Tamiya F201
#256
In an attempt to get a 'smoother' diff I have now tried the thrust bearing from the Kawada SV10 and the washer/ball arrangement from the Yokomo YR4. No difference......I will now settle for an 'almost' smooth diff!!!
#257
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Mine are reasonably smooth. Its just that with all my sedans, I'm used to holding down the wheels giving it full throttle and not having any slip, but still having perfectly smooth diffs. These diffs are pretty smooth, but when I test them they slip at about mid-throttle. This just doesn't feel right, ya know?
O'well, I'll try cleaning everything, and thread locking or gluing the diff rings in place once I take the car apart again.
O'well, I'll try cleaning everything, and thread locking or gluing the diff rings in place once I take the car apart again.
#258
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Well after looking at the instruction again. I think I see where I might have messed up. The diagram makes it look like you need to grease both sides of the diff rings. I remember that I thought that was odd, but I can't remember if I actually did it anyway. If I did, that would account for why I can't get it to stop slipping. I see that I'm about to end up having to take the diffs out. I hope I don't have to take the whole car apart just to reach them.
#259
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
For a smoother diff gear mesh apply some Pedro's IceWax. It's a dry film lubricant. Same stuff I use on my TC3. I read somewhere Mark Pavidis uses it on his car as well.
If you have extra wheel bearing from you F103. You can use them on the steering post instead of the bushings.
If you have extra wheel bearing from you F103. You can use them on the steering post instead of the bushings.
Last edited by rc-zombies; 05-14-2002 at 11:19 AM.
#260
Where can you get this Pedro's IceWax?
#261
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by Afropussy
Where can you get this Pedro's IceWax?
Where can you get this Pedro's IceWax?
#262
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Man, I just rebuilt both diffs. I cleaned everything, glued the rings, and tightened the diff to the point were I couldn't turn the diff gear no matter what I did. And the results are..........................
.................................................. .................................................. ..
........exactly the same as before! When I hold the front or rear wheels down and give throttle, the diffs still slip at about half throttle with a standard stock motor.
Jezzzzzzzzz.......I'm just going to assume at this point that with all four wheels down, the torque of the motor isn't enough to cause the diffs to slip. So I'll just run it like it is. If the diffs melt, then I'll know something is wrong.
.................................................. .................................................. ..
........exactly the same as before! When I hold the front or rear wheels down and give throttle, the diffs still slip at about half throttle with a standard stock motor.
Jezzzzzzzzz.......I'm just going to assume at this point that with all four wheels down, the torque of the motor isn't enough to cause the diffs to slip. So I'll just run it like it is. If the diffs melt, then I'll know something is wrong.
#263
Darkseid
As long as they don't slip on the track, you should be fine. Go full throttle from a standstill and see if they slip. If not, you're all good!
As long as they don't slip on the track, you should be fine. Go full throttle from a standstill and see if they slip. If not, you're all good!
#264
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
psycho: thats the thing. I noticed that the F201 drive train has almost the same pitch as a slipping diff. Now is that a pain in the @ss or what. I'll have to get down close to the car and see what its doing. I'll test it out on some high traction carpet or something and see if I hear or visually notice the diffs slipping.
Heres hoping I don't run the car into my own face or something while I'm checking! LOL!
Heres hoping I don't run the car into my own face or something while I'm checking! LOL!
#265
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Well I just tested out the car on some high traction carpet. The diffs definitely aren't slipping!!! Thank goodness!
The car is shooting off from a dead stop like a bullet.
I'll check it out this weekend and see how it does on the track. But, everything looks good right now.
The car is shooting off from a dead stop like a bullet.
I'll check it out this weekend and see how it does on the track. But, everything looks good right now.
#266
Cool. I'm glad you got it sorted out. Hopefully I get my parts today or tomorrow so I can get mine back together.
#267
There is a way that I use and havent failed me so far on diff rings which arent keyed.
