80LikesTamiya F201
05-16-2016, 01:52 PM
#616
Awesome guys! Keep this thread alive!
Unfortunately I couldn't help with your questions. Make sure you don't forget to post some pics of your cars!
For your lightweight options check my conversion for a 1/12 size 2s lipo some pages before. I also use a 1/12 size steering servo to shave off some more weight.
Unfortunately I couldn't help with your questions. Make sure you don't forget to post some pics of your cars!
For your lightweight options check my conversion for a 1/12 size 2s lipo some pages before. I also use a 1/12 size steering servo to shave off some more weight.
05-16-2016, 02:25 PM
#617
Hi WTCC,
It was actually your posting that inspired me to build my F201. I saw a stock one that had been thrashed and thought it was a neat design so I looked up this thread and read through it.
I am basically building a chassis very similar to yours.
Your work is excellent!
It was actually your posting that inspired me to build my F201. I saw a stock one that had been thrashed and thought it was a neat design so I looked up this thread and read through it.
I am basically building a chassis very similar to yours.
Your work is excellent!
05-25-2016, 11:08 PM
#618
Tech Initiate
F201 RWD Custom Build
Like others have stated on this thread before me, the F201 is definitely an underrated chassis in terms of engineering and realism. It's a shame Tamiya didn't follow through with this formula as it definitely has potential.
The 4WD aspect was a bit blasphemous so going RWD was a natural conclusion.
It's wheelbase is far more realistic than the F104, which is bit too short for scale realism. The FGX was much better in this regard, particularly the narrow track. This ofcourse is a bit disadvantageous, so the F201 track is much more manageable.
Below is the new prototype chassis plate design based on the Epson papercraft of the Mercedes. Prototype is made of 3mm lexan to mimmick final carbon fiber plate version. Not nearly as sturdy as carbon so the upper carbon plates help to ensure rigidity where it counts. The front wing plate is a bit bouncy and needs some stiffeners. The transparent nature of the lexan makes the wing look suspended in a realistic way however.
Inspired by Tamiya smoke parts
Prototype base plate applied on chassis. Still need to drill holes where the vertical aero fins will screw into the chassis in front of the side pontoons.
Some future projects: F103/F104/FGX Uprights/axle conversion
The front wing is coming along slowly...
The folded photo paper has double-sided tape keeping it together, and using heat from rubbing the paper to create and maintain the curvature. Maybe in a later iteration I'll consider using thin sheet aluminum, but either way a single crash would probably ruin it. I'm considering using the lexan underplate cut in the shape of a large T to act as the main bumper and apply the aluminum front wing with screws but not place it as far forward that it would be the leading edge.
It's a waste being relegated to a shelf queen so the prototype chassis really is meant to be thrashed. As mentioned, this car is both a beauty to look at and tinker with. Once I complete the front wing and make the carbon version of the chassis it may end up as a shelf queen again!
The 4WD aspect was a bit blasphemous so going RWD was a natural conclusion.
It's wheelbase is far more realistic than the F104, which is bit too short for scale realism. The FGX was much better in this regard, particularly the narrow track. This ofcourse is a bit disadvantageous, so the F201 track is much more manageable.
Below is the new prototype chassis plate design based on the Epson papercraft of the Mercedes. Prototype is made of 3mm lexan to mimmick final carbon fiber plate version. Not nearly as sturdy as carbon so the upper carbon plates help to ensure rigidity where it counts. The front wing plate is a bit bouncy and needs some stiffeners. The transparent nature of the lexan makes the wing look suspended in a realistic way however.
Inspired by Tamiya smoke parts
Prototype base plate applied on chassis. Still need to drill holes where the vertical aero fins will screw into the chassis in front of the side pontoons.
Some future projects: F103/F104/FGX Uprights/axle conversion
The front wing is coming along slowly...
The folded photo paper has double-sided tape keeping it together, and using heat from rubbing the paper to create and maintain the curvature. Maybe in a later iteration I'll consider using thin sheet aluminum, but either way a single crash would probably ruin it. I'm considering using the lexan underplate cut in the shape of a large T to act as the main bumper and apply the aluminum front wing with screws but not place it as far forward that it would be the leading edge.
