9LikesT.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car
11-09-2009, 01:18 AM
#2686
The performance of the car is great in mod. just as good as any tourer on the market. Ive had this car since it came out and have had no problems with parts wearing out, the plastics are very good quality.
The diff is my fave part about the car, it seems to last forever between rebuilds.
The diff is my fave part about the car, it seems to last forever between rebuilds.
11-09-2009, 04:59 AM
#2687
Tech Master
I became 4th yesterday.
It's the first time that I qualified 4th in 4 years. 1 place better than last year.
Also my best final. 6th was before my best result.
The car was great.
The number 1 was to fast for everyone. he was 0,2 to 0,3 sec per lap faster than the drivers 2 till 5. They were in 0,1 sec from each other.
It was a close race and in the last final it was even hard to reach the 4th place because I had to became 3th.
After 2 laps I was still 4th but when the number 3 made a mistake I wanted to overtake him. He crashed from the site in to me and instead that I got the 3th place I became 6th.
But the car was still going great. Other drivers lost 0,3 sec a lap on there fastest times because the track had to much grip.
I only lost 0,1 sec. I past 2 drivers and the number 1 had to give up with a motor from over the 120 C. So I became 3th.
One other driver had also a 4th and a 3th place but my 3th place was 1 sec better than his and I became 4th.
Now I have 4 points in the Fun drive. That are 5 races were 4 from count.
I drove the rubber spec and I was very happy with the cornering and how the car reacted in the chicane.
I want to make some small changes to the setup because I think that I can get even more out of it.
I drive 10,5 Lipo and the car is strong. No play on the spool. I use the steel cups.
I must replace the drive shafts in the front and the rear.
This is the only thing I must replace. They are still ok but the play becomes now a bit to much.
Best car I ever had. Strong light and fast.
It's the first time that I qualified 4th in 4 years. 1 place better than last year.
Also my best final. 6th was before my best result.
The car was great.
The number 1 was to fast for everyone. he was 0,2 to 0,3 sec per lap faster than the drivers 2 till 5. They were in 0,1 sec from each other.
It was a close race and in the last final it was even hard to reach the 4th place because I had to became 3th.
After 2 laps I was still 4th but when the number 3 made a mistake I wanted to overtake him. He crashed from the site in to me and instead that I got the 3th place I became 6th.
But the car was still going great. Other drivers lost 0,3 sec a lap on there fastest times because the track had to much grip.
I only lost 0,1 sec. I past 2 drivers and the number 1 had to give up with a motor from over the 120 C. So I became 3th.
One other driver had also a 4th and a 3th place but my 3th place was 1 sec better than his and I became 4th.
Now I have 4 points in the Fun drive. That are 5 races were 4 from count.
I drove the rubber spec and I was very happy with the cornering and how the car reacted in the chicane.
I want to make some small changes to the setup because I think that I can get even more out of it.
I drive 10,5 Lipo and the car is strong. No play on the spool. I use the steel cups.
I must replace the drive shafts in the front and the rear.
This is the only thing I must replace. They are still ok but the play becomes now a bit to much.
Best car I ever had. Strong light and fast.
11-09-2009, 06:30 AM
#2688
Bowed Chassis
Guys, does anyone else have this:
My lower chassis plate is bowed. If I lay the car on a flat surface there's a bit of rock and I measure, with the middle touching, a 1mm gap between the board and the front and rear edges of the chassis. If you push the rear down flat then there's a 2mm gap between the board and the front edge of the chassis.
If I undo the top deck the chassis goes back to being flat.
My belts are pretty loose (10mm deflection on the front belt with small pressure and a bit less on the rear belt). I've tried loosening all the bukheads and re torquing them in several differnt orders and normally nip them up before I go around again to tighten. It seems like the upper deck is too short.....
The car is very good, and as I dial in the setup I'm going faster and faster (got FTD club racing yesterday) but I'd like to figure out if there's something up with my kit or if they're all like this.... Anyone else?
Cheers,
Chris.
My lower chassis plate is bowed. If I lay the car on a flat surface there's a bit of rock and I measure, with the middle touching, a 1mm gap between the board and the front and rear edges of the chassis. If you push the rear down flat then there's a 2mm gap between the board and the front edge of the chassis.
If I undo the top deck the chassis goes back to being flat.
My belts are pretty loose (10mm deflection on the front belt with small pressure and a bit less on the rear belt). I've tried loosening all the bukheads and re torquing them in several differnt orders and normally nip them up before I go around again to tighten. It seems like the upper deck is too short.....
