HPI Pro 3
08-30-2001, 06:54 PM
#46
Regional Moderator
TRF-Powered: i think it is competitve but of course it can always be improved. personally i dont think it needs that many hop-ups. i think all you need is to stiffen the chassis and that can be done by getting one of the many upperdecks in the market or the swithcing to the Graphite tub chassis (or both depending how stiff you want it to get). i think the other hop ups are ok but you can live without them. as of now im still running the kit basically stock and without an upper deck and its doing well for me, and i do mod racing. ... just my thoughts.
rc-zombies: you've got mail.
rc-zombies: you've got mail.
08-31-2001, 08:37 PM
#48
Pro3 Gearing for Stock...
Hey guys, wondering if any of you would mind sharing your thoughts on how to gear the Pro3...
Currently I am running the box gearing, which seems to have no punch out of the corners, but I seem to have good top end, but the track I run at is really a tight track...
I have read the following setups, but was just looking for some more opinions...
108/40
108/41
110/38
110/41
Of course all 64p...
Thanks in advance!
Currently I am running the box gearing, which seems to have no punch out of the corners, but I seem to have good top end, but the track I run at is really a tight track...
I have read the following setups, but was just looking for some more opinions...
108/40
108/41
110/38
110/41
Of course all 64p...
Thanks in advance!
08-31-2001, 10:40 PM
#49
Regional Moderator
rc-zombies: got your mail bro! 
read it and replied back.
read it and replied back.
08-31-2001, 10:55 PM
#50
For my stock P2K Pro motor, I gear using a 106/35 or 112/37, works good for me.
09-01-2001, 07:47 PM
#51
Regional Moderator
TigeRyan: try looking for a spur to pinion gear ratio between 2.8-3. thats what i use and its fine for me. but it all really depends on the track you're in. if you're saying that you dont get any punch out of the corners, then try going a tooth down from your present pinion. if still not enuff, then one down again. basically if you want more low end torque you have to gear down and if your want more top end speed, then gear up. just take it a tooth at a time and you should find the reight gearing evenutally.
09-01-2001, 07:49 PM
#52
Regional Moderator
rc-zombies: have you read the reply email i sent you? i hope you do before you get the stuff. hope to hear from you soon. btw, paypal isnt accredited in the phils. i tried inquiring already.
09-01-2001, 08:13 PM
#53
fAfA - be patient, he only has access at work, which is on weekdays.
09-02-2001, 05:06 PM
#54
Tech Rookie
Hi guys, just one simple question? Can my first generation RS4 still be competetive? Its a HPI Pro1. >>> single belt driven.
09-05-2001, 11:51 AM
#56
The setup that is linked below was used on a medium to high bite track. It generated alot of traction where other cars did not.
Link to setup (PDF Format)
The suspension spacing was done to move the weight of the car back to the rear tires. It helped the car come off the turn alot and didn't really effect the steering to much, just made the car faster. The track was kind of bumpy so if your's is not you might want to lower the ride height though the car seems to generate more traction the higher it sets. Also if you lower the car you might want to shorten the shocks a bit.
Down at MSA in Crossville, TN. I ran a similar setup to this. But lowered it. I think I shortened the shocks to 65 in the front and 65.5 in the rear and ran 5.5mm in ride height all around. Car's setup there felt good in the main but it took me a while to get it there. (I had the wrong tires all day, booo).
Another thing if you want to generate a bit more traction going into the turn and in the middle is move the camber link to A4 positions. However I thought it took away some steering comming out and that's where I like it so that's why it's in A2.
I still got my Pro3 but I'm currently wrenching on a XXX-S I have. But I remember most things about the car so if you have any questions about why I did somehing I will be happy to try to help out.
Good luck.
Link to setup (PDF Format)
The suspension spacing was done to move the weight of the car back to the rear tires. It helped the car come off the turn alot and didn't really effect the steering to much, just made the car faster. The track was kind of bumpy so if your's is not you might want to lower the ride height though the car seems to generate more traction the higher it sets. Also if you lower the car you might want to shorten the shocks a bit.
Down at MSA in Crossville, TN. I ran a similar setup to this. But lowered it. I think I shortened the shocks to 65 in the front and 65.5 in the rear and ran 5.5mm in ride height all around. Car's setup there felt good in the main but it took me a while to get it there. (I had the wrong tires all day, booo).
