Originally Posted by ddd2k
Martin, what droop do you set up your BD5? I tried all kind of droop and most of the time my car is 3 wheeling on turns...do you have your own setup sheet for carpet that I can reference as my starting point?
6 front 5 rear always
Originally Posted by zamrioo2
martin... what is the best way to setup a car on setup tools and ride height, is it full of weight include lipo with balance right n left...? before, i do practice just have eletronics but no lipo...
Originally Posted by ddd2k
@ zamrioo2, it's best to have everything in the car as if its ready to go....lipo battery, speedo, transponder, etc...
What I do after EVERY Run is:
-Take off tires, clean them, put them aside
-Remove battery and batt-tape
-put the car on a Glassplate (I do have a glas setupboard which is abslutely necessary for proper car setup) untighten topdeck screws and make sure it's absolutely flat, if the rearend of the car is higher and won't go down onto the glassplate your chassi is broken and you do best to order a new one!
-tighten topdeckscrews and put the car on Droop blocks (Hudy in my case) and set the droop with shocks connected to 6 front, 5 rear. Sometimes I use 6.2/5 if traction is high
-After that I insert battery tape, put on the tires after I have reglued them, put a battery (just for setup) in the car and setup rideheight as following:
*set rideheight on one side of the car then take a calliper and make sure the spring tension is the same left and right ( on the bd5 it's usually something between 2.6mm and 3.0mmin front, depending on tires), do the same on the opposite side of the car.
NOTE: If the rideheight is not the same left and right after /during this process, don'T worry, that will be corrected in the next step
* now take a 2mm screwdriver, insert it into the middle screws that holds the bumper (front) or place it in the middle of the chassi (under the rib in the rear suspension block) and lift the car up so that the wheels just leave the ground.
As you have already made sure tweak, droop and spring tension are exavtly the same, the only part left is the shocktowers which tend to move on the upper bulkheads if you hit a curbing or anything hard (freshly built shocks required!).
So now if the tires won't lift off exactly the same the shocktower on the opposite side of the car is twisted. You will actually see the shocktower fall back into place as soon as you untighten the screws holding it. If you have straightened it, lift the car up again and you will find the tires to lift off equally.
Do the same on the opposite side of the car.
* With this process you get several advantages:
1, your car is always tweakfree and the wheelload is equal left and right
2, it is much more sensitive than a tweakboard ever could be
3, you actually see "where" your car is tweaked (part and wether it is the front or the rear!) which makes fixing the issue much easier
back to setup process:
- setting the camber. I use 1.5° front and 2° rear 99% of times as for me it just feels best. I set the Camber (just like pretty much any good driver) with a Camber Gauge (one like the RPM for example) as a Setup System like the Hudy is INCORRECT! The values you get from that do not match the actuall camber angle with tires on. This is absolutely important to know!! The only thing the hudy system is really usefull for is to check toe-out up front, but that I do with a calliper as it's the faster way
Having set the camber you can remove the "setup battery" and do your addative.
The whole process takes about 5-10 minutes, sometimes it goes even faster if you have not hit anything during your run.
But it's 5minutes a run absolutely worth it as you will always have a car driving properly.
Hope that helps a bit.