It's a waste being relegated to a shelf queen so the prototype chassis really is meant to be thrashed. As mentioned, this car is both a beauty to look at and tinker with. Once I complete the front wing and make the carbon version of the chassis it may end up as a shelf queen again!
Last edited by tamiya4life; 05-26-2016 at 12:08 AM. Reason: more images
05-26-2016, 10:21 AM
#619
Very nice work T4L!
Mine is still a work in progress but getting closer each week.
If you have any leads on blue rockers, can you forward them my way?
Mine is still a work in progress but getting closer each week.
If you have any leads on blue rockers, can you forward them my way?
05-26-2016, 11:25 AM
#620
Just wow
I would be afraid to race with you. One little crash and all friendship is destroyed 
Now, great work! Looking forward to your next post.
I took my F201 to the track today and had a lot of fun. With the original Tamiya tires the car is far from easy to drive, but it is fast on the straight (10.5t)
The corners were quite a challenge as the car tends to oversteer.
My guess is that the rear diff is locked to strong. I tried to loosen the screw to open it up a bit, but had no success. It is either tight or open
A friend said that this is normal for old Tamiya diffs... I need to look a this.
This problem cost a lot of laptime as the tires does too. They just don't have enough traction. Otherwise the car would easily match the speed of touring cars.
On track I could forget everything just by watching the car drive
Here some pictures:
Michael Schumacher leaving the pits.
Nearly 15 years between them (Xray F1'16 in front).
I forgot to mention how nice the shocks work on this car! Going over the curbs was no problem at all!
I would be afraid to race with you. One little crash and all friendship is destroyed Now, great work! Looking forward to your next post.I took my F201 to the track today and had a lot of fun. With the original Tamiya tires the car is far from easy to drive, but it is fast on the straight (10.5t)
The corners were quite a challenge as the car tends to oversteer.
My guess is that the rear diff is locked to strong. I tried to loosen the screw to open it up a bit, but had no success. It is either tight or open
A friend said that this is normal for old Tamiya diffs... I need to look a this.
This problem cost a lot of laptime as the tires does too. They just don't have enough traction. Otherwise the car would easily match the speed of touring cars.
On track I could forget everything just by watching the car drive
Here some pictures:
Michael Schumacher leaving the pits.
Nearly 15 years between them (Xray F1'16 in front).
I forgot to mention how nice the shocks work on this car! Going over the curbs was no problem at all!
05-26-2016, 02:55 PM
#622
Thanks for the compliments
On the body question:
I have tried the 2009 Tamiya body once to check how it would fit and was dissappointed by the result. Because of the shock layout the F201 has a wider nose than a normal F1. Additionally the chassis is longer, resulting in a strange look with an "ok" front and a not covered rear end. Another problem that can occur is, that the battery layout will not match the body width.
I would suggest you "borrow" a body from a rc-friend at the track and put on your chassis.
While the actual modern bodies will not fit (my experience) maybe bodies for F103 chassis maybe could do the job...
On the body question:
I have tried the 2009 Tamiya body once to check how it would fit and was dissappointed by the result. Because of the shock layout the F201 has a wider nose than a normal F1. Additionally the chassis is longer, resulting in a strange look with an "ok" front and a not covered rear end. Another problem that can occur is, that the battery layout will not match the body width.
I would suggest you "borrow" a body from a rc-friend at the track and put on your chassis.
While the actual modern bodies will not fit (my experience) maybe bodies for F103 chassis maybe could do the job...
05-26-2016, 03:50 PM
#624
Like others have stated on this thread before me, the F201 is definitely an underrated chassis in terms of engineering and realism. It's a shame Tamiya didn't follow through with this formula as it definitely has potential.
The 4WD aspect was a bit blasphemous so going RWD was a natural conclusion.
