New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
09-17-2009, 02:43 AM
#1036
09-17-2009, 07:53 AM
#1037
I think Martin said that the new chassis is for stick packs, not lipos. Use the standard chassis for lipos. I would have to agree. One of the new top decks comes with upgraded servo mount and center brace that provides side support for lipo packs. So I would use that. Also, the new stick pack chassis is wider than the standard chassis. I wouldn't say that's a performance upgrade.
I notice how the 416X moves the motor 1mm closer to center. The BD5 already has this. I noticed this when I first got the BD5 and comparing it to my old 416.
I tried 4.0 and lipo a month or two ago....
That's just crazy! Make sure you turn your throttle expo to like -50% or -70%. The torque is just insane!
I notice how the 416X moves the motor 1mm closer to center. The BD5 already has this. I noticed this when I first got the BD5 and comparing it to my old 416.
I tried 4.0 and lipo a month or two ago....
That's just crazy! Make sure you turn your throttle expo to like -50% or -70%. The torque is just insane!
elwyn: of the two new upper decks, is one thicker than the other? i notice one has more material than the other so that would obviously add stiffness as well.
09-17-2009, 01:11 PM
#1038
i was under the impression that the chassis had lipos in mind. .... i guess not. in any case, i do run the stock chassis anyways with my lipos. and yes, 4.0 with a lipo is really overkill. i run mod myself mostly and find a 4.5 to be ideal especially at our local track. as mentioned the car is great with the stock chassis and upper deck .... dont really have problems keeping the packs in place coz i have those steel battery slot inserts that you stick to the bottom of the pack with double sided tape to secure the pack in place. works like a charm ...
elwyn: of the two new upper decks, is one thicker than the other? i notice one has more material than the other so that would obviously add stiffness as well.
elwyn: of the two new upper decks, is one thicker than the other? i notice one has more material than the other so that would obviously add stiffness as well.
Both the new upper deck is the same as the thickness and material, only difference is one come with aluminium parts to support the lipo, for not letting the lipo moved in to the center of the chassis. And the another doesn't come with the aluminium parts.
09-17-2009, 05:45 PM
#1039
Elwyn: thanks for the feedback. if thats the case and they're the same thickness, then it's likely too stiff (as Martin pointed out) and would likely be better i'll stick with the stock upperdeck since i run purely rubber/asphalt.
Martin: i know you've mentioned you have limited experience running LiPo, but from the little you know as of now, would the stock chassis and upper deck still be the best option for rubber/asphalt?
Martin: i know you've mentioned you have limited experience running LiPo, but from the little you know as of now, would the stock chassis and upper deck still be the best option for rubber/asphalt?
09-17-2009, 08:28 PM
#1041
Yeah, I think LiFe is better for mod because it has less voltage (6.6v vs 7.4v) and LiFe packs are much more durable.
09-17-2009, 11:03 PM
#1043
The new bulkhead caps mainly make the car more reactive
but they reduce midcorner steering and as my car always is very agressive I don't use them
if you want to use them use short up front. If you have problems with overheating rear tires use it in the rear too hut then mount the camberlink in the outside hole on the rearhub
I think standard chassi needs standard topdeck as I mentioned
when using the new 42mm front suspension mounts add 0.5mm on the hex as you don't want the cars overall width to change but just move the wishbone further inward
this makes the car roll more and gives slightly more steering into hairpins but reduces steering around sweepers and costs some reactivity
I'm testing both life and lipo
will be able to say more in 2 weeks
btw there's a very neat way to have the batt wires go through the car
I see if I can post up some pics
I'll post up a basic carpet setup later today
but they reduce midcorner steering and as my car always is very agressive I don't use them
if you want to use them use short up front. If you have problems with overheating rear tires use it in the rear too hut then mount the camberlink in the outside hole on the rearhub
I think standard chassi needs standard topdeck as I mentioned
when using the new 42mm front suspension mounts add 0.5mm on the hex as you don't want the cars overall width to change but just move the wishbone further inward
this makes the car roll more and gives slightly more steering into hairpins but reduces steering around sweepers and costs some reactivity
I'm testing both life and lipo
will be able to say more in 2 weeks
btw there's a very neat way to have the batt wires go through the car
I see if I can post up some pics
I'll post up a basic carpet setup later today
09-17-2009, 11:38 PM
#1044
The new bulkhead caps mainly make the car more reactive
but they reduce midcorner steering and as my car always is very agressive I don't use them
if you want to use them use short up front. If you have problems with overheating rear tires use it in the rear too hut then mount the camberlink in the outside hole on the rearhub
I think standard chassi needs standard topdeck as I mentioned
when using the new 42mm front suspension mounts add 0.5mm on the hex as you don't want the cars overall width to change but just move the wishbone further inward
this makes the car roll more and gives slightly more steering into hairpins but reduces steering around sweepers and costs some reactivity
I'm testing both life and lipo
will be able to say more in 2 weeks
btw there's a very neat way to have the batt wires go through the car
I see if I can post up some pics
I'll post up a basic carpet setup later today
but they reduce midcorner steering and as my car always is very agressive I don't use them
if you want to use them use short up front. If you have problems with overheating rear tires use it in the rear too hut then mount the camberlink in the outside hole on the rearhub
I think standard chassi needs standard topdeck as I mentioned
when using the new 42mm front suspension mounts add 0.5mm on the hex as you don't want the cars overall width to change but just move the wishbone further inward
this makes the car roll more and gives slightly more steering into hairpins but reduces steering around sweepers and costs some reactivity
I'm testing both life and lipo
will be able to say more in 2 weeks
btw there's a very neat way to have the batt wires go through the car
I see if I can post up some pics
I'll post up a basic carpet setup later today
thanks
09-18-2009, 01:52 AM
#1045
the difference between the 8 and 10mm plate is very very minimal
42: tight, low-medium traction asphalt tracks with a lot of hairpins (0.5mm against the front hex!)
