First I want to thank Mr. Epp for coming on here and asking what we thought. That shows a lot of class and that he is a true service kinda guy. Now that I see the real car and the rc version side by side they are not that far of in fact. I think where the problem lies for me is the area right in front of the fron wheels. It seems longer and lower than the what the full size car is. The Corvette and then the many HPI bodies have a more true look to them.
First I want to thank Mr. Epp for coming on here and asking what we thought. That shows a lot of class and that he is a true service kinda guy. Now that I see the real car and the rc version side by side they are not that far of in fact. I think where the problem lies for me is the area right in front of the fron wheels. It seems longer and lower than the what the full size car is. The Corvette and then the many HPI bodies have a more true look to them.
+1! Paul is also on this thread, and I extend the same appreciation. Having both representatives on this thread is going to make for a pleasant and constructive discussion.
I think what we're all trying to say here is that, like Protoform's C6R (and a beautiful one at that), I am pretty sure the other cars can be made with the same realism and resemblance. If the wheelbase or tire diameters don't cut it, then let's shoot for another WGT car. For example, Lamborghini? I am quite sure that car can be made to scale and meet the requirements without it turning into a blob. Plus the car is slightly a wedge already. The Pagani Zonda is another car. The Aston Martin should be able to look like its 1:1 counterpart, so I cannot understand the wedge. A Saleen S7R is another, and the list goes on.
In essence, the 1:1 cars that already look like wedges could be made to scale realism just fine IMHO, considering scale tire diameter and wheelbase.
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Car(s): Robitronic AVID, Motonica P81, Xray T3
Motors/Engines: Tekin Redline 17.5, Novarossi 21P, Team Express 17.5 DUO (2x)
Radio: Spektrum DX3R, DX3S
Future Car(s): Robitronic AVID 2, FG Evo 08-530 with Killam Corvette Body
Track(s): http://www.rctrack.com, http://www.301raceway.com (Coming next year!!)
For our outdoor track rules we allow any two door street car body. That allows for mor variety on the track. When I did travel to a couple races I did run the PF Vette, but on our track I ran the HPI Trans Am.
The requirement of front engine cars will rule out a lot of th e "GT" cars out there.
Perhaps that is another section of the rules that needs to be ammended. I am sure Dale and Chuck would really like that part since it will broaden their range of cars they can make, produce, and sell.
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Car(s): Robitronic AVID, Motonica P81, Xray T3
Motors/Engines: Tekin Redline 17.5, Novarossi 21P, Team Express 17.5 DUO (2x)
Radio: Spektrum DX3R, DX3S
Future Car(s): Robitronic AVID 2, FG Evo 08-530 with Killam Corvette Body
Track(s): http://www.rctrack.com, http://www.301raceway.com (Coming next year!!)
I'm sure that most mid-engine GT cars wouldn't be able to fit with the 135mm hood length, too. Now that would lead to more of a blob look. The shells we have to choose from are really close to looking like the real thing.
If the 1:1 ARC8 was 'race massaged' like all race cars are, you'd find that the sides would also come almost straight down. The hoods could be more scale, height wise to reflect more of the real world cars, as in race form most series that I know of require the use of an OEM hood (or hood dimensions/shape of the OEM)...
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RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
The best body I ever thought for proportions for 1/10 was the HPI Lotus Elise, which is why I used it for my TC's early on, until I realised, sadly, that if I wanted to be competitive I would have to use the Dodges and Mazda's etc.
They're still nor perfect but hopefully you can see what I mean
I really like how HPI did the wing mount on that. I understand molding the mount into the body is more cost effective and probably a good deal stronger then using actual wing mount pieces...but it just doesn't look as good. That's one thing I really like about the Mulsanne too. If it really came down to it I'd rather use the old wing wire and buttons to attach the wings to the car then the ones molded into a body.
what are you talking about? the zonda doesn't have any wing mounts. the back end is completely flat.
You all know, one thing I have noticed is that you all have some type of bias to the car you THINK has the best proportioning or wether it is to true 10 scale.
Skiddens is a good example that may think that the current WGT bodies are not in true 10 scale proportion and there are design flaws in the RC version. The Lotus RC bodies you posted compared to the real one is not even as close as Dale's Sophia body is the the real car.
So some of guys when you are on the drivers stand driving are thinking to your selves,
"Man my toy rc car looks so cool and realistic on the track, look how I can power slide this baby way out of the line because I can not hold it! Man I love this hobby!"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins
The best body I ever thought for proportions for 1/10 was the HPI Lotus Elise, which is why I used it for my TC's early on, until I realised, sadly, that if I wanted to be competitive I would have to use the Dodges and Mazda's etc.
They're still nor perfect but hopefully you can see what I mean
Keep in mind - You guys are posting images of bodies you like with TC tires on them. Some rubber and some foam but either way they are quite a bit larger than the WGT tires. Jaco's rims are only 1.875" and I believe the BSR's are around 1.92". The TC rims are 50-53mm depending on the mfg. (1.96"-2.08"). Large tires in WGT are still smaller than the smallest race tires we run now so again it's hard to proportion. The max wheel size is 2" for WGT but no one has made anything that size (yes, they've been drawn for 2-3 years..lol)
Add in the fact that most of the WGT races are on high bite carpet it tends to want to get the body low to keep traction rolling and lifting tires to a minimum so the cars are easy and fun to drive. It's a balance and while people may say that the bodies Parma and Protoform have made are out of line or whatever but they have made as close of the origional replicas as they could while fitting the rules and trying to get the performance to get everyone out there to buy one.
Wing wire and buttons is a pain in the #*@. I'll pass on that notion and ROAR even finally got smart and pulled that rule from the oval side. With standardized mounts it's easy to make trim lines and keep bodies to the legal limits and heights.
Dale-I like the Sophia body. It was not too hard to pick out the full scale car it resembled. I like pictures of both in my threads. The body fit my GenX10 like a glove. The only complaint I have is with the nose radiator inlet decal's outer shape. Looks like it belongs on another car athough it is the same shape as this full size. That little upward tilt to the bottom may be important. A little more smile so to speak. There is not enough red underneath to give the rounded nose appearance. It was easy to remove, though or reshape for that matter; I did not try. I could not find a photo of the car in race trim for reasons mentioned above.
I race on outdoor asphalt with medium grip, so I have mounted fullsize tires for a test.
Here is another car body that is aproved and has a full size racing counterpart. HPI Nissan GTR.
Note after enlarging, click on the pic again to make it original size, then hit your full screen box. It is clearer that way.
What your wing is not graphite? Check out those GFR body posts from lefthander-RC.com.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-05-2009 at 02:41 PM.
Wing wire and buttons is a pain in the #*@. I'll pass on that notion and ROAR even finally got smart and pulled that rule from the oval side. With standardized mounts it's easy to make trim lines and keep bodies to the legal limits and heights.
Just my .02....
Oh I agree they were a pain in the buttocks...But when done right they look vastly better then a bubble in the back of the car that mates up to a bubble in the wing that has to be bolted together. My preference would be a solid wing mount like the one in the Zonda pic, or the Mulsanne, or like many of the Tamiya bodies.