Use rubber cement. Those cement used by shoemender. Or the one you used to prepare your foam donut onto your rim for 1/12 cars. They are the same thing basically.
Apply a very thin layer of glue between the diff ring and outdrive and put them together before the glue dry out. Assemble the diff parts together as according to the manual but do not use excessive force on the adjustment screw. DO NOT ADJUST the diff but let the diff sits overnight to let the glue drys out.
As for the outdrive design, I am not sure if the original design of threading the other half of the outdrive is right but according to my experience the chance of not getting loose screw is rare unless you locktite the screw to the other half of the outdrive.
I will see what I will do to the diff when I start to build the kit.
Use rubber cement. Those cement used by shoemender. Or the one you used to prepare your foam donut onto your rim for 1/12 cars. They are the same thing basically.
Apply a very thin layer of glue between the diff ring and outdrive and put them together before the glue dry out. Assemble the diff parts together as according to the manual but do not use excessive force on the adjustment screw. DO NOT ADJUST the diff but let the diff sits overnight to let the glue drys out.
As for the outdrive design, I am not sure if the original design of threading the other half of the outdrive is right but according to my experience the chance of not getting loose screw is rare unless you locktite the screw to the other half of the outdrive.
I will see what I will do to the diff when I start to build the kit.
#268
Originally posted by Manticore
As for the outdrive design, I am not sure if the original design of threading the other half of the outdrive is right but according to my experience the chance of not getting loose screw is rare unless you locktite the screw to the other half of the outdrive.
I will see what I will do to the diff when I start to build the kit.
As for the outdrive design, I am not sure if the original design of threading the other half of the outdrive is right but according to my experience the chance of not getting loose screw is rare unless you locktite the screw to the other half of the outdrive.
I will see what I will do to the diff when I start to build the kit.
The diffs are actually OK smooth. Maybe I'm just being a perfectionist!! What I mean is that when I hold the outdrivers and 'slowly' turn them I can feel a 'slight' notching as the balls rotate. When it is in the car and turning the wheels, I have not doubt things will appear very smooth!!
The grease on the backside of the plates did not really work for me. It made things even worse. In other designs that I have seen which do use grease on the backside, the outdrivers have always had a groove cutout...none on the F201!!
stick those plates down....by fair means for foul!!! It made a hell of a big difference in terms of how loose you can go before it started slipping!!!!!
#269
Originally posted by dtm
I now recall that the first time I came across the dual screw locking on the diff it was on the Tamiya Dyna Storm....I had no problems with it back then!!
The diffs are actually OK smooth. Maybe I'm just being a perfectionist!! What I mean is that when I hold the outdrivers and 'slowly' turn them I can feel a 'slight' notching as the balls rotate. When it is in the car and turning the wheels, I have not doubt things will appear very smooth!!
The grease on the backside of the plates did not really work for me. It made things even worse. In other designs that I have seen which do use grease on the backside, the outdrivers have always had a groove cutout...none on the F201!!
stick those plates down....by fair means for foul!!! It made a hell of a big difference in terms of how loose you can go before it started slipping!!!!!
I now recall that the first time I came across the dual screw locking on the diff it was on the Tamiya Dyna Storm....I had no problems with it back then!!
The diffs are actually OK smooth. Maybe I'm just being a perfectionist!! What I mean is that when I hold the outdrivers and 'slowly' turn them I can feel a 'slight' notching as the balls rotate. When it is in the car and turning the wheels, I have not doubt things will appear very smooth!!
The grease on the backside of the plates did not really work for me. It made things even worse. In other designs that I have seen which do use grease on the backside, the outdrivers have always had a groove cutout...none on the F201!!
stick those plates down....by fair means for foul!!! It made a hell of a big difference in terms of how loose you can go before it started slipping!!!!!
#270
Originally posted by Manticore
Tell me how it works before I start to build the kit !
Tell me how it works before I start to build the kit !