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Old 07-21-2009, 08:55 AM   #1546
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Finally some clarity! Only one question left just to make sure the horse is dead...

Which of those two settings should provide the most aggressive steering?
Smaller ackermann angle - ie towards the front-9 setting - will be more aggressive.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:33 AM   #1547
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NEW Li-Po Weight
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T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-top-po-pbw101.jpg   T.O.P. Racing "Photon" 1/10 EP Touring Car-top-po-plw005.jpg  
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:01 PM   #1548
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Need Help!! I put the shocks together and put oil in it. Bled the air out and put the top cap on. My question is do I unloosen the bottom cap and push the shaft in to get the proper amount of rebound? If so how much rebound should I have?
Next question sway bar. I put the 17.1 in the front and the 14 in the rear. The rear sway bar collers wouldn't make it around the end of the sway bar. So do I leave the sway bar loose and put the car on the Hudy gages and put the tires on then tighten the set screws in the back? If so how tight do I tighten the set screws? Do I want the sway bar to be free in the back?
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:13 PM   #1549
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Originally Posted by wayne breault View Post
Need Help!! I put the shocks together and put oil in it. Bled the air out and put the top cap on. My question is do I unloosen the bottom cap and push the shaft in to get the proper amount of rebound? If so how much rebound should I have?
Next question sway bar. I put the 17.1 in the front and the 14 in the rear. The rear sway bar collers wouldn't make it around the end of the sway bar. So do I leave the sway bar loose and put the car on the Hudy gages and put the tires on then tighten the set screws in the back? If so how tight do I tighten the set screws? Do I want the sway bar to be free in the back?
Typical rebound is about 4 to 6 mm
I'd recommend bleeding them from the top.
For all practical purposes almost no rebound.
As for the screw, just use it to take up the slack.
Tightening it down will only bind up the rear suspension.
The bar needs to move freely but have very little play in it.
Best sway bar mounts yet in this car, or any one since...
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Old 07-21-2009, 02:32 PM   #1550
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Need Help!! I put the shocks together and put oil in it. Bled the air out and put the top cap on. My question is do I unloosen the bottom cap and push the shaft in to get the proper amount of rebound?

Here are the steps I follow to set rebound:
  • Fill your shocks.
  • Bleed out the air.
  • Push the piston up until you have about 6mm of the shaft showing (or your desired amount of rebound).
  • Install your shock bladder, making sure it is sitting flat on top of the shock. You will have excess oil spill out.
  • Install the cap.

This should give you the proper amount of rebound.

This video of Jilles Groskamp rebuilding his shocks is a great guide to how to build your shocks. Yes it's Tamiya but the theory still applies...

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-21-2009, 02:36 PM   #1551
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Originally Posted by wayne breault View Post
Need Help!! I put the shocks together and put oil in it. Bled the air out and put the top cap on. My question is do I unloosen the bottom cap and push the shaft in to get the proper amount of rebound? If so how much rebound should I have?
Next question sway bar. I put the 17.1 in the front and the 14 in the rear. The rear sway bar collers wouldn't make it around the end of the sway bar. So do I leave the sway bar loose and put the car on the Hudy gages and put the tires on then tighten the set screws in the back? If so how tight do I tighten the set screws? Do I want the sway bar to be free in the back?
for the shocks the more traction you have the more rebound you can run, typically i'll run as little rebound as possible, you should never have to loosen the bottom cap to adjust rebound. usually to get no rebound i'll leave the shock shaft all the way out and roll the top cap all the way in pushing out oil so the cap sits flush with the top of the shock, to get more rebound (and also pack) you can push the shaft 1/2 or all the way up in the shock then roll the bladder in loose then pull the piston down and that will suck the bladder into the shock, where you start with the piston and how much you suck will relate to how much rebound you get. at least thats how i do it.

for the sway bars you want the set screws on the shock towere tight enough to hold the sway bar in place vertically but not to limit the rotation, if you tighten them down you'll limit the rotation and add stiffness to the sway bar which will be hard to adjust side to side, josh had posted about only putting a shim on one side of the sway bar and glueing the set screw to the ball on the other so you can adjust the bars up and down, after you do this you can pretty much set the sways bars like you would droop by lifting up the car and seeing which side raises off first and then adjusting the screw.
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:09 PM   #1552
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Thank you very much for all the help. You cleared up all my questions with easily understood answers. Thanks again,
Wayne Breaullt
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:47 PM   #1553
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[*]Push the piston up until you have about 6mm of the shaft showing (or your desired amount of rebound).