It's wheelbase is far more realistic than the F104, which is bit too short for scale realism. The FGX was much better in this regard, particularly the narrow track. This ofcourse is a bit disadvantageous, so the F201 track is much more manageable.
The 4WD aspect was a bit blasphemous so going RWD was a natural conclusion.
It's wheelbase is far more realistic than the F104, which is bit too short for scale realism. The FGX was much better in this regard, particularly the narrow track. This ofcourse is a bit disadvantageous, so the F201 track is much more manageable.
05-26-2016, 09:28 PM
#625
Sweet project, my F201 is collecting dust, been meaning to get it running again.
05-26-2016, 11:40 PM
#627
I sold my f201 for $50. This makes me miss it a lot. 
05-27-2016, 12:02 AM
#628
Tech Initiate
FGX Body fits rather nicely on the F201 provided you're using a shorty pack or 1/12, 1/14, 1/16 sized battery.
Same with protoform fourteen body. Problem though is that the body is a bit too low profile, the side pods are shallow. Also notice that the track has been made narrow both in the back and front. The rears are the aluminum arms but even with the tamiya plastic A arms the track can be made quite narrow. As for the front, this was a temporary rigging of the fgx plastic front suspension because I really like the realism of the FGX arms. They're totally worthless though and break super easily. The IFS system they have seems more sturdy.
The track is almost as narrow as F104, slightly wider than the F2012 front wing.
My trick for increasing realism. Don't cut away the body for the suspension arms. Only cut the necessary slit to allow the arm to slide in. Cut only one side up vertically, then horizontally a box, then cut a bit deeper in horizontally on the bottom side of the slot of the arm. This allows you to create a flap you can pull back just enough to let the arms through, while preventing air from seeping into the chassis from the openings.
Note: these ebay Mclaren stickers are junk! Unless you paint the body black, the white text is more like gray on gunmetal. The red is not even fluorescent, as compared to the fluorescence of the Tamiya Mp4/24 decal which I cut and applied over.
Time for size ZERO:
Mclaren Mp4/24 Side pods sacrificed
But turned out not too bad...
Sexy size zero really needs a good wing and diffuser set up. FGX Wing is a bit tall so the base of the wing mount needs to be shaved off about 4mm
Wing needs a reinforcement otherwise it's like a mast on the Mayflower.
Stealth Mode. Daughter had some neat orange/green reflective origami so I borrowed some. The body is cut in such a way that it still fits with the 4WD system reinstalled. If competing in an "elite" f201 cool guy only series, I would go back to 4wd if everyone else is
Or everyone go 2wd and we race some FGXs and see where we're at!
The difference between Tamiya IFS and FGX kingpin/coil spring. Tamiya IFS suspension keeps the wheels planted, but the chassis bounces alot as evident in how much the front wing of mine wobbles (granted its not as sturdy as a single piece wing). The FGX is far more rigid however the tires end up bouncing and skipping laterally. I feel the Tamiya IFS is sturdier and precise due to the added weight. FGX has the weighted metal front adapter for a little bit more traction but feels lighter and quicker. The plate using the Tamiya A arms have a set of holes that are placed close together and a bit forward than the actual Tamiya F201 hole placement, which I also have. This way the F201 front arms can achieve the narrow track of the F104 and FGX and have the sleek extended wheelbase of the FGX.
Toying around with F201 rear plastic arms in place of FGX suspension arms. The Exotek aluminum rocker mounts and black aluminum rockers (can't remember from where) along with the 35g front suspension block is probably enough weight to provide grip. The massive F201 hubs are nice and kind of look like the real thing, but it forces the arms to be distanced vertically . With the A arm mods to use F104/FGX uprights(with the IFS) should let me get the look that Mclaren has this year with their upper and lower front A arms very close together. Unfortunately I ran out of parts unless I cannibalize a F104 or Group C chassis that I have with FGX uprights so that it can use Hex wheels.
Same with protoform fourteen body. Problem though is that the body is a bit too low profile, the side pods are shallow. Also notice that the track has been made narrow both in the back and front. The rears are the aluminum arms but even with the tamiya plastic A arms the track can be made quite narrow. As for the front, this was a temporary rigging of the fgx plastic front suspension because I really like the realism of the FGX arms. They're totally worthless though and break super easily. The IFS system they have seems more sturdy.