The car is very good, and as I dial in the setup I'm going faster and faster (got FTD club racing yesterday) but I'd like to figure out if there's something up with my kit or if they're all like this.... Anyone else?
Cheers,
Chris.
11-09-2009, 06:45 AM
#2689
If it's bowed, all you need now are arrows 
11-09-2009, 06:48 AM
#2690
Tech Regular
Maybe a bent topdeck screw?
11-09-2009, 07:18 AM
#2691
Tech Master
make all the bulkheads a bit loose. Also make the top deck a bit loose and the 2 shock towers.
Don't unscrew it all the way. Just a turn so you get some play.
Than tighten the the bulkheads on the bottom deck. Look if everything is good, so that the bottom deck is flat.
Than ask someone to pres the car down om the plate and tighten the top plate.
Than tighten the shock towers and see if it's still flat.
This way you get the bulkheads on the right place.
Don't unscrew it all the way. Just a turn so you get some play.
Than tighten the the bulkheads on the bottom deck. Look if everything is good, so that the bottom deck is flat.
Than ask someone to pres the car down om the plate and tighten the top plate.
Than tighten the shock towers and see if it's still flat.
This way you get the bulkheads on the right place.
11-09-2009, 07:25 AM
#2692
Take your car
Look at the bin next to you
stick the car in the bin
go get yourself a 416X
Look at the bin next to you
stick the car in the bin
go get yourself a 416X
11-09-2009, 07:28 AM
#2693
11-09-2009, 07:32 AM
#2694
Lol
ok to be helpful
check your wings, might b a good idea to flip them over and use button head screws.
Gonna b working on some new wings for hobo...
ok to be helpful
check your wings, might b a good idea to flip them over and use button head screws.
Gonna b working on some new wings for hobo...
11-09-2009, 07:32 AM
#2695
Micky, as I said in my post, I tried loosening and tightening the bulkheads and decks in many combinations and many times.
Can I take it from your response that you put a straight edge under your car and found it perfectly flat?
Although none were bent I changed all the chassis and top deck screws before last weekend (because the originals were made from cheese) and no effect.
Can I take it from your response that you put a straight edge under your car and found it perfectly flat?
Although none were bent I changed all the chassis and top deck screws before last weekend (because the originals were made from cheese) and no effect.
11-09-2009, 07:41 AM
#2696
Have you tasted them ?
Maybe you should try for a material with similar properties, how about screws made out of chewing gum?
Cheese is a kind of meat
a tasty yellow treat
ooooh cheeeeeese
Or maybe a different cheese ? How about some Tommy Zola? It's a kind of jungle cheese...
Whoever finds out where all that's coming from will earn my eternal respect - not you luke you'll never have my respect, mwah.
Maybe you should try for a material with similar properties, how about screws made out of chewing gum?
Cheese is a kind of meat
a tasty yellow treat
ooooh cheeeeeese
Or maybe a different cheese ? How about some Tommy Zola? It's a kind of jungle cheese...
Whoever finds out where all that's coming from will earn my eternal respect - not you luke you'll never have my respect, mwah.
11-09-2009, 08:45 AM
#2698
Have you watched the Jilles videos? He has some pretty interesting techniques for avoiding tweak when building the car.
I generally have pretty good luck pressing down hard on both shock towers while tightening the top deck, but I'm not sure that could overcome a severely warped chassis. It's not unheard of for CF to be warped.
I generally have pretty good luck pressing down hard on both shock towers while tightening the top deck, but I'm not sure that could overcome a severely warped chassis. It's not unheard of for CF to be warped.
I just put my newly-built (rubber spec) car against a straight edge and it is flat.
If you can't dial the tweak out by looseing and retightening the parts, there must be either a damaged or mismanufactured part in there somewhere.
Have you changed any parts from box stock?
11-09-2009, 08:48 AM
#2699
The Photon is unusual in that it uses countersunk scews for the top and bottom decks. So, you can't build a tweak into it, but also can't build a tweak out of it. You count on the parts being exactly right.
I just put my newly-built (rubber spec) car against a straight edge and it is flat.
If you can't dial the tweak out by looseing and retightening the parts, there must be either a damaged or mismanufactured part in there somewhere.
Have you changed any parts from box stock?
I just put my newly-built (rubber spec) car against a straight edge and it is flat.
If you can't dial the tweak out by looseing and retightening the parts, there must be either a damaged or mismanufactured part in there somewhere.
Have you changed any parts from box stock?