43.5: on tracks with high traction, flowing layout, fast direction changes, or proper tires
42: tight, low-medium traction asphalt tracks with a lot of hairpins (0.5mm against the front hex!)
43.5: on tracks with high traction, flowing layout, fast direction changes, or proper tires
09-21-2009, 10:16 PM
#1046
Thanks Elwyn for the shipment! Thanks for the keychain, what's it for? 
Ball cup wrench?
Well I'm installing the new topdeck with lipo supports. Nice concept, however I see an issue already.
First, the new rear bulkhead support limits gearing even more than before. With a 95 yok spur the largest pinion you can fit is a 42. This gives you a 4.52 final. Not an issue if you run mod. However, in 17.5 or similar, this can be limiting on large tracks. I do have an 87 spur, but I have to ream a hole in it for motor screw access.
Second, the new rear bulkhead support limits access to the front motor screw. So now you have limited access to both motor screws. The rear, because of the spur (not a problem if you run yok/xenon spurs with the hole reamed out). And the front motor screw, because the new bulkhead support blocks access to the motor screw. You can use the ball end allen wrench that the BD5 kit came with, but it will be hard to get the screw nice and tight.
The topdeck is thicker and stiffer as reported. But it does allow access to lipos that use bullet connectors.
I'll take pics later.
Also, the aluminum diff is still holding out. I ran in a dirty parking lot. Lots of dirt collected on the outdrives after each run. Had me worried. But they are still fine. Very minimal wear. Even the aluminum bones are holding out very good. Make sure to keep those lubed up every other run as well. Proper maintenance is key to very low wear.
Ball cup wrench?Well I'm installing the new topdeck with lipo supports. Nice concept, however I see an issue already.
First, the new rear bulkhead support limits gearing even more than before. With a 95 yok spur the largest pinion you can fit is a 42. This gives you a 4.52 final. Not an issue if you run mod. However, in 17.5 or similar, this can be limiting on large tracks. I do have an 87 spur, but I have to ream a hole in it for motor screw access.
Second, the new rear bulkhead support limits access to the front motor screw. So now you have limited access to both motor screws. The rear, because of the spur (not a problem if you run yok/xenon spurs with the hole reamed out). And the front motor screw, because the new bulkhead support blocks access to the motor screw. You can use the ball end allen wrench that the BD5 kit came with, but it will be hard to get the screw nice and tight.
The topdeck is thicker and stiffer as reported. But it does allow access to lipos that use bullet connectors.
I'll take pics later.
Also, the aluminum diff is still holding out. I ran in a dirty parking lot. Lots of dirt collected on the outdrives after each run. Had me worried. But they are still fine. Very minimal wear. Even the aluminum bones are holding out very good. Make sure to keep those lubed up every other run as well. Proper maintenance is key to very low wear.
09-24-2009, 02:48 AM
#1047
09-24-2009, 04:09 PM
#1048
I'll try and get pics up later on of the lipo supports. Just been busy with college homework and tired from work. Haven't touched the car since.
09-24-2009, 11:50 PM
#1050
1. I set all my diffs and spool to high position (spool belt tension set to loosest high position).
2. I run Pink springs all around.
3. I run R5.7 rear block.
4. I run 1mm under inner rear camber link.
5. I run 1mm under front rear block for antidive.
6. I run 2mm on center link.
7. Camber angles; -2 degree front and -1.5 rear.
8. 0.5mm bump steer shim.
9. 0.5mm wheel shim in the rear so 5mm hex plus 0.5mm shim = 5.5mm.
10. Front and rear shocks in position 3.
11. Rear arm spacing. 1.5mm front rear. 2.5mm rear rear.
12. Droop. I don't measure like you, but it would be close to 6.5mm front and 5.5mm rear. I do middle of outter hingepin height.
Everything else is the same except I don't run sway bars and I have 1.0mm pistons (kit). If you have 42mm front suspension mounts and 3.5mm upper bulkhead caps, I would switch to those. I just did, but haven't raced the car yet with the new stuff.