Another thing if you want to generate a bit more traction going into the turn and in the middle is move the camber link to A4 positions. However I thought it took away some steering comming out and that's where I like it so that's why it's in A2.
I still got my Pro3 but I'm currently wrenching on a XXX-S I have. But I remember most things about the car so if you have any questions about why I did somehing I will be happy to try to help out.
Good luck.
09-05-2001, 01:53 PM
#57
MOLDED GRAPHITE CHASSIS
Just got my HPI molded graphite chassis today... yea! 
All I can say is: it's very rigid and light... about 0.50 onces lighter than stock.. can't wait to install it tonight. I was able to get 3...
1 I will sell on ebay later this week along with other items like the purple shock collar nuts and notched hinge pin set.
Now I can't wait for the all Blue aluminum parts to arrive from Japan...
All I can say is: it's very rigid and light... about 0.50 onces lighter than stock.. can't wait to install it tonight. I was able to get 3...
1 I will sell on ebay later this week along with other items like the purple shock collar nuts and notched hinge pin set.
Now I can't wait for the all Blue aluminum parts to arrive from Japan...
09-05-2001, 02:33 PM
#58
Gold27: It really depends on where you're racing and who you're racing against. Last winter, or rather, at about this time last year I was just getting into sedan racing and the first car I picked up was a used RS4 Pro. I enjoyed driving it immensely, but I had two major problems that made things difficult.
First, the car has a ton of flex in it and would get tweaked really easily. A hard hit into the walls and I was likely to be pulling to one side or the other for the entire race.
Second, the pinion/spur options are severely limited. Because of the way the motor is mounted, I could not move it too far down or it would be sticking out the bottom of the chassis, and dragging. Similarly, if I moved it too high up, the roll center in the car would be way out of whack and the handling would be gone.
Plus, I hate saddle packs.
Still, I could do OK with the car. Once I got it set up enough that it came down to my driving, it became a question of my skill rather than the old car. Plus, it's solid as a rock as far as parts. I never once broke an arm, a carrier, or anything else really to speak of. My car was mainly stock, with the addition of a one-way diff in the front and titanium turnbuckles.
So if that's what you got, then by all means, take it racing until you're confident enough that it's worth upgrading. Then get something newer like a XXX-S or a Pro 3...
First, the car has a ton of flex in it and would get tweaked really easily. A hard hit into the walls and I was likely to be pulling to one side or the other for the entire race.
Second, the pinion/spur options are severely limited. Because of the way the motor is mounted, I could not move it too far down or it would be sticking out the bottom of the chassis, and dragging. Similarly, if I moved it too high up, the roll center in the car would be way out of whack and the handling would be gone.
Plus, I hate saddle packs.
Still, I could do OK with the car. Once I got it set up enough that it came down to my driving, it became a question of my skill rather than the old car. Plus, it's solid as a rock as far as parts. I never once broke an arm, a carrier, or anything else really to speak of. My car was mainly stock, with the addition of a one-way diff in the front and titanium turnbuckles.
So if that's what you got, then by all means, take it racing until you're confident enough that it's worth upgrading. Then get something newer like a XXX-S or a Pro 3...
09-05-2001, 05:31 PM
#59
Is anyone else a little irritated with the lack of "enhancement" parts available in the US from HPI (ex. spur adapter)
The car has been out forever, but these parts are only available in Asia. Why market a car heavily in the US, but don't support it with race gear. ( not just pretty purple CVD's that bend way too easy, or purple hardware)
Any thoughts?
P.S. I have been running a Pro 3 ever since they came out, so I am not bashing it, but it needs some support...
The car has been out forever, but these parts are only available in Asia. Why market a car heavily in the US, but don't support it with race gear. ( not just pretty purple CVD's that bend way too easy, or purple hardware)
Any thoughts?
P.S. I have been running a Pro 3 ever since they came out, so I am not bashing it, but it needs some support...
09-05-2001, 06:06 PM
#60
Give the tech support a call at HPI and let them know how you feel. If you want cool blue aluminum bits and other accessories you can order them from many hobby shops in Japan, Hong Kong and even some in Canada. Create a thread on the board and I'm sure you will find a place that people know carrying all the parts showing on HPI's Japan website.