Tekin RS/RS PRO on 1s Lipo Q&A
06-02-2009, 09:30 PM
#166
Coming from the SPX on profile 6, I rolled at 90mm on this track. #6 does not have that crazy motor map like 7 & 8. I have not found LRP's advanced timing to work very well on 4 cells let alone on 1c. After hearing rave reviews from the Tekin camp, here I am! 
I have another car set up to run heads up against that still has the LRP equipment in it with some past knowledge to base against. I am hopeful with the 1c cut off option, the boost range, I am hoping to surpass the other car by a fair margin. The track wont lie!
As for the NW, I played with the throttle trim some to creep up on the edge of the "throttle on", but it seemed to wash down the drag brake. I could be wrong, but it would seem that if neutral possessed a drag brake value, then I would think that changing trim would not alter it, but it appears that it does. I will know a lot more after hitting the track tomorrow. There should be some laptops set up trackside that I can get a few tweaks from. I'll ease up on NW right away and deal with it.
Can you guys suggest a boost range with a 13.5 Duo set at 0 that I should be at? Instructions say shoot for 30*. I set boost for 25 incase there is some motor timing above 0.
Thanks for the help.
Brian
I have another car set up to run heads up against that still has the LRP equipment in it with some past knowledge to base against. I am hopeful with the 1c cut off option, the boost range, I am hoping to surpass the other car by a fair margin. The track wont lie! As for the NW, I played with the throttle trim some to creep up on the edge of the "throttle on", but it seemed to wash down the drag brake. I could be wrong, but it would seem that if neutral possessed a drag brake value, then I would think that changing trim would not alter it, but it appears that it does. I will know a lot more after hitting the track tomorrow. There should be some laptops set up trackside that I can get a few tweaks from. I'll ease up on NW right away and deal with it.
Can you guys suggest a boost range with a 13.5 Duo set at 0 that I should be at? Instructions say shoot for 30*. I set boost for 25 incase there is some motor timing above 0.
Thanks for the help.
Brian
06-02-2009, 09:41 PM
#167
I have 2 questions that I am trying to clear up. I have Hotwire 3.25 on my PC. I also updated the RS Pro to 198 and everything seems good.
When you set the boost slider in sensered only mode and you have it at 25, is that number in degrees or just a reference number? I am assuming its degrees.
If I am using a Trinity Duo 13.5 set with zero mechanical timing, are we still adding 15 degrees to whatever I set the slider too. Example would be 25 on the slider, zero on the motor, and 15 degrees of "pre read" for 40 degrees, or is it just 25 degrees?
Thanks,
Steve
When you set the boost slider in sensered only mode and you have it at 25, is that number in degrees or just a reference number? I am assuming its degrees.
If I am using a Trinity Duo 13.5 set with zero mechanical timing, are we still adding 15 degrees to whatever I set the slider too. Example would be 25 on the slider, zero on the motor, and 15 degrees of "pre read" for 40 degrees, or is it just 25 degrees?
Thanks,
Steve
06-04-2009, 12:44 AM
#168
Well.....
What a night of racing with the new Tekin RS Pro. Things went very well even though I goofed initially with the motor timing.... what I thought was zero was in fact the 20* spot. Whoops. First run was 0* at the motor, 25 for boost, r/o at 80mm and temp was 138F. Next run was 10* at the motor, 20 for boost, r/o at 80mm and the temp was 160F. For the main, I went back to 0* the motor, back to 25 boost and rolled out a little higher at 82mm and it came off a tick cooler at 131F. The drag brake set at 40 seemed ineffective, but was rather nice at 55. The 3.000v cut off seemed flawless. The neutral width was opened up to 10 from 1 even though I did not feel ill effects of a big dead band on the track. Results for the night were also impressive. TQ for the evening over the all cars, even the 4 cell/13.5 rides by 1/2 a lap. Set fast lap by .05, again over the 4 cell cars. And won the main by a lap! Couldn't have done much better.
As far as testing heads up against my other ride with the LRP SPX.... there was a pretty clear picture that we agreed upon that the Tekin was a stronger package. I will be mounting some more of these speedos real soon. In all fairness, the LRP is an outstanding speedo in the touring car, so this just seems to be a matter of picking your weapon for the battle.
Oh, the prototype MS3 1c lipo t-bar car did pretty good too!
Brian
What a night of racing with the new Tekin RS Pro. Things went very well even though I goofed initially with the motor timing.... what I thought was zero was in fact the 20* spot. Whoops. First run was 0* at the motor, 25 for boost, r/o at 80mm and temp was 138F. Next run was 10* at the motor, 20 for boost, r/o at 80mm and the temp was 160F. For the main, I went back to 0* the motor, back to 25 boost and rolled out a little higher at 82mm and it came off a tick cooler at 131F. The drag brake set at 40 seemed ineffective, but was rather nice at 55. The 3.000v cut off seemed flawless. The neutral width was opened up to 10 from 1 even though I did not feel ill effects of a big dead band on the track. Results for the night were also impressive. TQ for the evening over the all cars, even the 4 cell/13.5 rides by 1/2 a lap. Set fast lap by .05, again over the 4 cell cars. And won the main by a lap! Couldn't have done much better.
As far as testing heads up against my other ride with the LRP SPX.... there was a pretty clear picture that we agreed upon that the Tekin was a stronger package. I will be mounting some more of these speedos real soon. In all fairness, the LRP is an outstanding speedo in the touring car, so this just seems to be a matter of picking your weapon for the battle.
Oh, the prototype MS3 1c lipo t-bar car did pretty good too!
Brian
07-31-2009, 07:03 AM
#169
I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
07-31-2009, 07:50 AM
#170
I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
also, mine does function with just the 1c but i use a receiver battery (5cell)
what happens if you leave the rs switch off and plug a 5cell into the receiver for power?
07-31-2009, 08:10 AM
#171
I have an RS in my DB10R and it will not work with my 1c lipo. I have 198 and have the 1c box checked and fully charged lipo. When I hook uo the batt and turn the car on i get lights 1,2 and 6,7, but when I wiggle the steering a little teh esc arms without the beeps. Then it lights like it is working when I pull the throttle, but the motor is not running. I tried it with a 2c lipo and it works fine. Anybody have any ideas what's up with this?
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
Posted this in the regular RS thread but got no real answer, thought I'd try here.
07-31-2009, 08:27 AM
#173
07-31-2009, 09:34 AM
#175
If you see 1,2 and 6,7 that could be another issue. If the motor connection is poor or the motor itself is bad that could be the problem. Hook up the pan car to another motor and see what happens.
The thing that does get me though is that using the steering servo appears to change something.
The fact that it worked in the other car though leads me to believe there is bad connection on the motor side.
The thing that does get me though is that using the steering servo appears to change something.
The fact that it worked in the other car though leads me to believe there is bad connection on the motor side.