Actually he pushed it up all the way ... then screwed the cap on to achieve 6mm of rebound.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:07 PM   #1554
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Well, I got my Photon on the track for the first time tonight, and I've come across a couple items I could use some advice on.

1. Is anyone having difficulty keeping their layshaft locked in position? I had the screws threadlocked and in tight, and on the first lap, I think it popped up, which ruined the spur gear.. I am thinking locking washers underneath the screw maybe?

2. Speaking of the spur gear - What is the easiest way to change it (i.e. disassembling the least amount of stuff)? I tried pulling just the two screws holding the layshaft in, but couldn't get enough play in the belts to pull it out the top...

3. Any suggestions on how to tighten the pinion set-screw without removing the top deck? Is everyone using super-thin pinions or something? I get my pinion lined up properly with the spur and the setscrew winds up under the left side of the top deck and cannot be tightened enough to secure it unless I remove the top deck.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:12 PM   #1555
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You can get to the pinion for the bottom you just have to hold the belt over
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:06 PM   #1556
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3. Any suggestions on how to tighten the pinion set-screw without removing the top deck? Is everyone using super-thin pinions or something? I get my pinion lined up properly with the spur and the setscrew winds up under the left side of the top deck and cannot be tightened enough to secure it unless I remove the top deck.
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You can get to the pinion for the bottom you just have to hold the belt over
There is in fact an access hole in the bottom of the chassis. Another option though is to pick up one of the TOP 1.5 ball end wrenches. It works well and despite the small size holds up very well also. Can beat it for the price.

Gotta warn ya though once you try the TOP tools you probably want the full line.
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Old 07-22-2009, 02:34 AM   #1557
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Originally Posted by Thirtybird View Post
Well, I got my Photon on the track for the first time tonight, and I've come across a couple items I could use some advice on.

1. Is anyone having difficulty keeping their layshaft locked in position? I had the screws threadlocked and in tight, and on the first lap, I think it popped up, which ruined the spur gear.. I am thinking locking washers underneath the screw maybe?
Yes I had this problem after 2 runs. Solved it using threadlock and a 2mm driver tightening each screw at the same time.
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:16 AM   #1558
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Originally Posted by Josh Cyrul View Post
Wow... I'm starting to think I shouldn't have put all these adjustments in the car..lol.. Everyone seems confussed.

Ackerman:

21mm (short) Bell Crank w/ #12 Insert is the most ackerman you can run. This means there is a large difference between inside/outside wheel angles when turning.


24mm (long) Bell Crank w/ #9 Insert is the least ackerman you can run. This means there is a smaller difference between the inside/outside wheel angles when turning.

Endpoints:

Usually 25 degrees is the max endpoint setting for most tracks - Anymore than this you will scrub the front tires in excess. I think I posted that the castor block stop is at 30 degrees as we need that extra 5 degrees for some of those really tight indoor carpet tracks just to turn around in the lanes. If you use a .5mm shim between the castor block and steering block (at the stop) then this will get you 25 degrees.

RC:

On the set-up sheet - H = High and L = Low. If you run FF at "M" and FR at "H" then this is anti-dive. If you run FF at "H" and FR at "M" then this is kick-up.
In other words, I was right on both the ackerman and the anti-dive... Maybe I'm asking the wrong people for input
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Old 07-22-2009, 04:43 AM   #1559
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Congratulations?


You may want to check you head fits out the door when u go to leave the house.....

Ducks and runs for cover lol!
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Last edited by Luke Hobson; 07-22-2009 at 05:28 AM.
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:42 AM   #1560
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I'm trying to put a 306 spring on my shocks but the spring nut spacer 14mm dosen't fit the spring. It fits the dampening spring holder so should I just leave them out?
Wayne
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