New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
#1968
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Hi, looking for a little clarification on the suspension blocks, sorry if it has been ocvered previously...
I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.
I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?
Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?
I hope that all makes sense!
Thanks in advance
Chris
I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.
I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?
Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?
I hope that all makes sense!
Thanks in advance
Chris
#1969
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
Hi, looking for a little clarification on the suspension blocks, sorry if it has been ocvered previously...
I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.
I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?
Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?
I hope that all makes sense!
Thanks in advance
Chris
I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.
I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?
Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?
I hope that all makes sense!
Thanks in advance
Chris
46.4 + 42 = 3d rear toe
45.7 + 42 = 2.5 Rear toe
If you use teh 41.3 RF block, then you would need to use a smaller block to acheive the same toe as with the 42 block. Eg. 46.4 + 41.3 = 3.5d rear toe, but the track width is slightly narrower.
Same applies to the front 42 + 42 is just narrower, and 42 FR and 43.5 FF will give the car -1.5d onboard toe out.
Track width is approx
Front: 184
Rear: depending on were u measure, 182ish
On my car anyway
Hope that Helps,
Antoni
#1970
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Antoni,
Thanks for the answer, its just what i was looking for!
It seems a lot more complicated than it used to be, but i suppose modern TC is all about adjustment!!
Out of interest why are Yokomo offering combination of susp. blocks to alter the trackwidth and not just offer thicker or thinner hexes which, to me, seems simpler - is there a difference in altering trackwidth inboard as opposed to outboard?
Thanks for the answer, its just what i was looking for!
It seems a lot more complicated than it used to be, but i suppose modern TC is all about adjustment!!
Out of interest why are Yokomo offering combination of susp. blocks to alter the trackwidth and not just offer thicker or thinner hexes which, to me, seems simpler - is there a difference in altering trackwidth inboard as opposed to outboard?
#1971
Hi, looking for a little clarification on the suspension blocks, sorry if it has been ocvered previously...
I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.
I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?
Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?
I hope that all makes sense!
Thanks in advance
Chris
I used to own an SD/BD and the choosing of them was made easier in that you had a FF, RR, FR and the either a 1,2 or 3 degree rear toe block.
I am looking at a japanese version of the BD5 manual (i dont own the car) and am a little confused by the 41.1mm or 47mm figures, i understand that these numbers relate to the suspension pin spacing and trackwidth etc, but what additional blocks and combination of blocks would you need to buy to achieve 1, 2 or 3deg rear toe and 0deg front toe?
Out of interest what is the front/rear trackwidth and rear toe when using the kit blocks?
I hope that all makes sense!
Thanks in advance
Chris
With the standard blocks the rear toe is 3,5° (42mm RF and 47,1 RR)
Hoping this help you.
EDIT: oooppss i'm arrived in late
#1972
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
Antoni,
Thanks for the answer, its just what i was looking for!
It seems a lot more complicated than it used to be, but i suppose modern TC is all about adjustment!!
Out of interest why are Yokomo offering combination of susp. blocks to alter the trackwidth and not just offer thicker or thinner hexes which, to me, seems simpler - is there a difference in altering trackwidth inboard as opposed to outboard?
Thanks for the answer, its just what i was looking for!
It seems a lot more complicated than it used to be, but i suppose modern TC is all about adjustment!!
Out of interest why are Yokomo offering combination of susp. blocks to alter the trackwidth and not just offer thicker or thinner hexes which, to me, seems simpler - is there a difference in altering trackwidth inboard as opposed to outboard?
#1973
After some race and test with the BD5W i had this feeling, may be i'm wrong.
With a pretty good setup on a track with low/medium grip conditions the car is fantastic.
Going up with the grip my feeling is to have a car really easy to drive but too much understeering, seems like the rear is "planted" on the track and doesn't follow the corners.
At the moment i'm trying to do some test for to find a solution on what may be is a wrong/not perfect setup but my feeling is with this new chassis (lipo chassis+new upperdeck) the car has sometimes too much rear grip.
What do you think about this and if is never happened to you this feeling?
Thank you
With a pretty good setup on a track with low/medium grip conditions the car is fantastic.
Going up with the grip my feeling is to have a car really easy to drive but too much understeering, seems like the rear is "planted" on the track and doesn't follow the corners.
At the moment i'm trying to do some test for to find a solution on what may be is a wrong/not perfect setup but my feeling is with this new chassis (lipo chassis+new upperdeck) the car has sometimes too much rear grip.
What do you think about this and if is never happened to you this feeling?
Thank you
#1974
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
After some race and test with the BD5W i had this feeling, may be i'm wrong.
With a pretty good setup on a track with low/medium grip conditions the car is fantastic.
Going up with the grip my feeling is to have a car really easy to drive but too much understeering, seems like the rear is "planted" on the track and doesn't follow the corners.
At the moment i'm trying to do some test for to find a solution on what may be is a wrong/not perfect setup but my feeling is with this new chassis (lipo chassis+new upperdeck) the car has sometimes too much rear grip.
What do you think about this and if is never happened to you this feeling?
Thank you
With a pretty good setup on a track with low/medium grip conditions the car is fantastic.
Going up with the grip my feeling is to have a car really easy to drive but too much understeering, seems like the rear is "planted" on the track and doesn't follow the corners.
At the moment i'm trying to do some test for to find a solution on what may be is a wrong/not perfect setup but my feeling is with this new chassis (lipo chassis+new upperdeck) the car has sometimes too much rear grip.
What do you think about this and if is never happened to you this feeling?
Thank you
#1976
While behind i was thinking to go up with 0,1mm of bars (from 1,2 to 1,3mm)
#1978
Tech Adept
altrex
hi, i had same similar problem. was running today on a high traction tarmac track with high temperature. i startet with HPI blue/blue and ended up with HPI pink/silver and a droop of 6/5. the car was very good. i suppose i will find 0,1 or 0,2s but anything more i dont think is possible on the track. i raced against the local guys who are all very fast on their home turf and have like 30000 laps already.
#1979
My/our problem with the BD5W has been (and i think setup was far to be perfect) on fast corners especially on a corner pretty long and fast was impossible give gas in the middle, just with a small amount of gas our cars was going out with a terrible understeer. But in the morning with less grip and low temperatures was pretty ok.
Anyway i'll try to work on the setup, feeling is to have a car really stable with a lot of rear grip so trying to have a rear a little bit more "slippery" can help.
Thank you all for your suggestions