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Old 11-05-2004, 08:55 PM
  #271  
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What sodier are ya using?
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Old 11-05-2004, 09:05 PM
  #272  
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Originally posted by tunerjetta29
Well after a day at the track im a little frustrated. I cant get the wires to solder to my V2 at all, sanding, roughing up the surface, flux ,nothing seems to help the solder stick?? I have even had a few of the local track guys try and no one seems to be able to figure out why the solder just wont stick? And this is without even running the motor. Anyone have any ideas or tips??
You need to use a nice hot iron to solder those wires onto the endbell of a V2. An 80w iron should work well.
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Old 11-06-2004, 05:18 AM
  #273  
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hi i have a question regarding the width of the armature shaft and witch v2's come with the 4mm shaft and witch come with the 5mm shaft thanks
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Old 11-06-2004, 07:42 AM
  #274  
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I am using Deans Solder, and i have an electronic soldering iron that i can adjust the temperatire on up to 850 degrees Farenheit. So i dont think the solder or heat is the problem?? What have you guys been using solder wise to get the wires on??
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:09 AM
  #275  
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Javen, I assume you actually mean stack thickness. The Off rd (blue endbell) come with 5mm stack, the on rd (Black endbell) come with 4mm stack.

tunerjetta, If you have an electronics iron, does it have a small tip? If so it won't transfer enough of that heat. I use a 45wt iron with a large tip (about 8mm) anh have no problems soldering to the brush tubes.
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:27 AM
  #276  
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tunerjetta29

Make sure you have not got the end bell fitted to the can (The can will suck all the heat through the aluminium end bell) and I use a 4.5mm chissel tip with standard 60/40 solder and a 50w iron.
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:57 AM
  #277  
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Well that must be my problem, i an trying to solder the wires with the bell fitted to the can. Ill try soldering it with the bell off. Thanks
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Old 11-06-2004, 02:08 PM
  #278  
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I always solder with the motor fully built. Can't help thinking it would be a pain to re-build the motor with the the endbell already soldered to the ESC wires.
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Old 11-06-2004, 02:19 PM
  #279  
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Well thats what i figured as well, and as i expected it made no difference. It is really confusing as to what would cause the solder not to stick. Even with a rough surface and flux.....? Does anyone have any clear pics of their wires so i can see exactly how they are attached?
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Old 11-06-2004, 03:34 PM
  #280  
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There's a pic of HARA's solder job on the this thread.
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Old 11-06-2004, 03:36 PM
  #281  
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Here is apicture of mine.

O by the way u do not have to remove the endbell but the heat will not be drawn away from the solder points as easy. Why do you think a lot of people have problems soldering th V2 endbell and not standard ones.
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Old 11-06-2004, 03:38 PM
  #282  
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Sorry heres the picture.
Attached Thumbnails Orion V2-v2-endbell.jpg  
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Old 11-06-2004, 06:14 PM
  #283  
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Alright well that gives me an idea of what to try, can you tell me, does it increase the resistance much or harm output/run time using a deans connector between the ESC and Motor?? I only ask because that is the first time ive seen that and really thought about it.
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Old 11-06-2004, 06:20 PM
  #284  
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You probably wouldn't notice a huge difference but it's always better to hard wire IMO. Plugs can come apart. I've seen people have a wire accadently get pulled by a turn marshall and suddenly no more power. When I had to run plugs when I first started racing years ago I used to zip tie them together so they couldn't come apart.
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Old 11-06-2004, 06:23 PM
  #285  
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The actual plug wont add any resistance at all, what will add resistance is bad soldering to the plug, its four extra soldering points over hard wiring straight to the motor which if done badly will add a lot of resistance. Done well you wont notice any different between using plugs and hard wiring though.
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