the chassis is too narrow to put one on. could possibly be able to use a 416 servo mount that goes over the belt.

to be honest i felt no difference running the servo like this. i have more room for the electronics thats all.
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Old 11-20-2009, 06:55 AM   #2845
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sorry for the late reply.
i did this just coz i was bored
yeah its just mounted with tape and shoe goo. i did have a couple of hits at racing and it stayed in place fine, it did not move at all. i let the shoe goo dry for 24 hours so this did help to keep it in place better.
i would of liked to use at least 1 servo mount but the chassis is too narrow to put one on. could possibly be able to use a 416 servo mount that goes over the belt.

to be honest i felt no difference running the servo like this. i have more room for the electronics thats all.
Ok thanks.
I mounted it yesterday like that and I got a lot of space for the electronics.
I changed it back because I was not shore that it would stay in place.
I have in 3 weeks a race and because this weekend will be my first runs on the new layout so I have set everything that I new was working well.
But it looked good. I'm going to see to make a carbon plate mounted on the bottom plate with servo mounts on it. Than I now for shore it will stay in place.

Now I'm looking for a strong 1:12 servo. This fits to and will create more space and a lower weight.
Does any one now a good 1:12 servo with enough speed and power?
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Old 11-20-2009, 10:26 AM   #2846
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Originally Posted by mikky32 View Post
Ok thanks.
I mounted it yesterday like that and I got a lot of space for the electronics.
I changed it back because I was not shore that it would stay in place.
I have in 3 weeks a race and because this weekend will be my first runs on the new layout so I have set everything that I new was working well.
But it looked good. I'm going to see to make a carbon plate mounted on the bottom plate with servo mounts on it. Than I now for shore it will stay in place.

Now I'm looking for a strong 1:12 servo. This fits to and will create more space and a lower weight.
Does any one now a good 1:12 servo with enough speed and power?
KO 951, 108oz of torque! All the other 1/12th servos have only half (or less) this much. I have used this servo and it worked great. The only problem I had is with the mounting ears, since the servo and ears are so much smaller than a full sized servo the servo would move in a hard impact. Better mounting could solve this, but I haven't tried anything yet
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Old 11-20-2009, 11:08 AM   #2847
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KO 951, 108oz of torque! All the other 1/12th servos have only half (or less) this much. I have used this servo and it worked great. The only problem I had is with the mounting ears, since the servo and ears are so much smaller than a full sized servo the servo would move in a hard impact. Better mounting could solve this, but I haven't tried anything yet
Thanks,

I use duel sided tape This keeps the steering servo together with the servo mount's better on his place.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:03 PM   #2848
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Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
KO 951, 108oz of torque! All the other 1/12th servos have only half (or less) this much. I have used this servo and it worked great. The only problem I had is with the mounting ears, since the servo and ears are so much smaller than a full sized servo the servo would move in a hard impact. Better mounting could solve this, but I haven't tried anything yet
Is that servo metal geared?
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:46 PM   #2849
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Is that servo metal geared?

yes it is
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Old 11-21-2009, 04:11 PM   #2850
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Hey Guys,

I ran the KO 951 at the Reedy Race this year and it works/drives great. No problems with the ears or mounting but I will tell you that I don't suggest to use it on a board type track. If you are hitting walls (even with a servo saver) it can break the "boss" for one of the gear pins inside of the case. I've asked KO to make a version of this servo with a brass insert like their other servos to test but as far as I know they haven't made one yet (too many other projects at the moment).

The forward set of holes on the chassis are for this servo. This is also why the bell crank was designed at that height so it would clear that servo and provide tons of room. I thought that servo would be the future of TC if they can make the case/gear train hold up...

Vincent may have been testing the other chassis I drew up - I ran a test version at the ROAR Nats and liked it. You have to keep in mind that by machining the graphite on only one side it can cause the chassis to bow in the direction from the material relieved. Also, it's really hard to make the chassis flex equal in both ways like this and be consistant from chassis to chassis. We are testing an updated version of the Lipo chassis so hopefully it will be sorted and in production soon.

Also, for those talking about the motor/battery position vs. the T3 - The Photon already had the motor on-center further than any other car on the market when it came out. The Xray motor was 2.5mm further from center than the Photon. If they moved their motor further to the center by 3mm then they now have us by just .5mm....

Later!
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