The track is almost as narrow as F104, slightly wider than the F2012 front wing.
My trick for increasing realism. Don't cut away the body for the suspension arms. Only cut the necessary slit to allow the arm to slide in. Cut only one side up vertically, then horizontally a box, then cut a bit deeper in horizontally on the bottom side of the slot of the arm. This allows you to create a flap you can pull back just enough to let the arms through, while preventing air from seeping into the chassis from the openings.
Note: these ebay Mclaren stickers are junk! Unless you paint the body black, the white text is more like gray on gunmetal. The red is not even fluorescent, as compared to the fluorescence of the Tamiya Mp4/24 decal which I cut and applied over.
Time for size ZERO:
Mclaren Mp4/24 Side pods sacrificed
But turned out not too bad...
Sexy size zero really needs a good wing and diffuser set up. FGX Wing is a bit tall so the base of the wing mount needs to be shaved off about 4mm
Wing needs a reinforcement otherwise it's like a mast on the Mayflower.
Stealth Mode. Daughter had some neat orange/green reflective origami so I borrowed some. The body is cut in such a way that it still fits with the 4WD system reinstalled. If competing in an "elite" f201 cool guy only series, I would go back to 4wd if everyone else is
Or everyone go 2wd and we race some FGXs and see where we're at!The difference between Tamiya IFS and FGX kingpin/coil spring. Tamiya IFS suspension keeps the wheels planted, but the chassis bounces alot as evident in how much the front wing of mine wobbles (granted its not as sturdy as a single piece wing). The FGX is far more rigid however the tires end up bouncing and skipping laterally. I feel the Tamiya IFS is sturdier and precise due to the added weight. FGX has the weighted metal front adapter for a little bit more traction but feels lighter and quicker. The plate using the Tamiya A arms have a set of holes that are placed close together and a bit forward than the actual Tamiya F201 hole placement, which I also have. This way the F201 front arms can achieve the narrow track of the F104 and FGX and have the sleek extended wheelbase of the FGX.
Toying around with F201 rear plastic arms in place of FGX suspension arms. The Exotek aluminum rocker mounts and black aluminum rockers (can't remember from where) along with the 35g front suspension block is probably enough weight to provide grip. The massive F201 hubs are nice and kind of look like the real thing, but it forces the arms to be distanced vertically . With the A arm mods to use F104/FGX uprights(with the IFS) should let me get the look that Mclaren has this year with their upper and lower front A arms very close together. Unfortunately I ran out of parts unless I cannibalize a F104 or Group C chassis that I have with FGX uprights so that it can use Hex wheels.
Last edited by tamiya4life; 05-27-2016 at 12:23 AM.
05-27-2016, 02:28 AM
#629
Again wow! Love to see your projects guys
Must stop myself from building a 4wd F1 from an Awesomatix. Lucky that this chassis is very expensive
I checked my diff and found it melted together. A miracle that it worked like it did yesterday Now everything is perfect again. I am just worried about how long the new diff will last...
Must stop myself from building a 4wd F1 from an Awesomatix. Lucky that this chassis is very expensive
I checked my diff and found it melted together. A miracle that it worked like it did yesterday
Now everything is perfect again. I am just worried about how long the new diff will last...
05-27-2016, 06:43 AM
#630
Awesome job to everyone posting and sharing pics.
Looks like there is still life in the F201!
I personally enjoy all the pics and ideas out there and that helps me have ideas for mine.
Question for you guru's: I have found a site that still has the aluminum pillow blocks available. Are the fronts and rear pillow blocks the same or are they (aluminum)different front to back?
Looks like there is still life in the F201!
I personally enjoy all the pics and ideas out there and that helps me have ideas for mine.
Question for you guru's: I have found a site that still has the aluminum pillow blocks available. Are the fronts and rear pillow blocks the same or are they (aluminum)different front to back?